SKINCARMA-HatMark.jpg

Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

AMPERNA PROBIOTIC SKINCARE AND TWO OF THE BEST ANTI-AGING SERUMS FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
14D94A30-C77B-4C58-AFA4-D4B7AA227B81.JPG

Lots of interesting things went on this week. Orpheus and I headed back to the vet on Friday to have the stitches in his ear removed.

The vet wanted him super calm so she could remove the stitches without having to anesthetize him. So, she gave me a bottle of anti-anxiety meds specifically for cats and boy was he high! Rather than fight getting into the carrier, he just about crawled into it. Where have these meds been for the last dozen years?!

Anyway, all is good with O now and we shouldn’t need to head back for another year or so — when he’s 15, which is approximately 76 in human years. I hope I’m as healthy as he is at that age!

Orpheus wasn’t the only one getting poked and prodded this week. I had my second round of Botox treatments for my migraines. Thirty-two shots over my head, face, jaw, neck and shoulders. Let me tell ya all those needles weren’t exactly comfortable. But, of course, anything is better than a migraine.

As if that poking wasn’t enough, I saw my acupuncturist the next day. More needles! Dr. Mingus always has such cool, interesting insights and advice. I could talk to her for hours as she plunges tiny needles into my body, head to toe.

Knowing how interested I am in understanding my migraines, she recommended a book about the functioning of the brain titled, The Brain’s Way of Healing. Written by Norman Doidge, M.D., a psychiatrist and psychoanalyst, the book explains the concept of neuroplasticity, defined as “the ability of the brain to form and reorganize synaptic connections, especially in response to learning or experience or following injury.”

IMG_0445.JPG

Dr. Doidge describes this wild experiment performed at Bay Area Medical Associates in Sausalito, California. The renowned pain clinic treats people with intractable pain and is “the end of the line for most of the pain patients it treats.” It is, as Michael Moskowitz, director of the clinic, told Dr. Doidge, the place “where people come to die with their pain”.

Moskowitz and his team proved that seemingly simple brain exercises can help to alleviate chronic pain — as I manage with my migraines. Something as simplistic as studying an image of a pain-free brain can help to weaken the hyperactive pain signals that are firing during a migraine attack.

The brain is a fascinating and mysterious thing. I’ve just begun to implement the exercises by printing and hanging the brain images used in the experiment around the apartment. I will keep you posted on my progress…


IMG_4875.jpg

The skincare stuff starts here.

Always vigilant about my health and the health of my skin, in particular, I’m intrigued by how ingredients interact with the skin. And why they do what they do!

Recently, there has been a wave of information about the skin’s microbiome and the use of probiotics in skincare products to restore equilibrium and thus, healthy functioning skin that’s free from sensitivity, acne and redness.

It’s become increasingly clear that understanding and recognizing how the microbiome works is the key to healthy skin.


What is the microbiome?

I found an insightful article on the NIH website simply titled, The Skin Microbiome. This segment is helpful in understanding what the skin’s microbiome is and its role in the health of the skin:

An enhanced understanding of the skin microbiome is necessary to gain insight into microbial involvement in human skin disorders and to enable novel promicrobial and antimicrobial therapeutic approaches for their treatment.

The skin is an ecosystem composed of 1.8 m2 of diverse habitats with an abundance of folds, invaginations and specialized niches that support a wide range of microorganisms. The primary role of the skin is to serve as a physical barrier, protecting our bodies from potential assault by foreign organisms or toxic substances. The skin is also an interface with the outside environment and, as such, is colonized by a diverse collection of microorganisms — including bacteria, fungi and viruses.


In short, the microbiome is composed of both good and bad bacteria. When the balance between the two is right; that is, when the good bacteria are able to act as an effective check on the bad bacteria, the skin is relatively healthy. However, when the bad are out of control, our skin can become sensitive, show signs of irritation and redness — and experience a greater occurrence of acne breakouts.

I first blogged about probiotics in skincare nearly two years ago in my review of the Australia-based brand Amperna titled, Skincare 101: Acne Treatments and Probiotic Skincare. You can catch my video review of the brand, as well, here.

In fact, at the time, Amperna’s probiotic skincare was my first real experience with products formulated with the express purpose of balancing the microbiome.

For a solid understanding of the role probiotics are believed to play in skin health, here’s what the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team have to say: 

Probiotics include various strains of uniquely helpful bacteria that occur naturally on skin and that can be applied via probiotic skincare products. Probiotics work with prebiotics, carbohydrates that serve as a food source so the probiotics can optimally do their job of protecting and nurturing your skin. 

