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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE - BEST ANTI-AGING CREAM, BEST FACE CREAM FOR DRY SKIN
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I guess I spoke too soon last week when I alluded to the fact that winter was suddenly in high gear here in the Northeast.

Over the weekend, we got walloped!

And by walloped I mean the Merriam-Webster dictionary definition: to be soundly thrashed; to be beaten by a wide margin.

Sixteen inches of snow in Central Park! We haven’t experienced anything like that in perhaps five years or so. And before that it had been about eight years. That’s a lotta damn snow.

It was surreal to be trapped inside the apartment while the nightmare was unfolding outside. Visibility on the streets below must have been close to zero. Like if I were nuts enough to go out in it, I couldn’t see anything in front of me. In fact, the mayor issued a citywide alert that no cars should be on the streets — let alone people. It was that fierce.

Even Orpheus was mortified by what he was witnessing from his perch atop the bed. Suddenly, he couldn’t see anything outside the bedroom windows. Not only was there no sun (something he misses on cloudy days even more than I do!), but there was no nothing. Every once in a while he would prop himself up at the windows and catch a particularly large snow flake whizzing past, his head weaving and bobbing in an attempt to follow it. It was hilarious.

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Alas, we survived the most treacherous day of 2021 weather-wise. And here I am nearly a week later and it’s 50 degrees outside. Now, the peril is falling ice! The streets in NYC turn to an unsightly brown slush when lots of snow begins to melt and, sure enough, it’s gotten rather ugly outside. But hey, who doesn’t enjoy 50 degrees in early February — just three days after that asshat groundhog saw his shadow. Six more weeks of this? I don’t know if I can’t take it.

As I write this, the City just issued a new alert to my phone.

The National Weather Service has issued the following:

What: Winter Storm Watch

Where: NYC

When: 4 AM to 6 PM on 2/7 

Hazards: Roads may be dangerous. Use mass transit if possible. Preparedness Actions: Use caution when walking, biking, or driving.

Ugh. Thus is the ebb and flow of winter…

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The skincare stuff starts here.

As much as wintry weather terrorizes my daily life, it terrorizes my skin. Early on in the cold weather season, beginning in late November, I was combatting the drying effects of the cold air with a heavier face cream, a hydrating mist (make it six!), and a good humectant face serum. Honestly, a well-formulated humectant is everything. A few weeks ago, I published a piece titled, My Favorite Humectant Serums from Paula's Choice, The Inkey List, Ghost Democracy and More.

That earlier article includes product reviews of what I consider some of the best Hyaluronic Acid serums I’ve come across in my skincare travels. Locking hydration into the skin is essential during the winter months — and it gets more and more challenging as the temps descend into madness.

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MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST, GHOST DEMOCRACY AND MORE

But humectants aren’t the only tool in your arsenal for preventing dehydration and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) in brutally cold air. A thick, rich, replenishing moisturizer is also essential for maintaining optimal skin health during the dry winter season. In my series on heavier face creams titled, Winter Moisturizers Part I – Some of the Best Face Creams for Dry Skin and All Skin Types in Cold Weather, I first introduced the clean, clinical Skinfix brand and their Barrier+ franchise. (More on that in a few.)

Skinfix is having a moment in the sun (and the cold!). Suddenly, serious skincare bloggers and enthusiasts, what the brand refers to as “skin nerds,” are raving about its exceptional skin barrier repairing skin care.

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The brand’s founder and chief skin nerd, Amy Risely, is a real expert in skin barrier health and common skin issues related to a compromised barrier, including sensitivity and eczema. In fact, Skinfix has an entire range of eczema treatments called Eczema+. If you struggle with eczema, as I sometimes do in the winter months, you’ll want to turn to Skinfix. The products simply work!

Skinfix products are clean, vegan/beegan and highly efficacious treatments that are just shy of prescription strength —particularly in the treatment of dermatitis.


“At Skinfix, we have come to understand that the skin barrier is vulnerable to many factors and there truly is not one solution to fit all. We meet skin at its most distressed, and formulate clean, highly effective, yet gentle solutions to bring it back to a state of wellness and help keep it there.” - Amy Risley, Skinfix founder


As a clinical brand, Amy and her expert team are focused primarily on protecting, maintaining and enhancing the skin health of their users. Notably, much of what the brand espouses centers on the health of the skin barrier itself. Just as Skinfix offers some of the best face creams for eczema, the brand also has a broad collection of products that target skin barrier health called simply, Barrier+.

The Skinfix Barrier+ collection is formulated to replenish and restore lipids in the skin barrier, also known as the moisture barrier or lipid barrier.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


What are lipids in the skin?

Lipids are a hot skincare topic of late. While the power antioxidant Niacinamide has been everyone’s favorite active for a couple of years now, lipids are all the rage. What are lipids? Well, lipids are the skin’s natural fats. And they’re essential components of the skin barrier.

The lipid content of the upper layers of the skin includes fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol that combine to support skin barrier function and fortify against TEWL, or trans-epidermal water loss. The loss of moisture through the skin barrier is one of the leading causes of dehydration, dryness and weakening of skin barrier defenses that can lead to common skin conditions like sensitivity, irritation, eczema and dermatitis.

As proponents of barrier health and the role that lipids play, there’s an insightful piece on the Skinfix website titled, Do you know the importance of lipids to skin health? (You can read the full piece here.)

What is the lipid layer of the skin?

The lipid layer of the skin is composed of fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol – all natural fat substances that play an important role in skin health. Although research regarding lipids is an emerging area of skin research, studies suggest optimal levels of ceramides in human skin to be approximately 50% of the skin’s lipid layer, cholesterol 25%, and other fatty acids at about 10-15%. 

You may know the lipid layer by one of its other names: the skin barrier or moisture barrier. However it’s referred to, this natural barrier serves key functions that are linked directly to skin health.  

One of these essential tasks is to act as an environmental shield against external aggressors including pollutants, free radicals and microorganisms like viruses and bacteria. Additionally, this layer of skin fats functions as a moat to hold moisture in the skin and prevent loss of water and electrolytes through the skin barrier.

In fact, optimal lipids in the barrier help all of the skin’s functions to operate more effectively. Examples of these vital functions are: immune response and wound healing; skin’s response to UV radiation and its regulation of melanin; the natural production of protective antioxidants; and the support of dermal functions, including the production of elastin and collagen in the dermis. 

How can I improve my skin lipid barrier?

So, proper lipid barrier function is the key to skin health. But did you know that we lose skin barrier lipids like ceramides and fatty acids as we age? Over the course of our lives, the skin’s lipid content steadily declines as the skin is unable to replenish depleted lipids like fatty acids and ceramides at a youthful pace.

By our 30s, we may have lost up to 40% of vital skin lipids. 

By our 40s we may have lost up to 60% of vital skin lipids.

This absence of lipids in the skin compromises skin barrier defenses and accelerates signs of skin aging. The solution? A lipid-rich moisturizer that helps replenish ceramides and fatty acids to maximize optimal functions and preserve the youthful behaviors of the skin. Even what may be considered the best face creams for dry skin can fall short of skin’s most essential needs. When it comes to skin barrier health, these needs transcend mere moisture.

Studies have shown that using a face cream with skin-similar lipids that mimic the skin barrier’s own lipids is the most effective way to replenish lipids.


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WINTER MOISTURIZERS PART I – SOME OF THE BEST FACE CREAMS FOR DRY SKIN AND ALL SKIN TYPES IN COLD WEATHER


The cornerstone of the Barrier+ regimen is the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream. Skinfix refers to its top-selling face cream as “a lipid filler” that is rich in vital lipids, peptides and Sodium Hyaluronate — the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid that is more compatible with the skin. The Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream is clinically proven to help restore skin lipids like ceramides and fatty acids — and support barrier function by reversing lipid depletion.

When paired with the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum and Foaming Oil Cleanser, the three-product Barrier+ regimen has been clinically proven to replenish skin lipids by nearly 24% in 28 days — or just about 1% per day. That’s serious barrier replenishment and repair!

Let’s take a look at the Skinfix Barrier+ three-product regimen in detail…


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Skinfix | Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream

As I said, the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream is the centerpiece of the brand’s skin barrier-building Barrier+ franchise. Triple Lipid-Peptide has become a staple in my winter skin arsenal and is, in my opinion, one of the best face creams for dry skin — and all skin types in the dryness of winter.

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The 96% naturally derived Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream is deliciously rich, thick and creamy — the perfect moisturizer for dry skin. Why? Because the Triple Lipid-Peptide formula is infused with bio-compatible lipids — the foundation of all skin, no matter its type. Skin desperately needs lipids (aka fats) to function.

Naturally occurring lipids found in the skin include fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides — which can count for more than 50% of total skin lipids.

The Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream contains the brand’s proprietary Triple Lipid Complex that, “helps to restore skin’s natural lipids and fatty acids for glowing, smooth, healthy-looking skin.”

You may recall my selection of the Skinfix Remedy+ 911 Ointment in my recent blog article on maskne titled, Best Maskne Treatments available to read here. While I’d been relying on the Remedy+ 911 Ointment to treat dryness around my mouth, I also realized it’s the perfect treatment for slugging — the new trend of applying a heavy ointment to your skin before bed to defend against dehydrating TEWL.