As I said in my original piece, skincare brands like Amperna are blazing the trail — moving the treatment of acne, in particular, from the absurd alcohol attack method to a more holistic approach that uses probiotics to restore balance to the skin’s microbiome.

I first met Kiri Yanchenko through my Skincarma IG page — like so many of my favorite indie brand discoveries. Kiri is Amperna’s incredibly passionate founder — with an inspiring experience all her own.

IMG_3880.jpg

Around 2013, Kiri set out to develop skin care for a “brand committed to creating active products specifically formulated for even the most sensitive skin. My business is inspired by my severe health complications and skin issues.”

Kiri had been going through a trying period in her life with the loss of her dad and stress-related health issues — all of which took a real toll on her health and the health of her skin.

“I finally managed to get my health and skin under control through a combination of diet, mindfulness and exercise and changes to my skincare regime. My belief in holistic skin health started when I was trying to heal; I used an anti-inflammatory diet to get better as well as taking zinc and probiotics. I quit coffee and now only drink tea and water as part of my ongoing anti-inflammatory diet.

“I have always had sensitive skin, and acne prone skin and when I suffered from pustular acne when I was ill, I just couldn’t find anything suitable for my skin. I reacted to everything, so I started doing a whole bunch of research on ingredients and I knew there was something there. I found a topical probiotic in a research journal, tried it myself and knew it was ingredient I was looking for. It matched my belief in the gut, skin, mind axis and after a lot of hard work (5 years of R&D) we launched in 2018.”

How Amperna Works to Enhance Skin Health

Amperna_Probiotics_Infographic.png

The Amperna collection comprises a comprehensive array of products, including one of the best AHA serums for face, the 10% Pro-Resurfacing Lotion. It has a 10% concentration of Glycolic Acid — and is one of the few AHA treatments that my skin seems to tolerate well.

Perhaps the most intriguing product in the Amperna range is the brand’s Probiotic+ DS Soothing Serum. I’ve been a fan of this super-soothing serum for years now and it’s one of the products that I reach for when my forehead is acting sensitive.

Amperna recently introduced two new probiotic-powered anti-aging treatments that I am even more excited about — the Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx and the Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt. One is formulated with the anti-aging powerhouse Retinol, the other with the increasingly popular “Retinol alternative,” Bakuchiol.

Let’s take a look at the anti-aging power pair…


IMG_4870.jpg

Amperna | Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx

I have a love-hate relationship with Retinol — much as do with Glycolic Acid. If I’m not careful, each can throw my skin out of whack. And that’s where balancing probiotics like the complex found in Amperna’s treatments for sensitive skin can make the most difference.

The Amperna Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx is literally one of the best Retinol creams for face that I’ve come across. If your skin is sensitive and you want to incorporate a Retinol treatment into your routine, this is the ideal product for you.

Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx is formulated with a 2% granactive retinoid in the form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR). If you haven’t yet heard of HPR, it’s the newest of the anti-aging powerhouse molecules in the extensive family of retinoids. It’s what’s termed a Retinoic Acid Ester, directly related to retinoic acid — the active ingredient that can bind directly with receptors in our skin cells without having to undergo a conversion by the skin. That’s a lot to say that it’s seriously potent stuff that gets to work to firm skin and help smooth the appearance of wrinkles.


What is Retinol?

Retinol is considered among the best anti-aging ingredients for the skin by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team: 

Name for the entire vitamin A molecule. Retinol is a powerhouse ingredient that has value for skin on several fronts: It’s a skin-restoring, wrinkle-smoothing, firming ingredient and an antioxidant, allowing it to improve a variety of skin concerns, most related to visible signs of aging.

Packaging is a key issue, so any container that lets in air (like jar packaging) or sunlight (clear containers) just won’t cut it. Lots of retinol products come in unacceptable packaging; these should be avoided because the retinol will most likely be (or quickly become) ineffective. Look for opaque, airless, or air-restrictive packaging.

Many consumers are concerned about the percentage of retinol in anti-aging products such as serums or moisturizers. Although the percentage can make a difference (especially if it’s too low), it’s not helpful in understanding how a retinol product will benefit your skin. Far more important is the delivery system, packaging, and the other ingredients present with the retinol. 

Using a product with a range of anti-aging ingredients plus retinol is far more valuable for skin than using a product with only a supposedly high percentage of retinol. Skin needs far more than any one ingredient can provide, however great that one ingredient may be. See our article on this topic for detailed information.