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What is trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)?

There’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? available here. In the piece, the author defines TEWL as follows:

“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).

While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.

Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”

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Guess what! In winter, the brand’s 911 Ointment is the perfect moisture seal over Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream to prevent TEWL so you wake up looking fresh, not frightful!

Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream’s nourishing blend of beneficial non-fragrant plant oils like Shea Butter, Sweet Almond Oil, Grapeseed Oil and Jojoba Oil is combined with ceramides 1,3 and 6 — and botanical cholesterol to help replenish skin’s own vital lipids. 911 Ointment makes sure all that essential goodness goes in only one direction — deep into the skin.

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If your skin is not particularly dry and you’re not living in a very dry climate, Triple Lipid-Peptide is perfectly effective on its own. I used it nearly nightly throughout November and December to fend of dryness and dehydration throughout both day and night. The vegan formula literally feels like velvet on the skin.

Most notably, as part of the Skinfix Barrier+ three-product regimen:

“In a 28 day clinical study using Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum in conjunction with, Barrier+ Foaming OIl Cleanser, Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Lotion & Cream; The quantity of lipids in the skin barrier increased by a significant 23.6% in 28 days (that’s nearly a 1% increase in skin lipids each day!).”

How else are you going to reverse the effects of lipid depletion in winter? You really begin to feel the lipid replenishing effects of Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream within a week or so. Such a fantastic moisturizer for the cold! Brrr…

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream for $50 here.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

WINTER MOISTURIZERS PART I – THE BEST FACE CREAMS FOR DRY SKIN WITH PAULA'S CHOICE, SKINFIX & MORE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE



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THE SKINCARMA GIVEAWAY!

Enter for a chance to win a 3-product Skinfix Barrier+ regimen, including Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream, Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum and Foaming Oil Cleanser. ($128 value!)

Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 02/14/2021.


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Skinfix | Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum

A good humectant serum is everything for preventing the dehydrating effects of cold air. And the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum is one of the best humectant serums. Formally known as Barrier+ Lipid-Boost Jelly, the Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum is a 97% naturally derived milky serum that’s easily layered over a Niacinamide and/or Vitamin C serum and below a moisturizer.

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The cleanly formulated Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum is powered by the brand’s Triple Lipid Complex — proven to help restore and replenish lipids and fatty acids in the skin.

Again, as part of the three-product Barrier+ regimen it has been clinically proven to replenish skin lipids by nearly 1% per day.

What gives this silky gel-serum its hydrating oomph is its blend of naturally derived humectants, including Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Chondrus Crispus Extract. Notably, Chondrus Crispus Extract is classified by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team as one of the best actives for skincare. According to the panel:

Chondrus crispus, also known as red algae, is a type of seaweed that’s a rich source of many nutrients for skin, including the pigment beta-carotene and potent antioxidants zeaxanthin, lutein, which help protect skin from the visible effects of blue light exposure. Of course, the antioxidants in red algae have wider-reaching benefits, too.

The natural polysaccharides, peptides, and amino acids in red algae also help skin to stay hydrated; meanwhile, the numerous antioxidants in this and other types of algae can help shield skin from damaging airborne pollutants.

Chondrus crispus contains a compound known as carrageenan, which forms a flexible film on skin that offers further defense against environmental stressors.

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This humectant powerhouse blend helps to lock moisture in the skin to prevent dehydration and maintain optimal hydration levels throughout the upper skin layers.

There are also several highly effective non-fragrant plant oils that nourish and moisturize dry skin, including Jojoba Oil and Squalene. Numerous antioxidants help skin defend against environmental aggressors — among them, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract (Peony Root Complex) and Rosemary Leaf Extract.


What’s the difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin?

For the answer to that vexing questing, as I most often do, I turned to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team for insights. There’s a superb piece on the Paula’s Choice site titled, What is Dehydrated Skin & How to Choose the Best Products. Here is an excerpt:

Dehydrated skin often looks and feels like dry skin all over your face, but there's a major difference between the two: dehydrated skin is usually a temporary concern (with various surprising causes) and dry skin typically doesn't change over time. If you have dehydrated skin, your skin may also produce a normal or even excessive amount of oil on its surface.

"Dehydrated skin" is something we’re asked about frequently. It seems there’s a lot of confusion about what this skin concern is about. A major part of the confusion is that the term "dehydrated skin" is often used interchangeably with "dry skin" or "combination skin" but they are not the same! Dehydrated skin can occur in all skin types and is not exclusive to those with dry skin or combination skin.