IMG_4851.jpg

The thick Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx serum has a wonderfully silky texture and a faintly medicinal scent that I love.

Surprisingly high up on the INCI is Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, or Azelaic Acid Salt. Azelaic Acid is an unsung skincare superhero that can help gently exfoliate the skin and ameliorate signs of irritation.

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a water-soluble derivative of brightening Azelaic Acid, with hydrating benefits and, more importantly, the ability to reduce redness.

There are several irritation soothers in the Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx formula including Bisabolol, Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract and Allantoin. But the most important and potent of Amperna’s soothing complex is, of course, probiotic Lactococcus Ferment Lysate.

Says Kiri, “We’ve taken our range one step further with our new products. We’ve included our Bio Fermented Oligopeptide. Yeast Ferment Extract and Soy Amino Acids help to stimulate skin renewal, they actively help refine and restore skin texture and radiance safely. They still contain our probiotic complex.”

There’s also an effective amount of brightening, pore-flushing antioxidant Niacinamide at about a 5% concentration — a solid percentage for the multi-beneficial active to work its magic. In addition, there’s bit of Licorice Root Extract which, when combined with the Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid, forms a solid brightening complex.

IMG_4873.jpg

Amperna’s Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx is an excellent Retinol treatment — and more! One of the most well-rounded and best anti-aging serums for sensitive skin — and for all skin types in the market for a reliable anti-aging treatment.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Amperna Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx for $60 ($80AUD) here. For a limited time, enjoy 20% off all Amperna probiotic skincare with code SKINCARMA20.



**SKINCARMA EXCLUSIVE**

FOR A LIMITED TIME, ENJOY 20% OFF ALL AMPERNA PROBIOTIC SKINCARE WITH CODE SKINCARMA20


IMG_4206.jpg
 

** SKINCARMA GIVEAWAY**

Enter to win your choice of the Amperna Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx or Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt ($60 value) — two of the best anti-aging treatments powered by microbiome-balancing probiotics.

Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 09/27/2020.


 

Amperna | Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt

Over the past two years, the “Retinol alternative,” Bakuchiol, has become somewhat of a skincare ingredient superstar. I’d venture to guess it’s because there are quite a number of people who aren’t comfortable with Retinol in any of its forms — me among them. One of the most common reasons for that trepidation is sensitivity. Retinol can very often be sensitizing — even when the user proceeds with caution.

Just the other day, a good friend texted me first thing in the morning, something she rarely does. She had overdone it with a 1% Retinol treatment the night before and woke up with her face on fire. She wasn’t aware that the face cream she was using was going to affect her in that way, having been comfortable using Retinol before. But this particular formula happens to be no joke and, in just one application before bed, caused severe redness, discomfort and peeling by morning.

(If you’re curious, I advised that she do nothing. In cases like this one, it’s best to let your skin relax and repair itself, rather than give it even more to process. I recommended she simply cleanse with a super gentle cleanser and apply a soothing moisturizer — both without actives, fragrance, alcohol or any other potential irritants.)

IMG_1326.jpg

Just about a year ago, I first blogged about Bakuchiol and the skincare marketplace for products made with the new, natural Retinol alternative. It’s funny looking back on that article now, Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Anti-Aging Serums from The Inkey List, Herbivore & More!

There were only a handful of Bakuchiol anti-aging moisturizers at the time. Today, it’s quite common for a skincare brand to offer a product with Bakuchiol or, at the very least, to use the active in their formulas.

IMG_4868.jpg

But, Amperna is the first to offer a safe probiotic Retinol alternative with the Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt. Common sensitivity to Retinol isn’t the only reason to opt for a Bakuchiol formula.

Women who are pregnant are often advised to steer clear of Retinol, or Vitamin A. Because Bakuchiol has been proven an effective anti-aging replacement, Bakuchiol is the perfect option.

Similar to Amperna’s Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx, the Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt is a really well-formulated anti-aging serum for face. It contains the same brightening and soothing complexes for a potent treatment — and one of the best Bakuchiol creams.


What is Bakuchiol?

For insights on what Bakuchiol is and how it can be considered a viable alternative to Retinol, I turn again to the the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team: 

A natural antioxidant and anti-aging ingredient found in the seeds and leaves of the plant Psoralea corylifolia. This plant, also known as babchi, is native to and grows throughout India, where it plays a role in Ayurvedic medicine, and is also found in China (where it’s used in Chinese natural medicine) as well as parts of Africa. Ongoing in vitro (Petri dish) and in vivo (on skin) research has shown that bakuchiol seems to have skin-restoring ability when applied twice daily, and that it may also have a brightening effect on skin. Research has also shown this plant ingredient has soothing and anti-wrinkle properties as well as helping to visibly improve skin color and tone.

Bakuchiol is often touted as an alternative to retinol minus the sensitizing effects some people experience from retinol. The association between bakuchiol and retinol is because many of its benefits seem to mimic what retinol does; however, it’s important to distinguish that bakuchiol is not identical to retinol. It’s not an equivalent replacement any more than a blueberry is the nutritional equivalent of an apple.

Science has revealed that bakuchiol interacts with many of the same areas in skin as retinol, sometimes by taking the same pathway, other times by going a different route but still leading to the same results, such as diminished wrinkles, improved elasticity, and smoother skin. In either case, we’re confident that bakuchiol is a promising, beneficial ingredients whose actions can complement and enhance what retinol does for skin.

Research has confirmed that bakuchiol works best in concentrations between 0.5-2%. Amounts lower than that have not been shown to provide retinol-like benefits.


IMG_4872.jpg

Like the full-blown Retinol version, there’s a potent concentration of Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, or Azelaic Acid Salt, to gently exfoliate the skin and soothe signs of irritation. The soothing complex in the Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt also contains tried-and-true Bisabolol, Oat Kernel Extract and Allantoin as well as Amperna’s signature probiotic, soothing Lactococcus Ferment Lysate.

An effective skin brightener on its own, Azelaic Acid, is combined with 5% Niacinamide and Licorice Root Extract.

Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt is an anti-aging powerhouse and pro-skin health serum with the addition of a plumping, bio-fermented Oligopeptide, Yeast Ferment Extract and Soy Amino Acids.

Seriously, an excellent anti-aging treatment and the ideal alternative to Retinol.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Amperna Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt for $60 ($80AUD) here. For a limited time, enjoy 20% off all Amperna probiotic skincare with code SKINCARMA20.

IMG_4869.jpg

The skincare marketplace for probiotic treatments continues to expand. As does our recognition that our surface microbiome plays an important (perhaps the most important) role in how our skin behaves and in skin health in general. Amperna’s two new anti-aging treatments powered by probiotics are superb formulas — and some of the best anti-aging treatments for sensitive skin. Give them a look!

🖤 SKINCARMA

IMG_4206.jpg

SKINCARMA….

GIVEAWAY!

Enter to win your choice of the Amperna Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx or Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt ($60 value) — two of the best anti-aging treatments powered by microbiome-balancing probiotics.

Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 09/27/2020.



**WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF AMPERNA PROBIOTIC SKINCARE AND TWO OF THE BEST ANTI-AGING SERUMS FOR SENSITIVE SKIN ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**


IMG_4498.jpg

The Ingredient List of the Amperna Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx:

Amperna Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Rx

Aqua, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Azelaic Acid Salt), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Yeast Ferment Extract (Bioferment Oligopeptide), Soy Amino Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR - Retinoic Acid Ester), Sodium-L-Lactate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Bisabolol, Dipotassium Glycyrithizate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Liquorice) Root Extract, Isostearyl Alcohol, Boswellia Serrata Gum, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Saccharide Isomerate, Allantoin, Hyaluronic Acid, Zinc Oxide, DMDM Hydantoin, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate.

The Ingredient List of the Amperna Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt:

Amperna Pro+ Bio Resurfacing Retinol Alt

Aqua, Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Hydrosol, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Azelaic Acid Salt), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Yeast Ferment Extract (Bioferment Oligopeptide), Soy Amino Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Bakuchiol, Sodium-L-Lactate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Bisabolol, Dipotassium Glycyrithizate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Liquorice) Root Extract, Isostearyl Alcohol, Boswellia Serrata Gum, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Saccharide Isomerate, Allantoin, Hyaluronic Acid, Zinc Oxide, DMDM Hydantoin, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate.

PRODUCT REVIEW: AMPERNA PRO+ BIO RESURFACING RETINOL RX – THE BEST RETINOL CREAM FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: AMPERNA PRO+ BIO RESURFACING RETINOL RX – THE BEST RETINOL CREAM FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: BELLFLOWER IDEBENONE BRIGHTENING SERUM – ONE OF THE BEST ANTIOXIDANT SERUMS

PRODUCT REVIEW: BELLFLOWER IDEBENONE BRIGHTENING SERUM – ONE OF THE BEST ANTIOXIDANT SERUMS