The Difference Between Dry Skin and Dehydrated Skin

Having classically dry skin is easy to recognize. Dry skin frequently feels tight and dry, with no oil anywhere to be seen. This situation rarely fluctuates; skin feels dry all year long. The dryness might get worse depending on the climate, season, or activity, but regardless of those things, without great skin care products, the uncomfortable dry, tight feeling will persist.

As mentioned above, dehydrated skin can look and feel similar, but there’s a major difference: Dehydrated skin tends to come and go, it does not persist.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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I’m obsessed with its concentrated silky, milky texture. It feels so pampering on skin and melts right in. If you’re looking for a reasonably priced, yet luxurious humectant serum, the Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum is an ideal option.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum for $50 here.



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MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST, GHOST DEMOCRACY AND MORE


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Skinfix | Barrier+ Foaming Oil Cleanser

If you want a gentle cleanser, look for one made with natural coconut oils, derivatives and extracts.

The Skinfix Barrier+ Foaming Oil Cleanser is formulated with several mild, coconut-derived surfactants that gently cleanse the skin without stripping it of its vital oils. Among them are Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate and Sodium Lauroamphoacetate. Each has been evaluated by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team as well-tolerated by skin and good for use in facial cleansers.

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The Barrier+ Foaming Oil Cleanser has a remarkable texture for a cleanser — and you may know that cleansing is my favorite skincare step.

Early in the fall, I published a piece titled, New Cleansers That Get Me Excited To Wash My Face. Had I gotten my hands on this cool Skinfix cleanser, it would certainly have been on that list.

As with both the Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream and Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum, the 98% naturally derived, vegan Foaming Oil Cleanser formula is powered by the brand’s patented lipid revitalizing Triple Lipid Complex “that helps replenish skin barrier lipids, such as ceramides and fatty acids.”

The formula has a transformative quality to it that I love, morphing from a silky, oily cream to a gentle foam that’s reminiscent of K-beauty cleansers infused with snail mucin. It feels supremely hydrating as it works its cleansing magic. As with all Skinfix products, it’s 100% fragrance free and 100% pro-skin health.

And, most importantly, as part of the three-product Barrier+ regimen it has been clinically proven to replenish skin lipids by nearly 1% per day. That means more fatty acids and ceramides to keep skin as healthy and functioning as it should be.


What are ceramides?

Of course, I go straight to my most trusted source — the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team. There’s a rather in-depth piece on the site titled, What Are Ceramides and How Do They Work in Skin Care Products? You can read the full piece here, if you’re so inclined. Here’s what I loved most from the article:

As far as anti-aging ingredients go, ceramides have a proven record, but are often overlooked, and rarely explained. Here, we’ll dive deep to clarify how ceramides help skin retain moisture, fortify its protective barrier, and keep its appearance firm and plump—especially given the recent research clarifying ceramides’ unique ability to rejuvenate skin’s appearance. Below, we’ve gathered the research-supported answers to your top ceramide-related questions:

What are ceramides?

Simply put, ceramides are lipids (fats) that are found naturally in high concentrations in the uppermost layers of skin. They make up over 50% of skin’s composition, so it’s no surprise they play a vital role in determining how your skin looks (and how it responds to environmental threats).

What do ceramides do?

Think of ceramides as the mortar between bricks—if the bricks are your skin cells. Ceramides help hold skin together by forming a protective layer that limits moisture loss and protects against visible damage from pollution and other environmental stressors. In addition, ceramides—even more than retinol, niacinamide, and peptides—are one of the anti-aging “powerhouses” responsible for supporting skin’s dynamic nature. Two particular ceramide precursors—phytosphingosine and sphingolipids—actually help skin make more ceramides.

If my skin already contains ceramides, why do I need them in my beauty products?

Age and sun damage reduce the effectiveness of your skin’s natural ceramides—and can eventually deplete them, which weakens your skin’s barrier. The results are drier, rougher skin, wrinkles, irritation, redness, and visible signs of dehydration. This is where skin care knowledge comes into play—because it really is possible to significantly restore what’s been diminished.


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Ceramides are everything! That’s why the Skinfix Barrier+ collection is so effective at promoting skin health.

In addition to the lipid boosting complex, the Foaming Oil Cleanser contains multiple humectants, including Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Chondrus Crispus Extract — the signature nutrient-rich red algae featured in the Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum.

Come on, name me a cleanser that does anything as beneficial as this one does for skin. I’m waiting…

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Skinfix Barrier+ Foaming Oil Cleanser for $28 here.


That’s it, guys! I hope you’ll take lipid replenishment seriously when assessing your skin and why it may be misbehaving. Lipids may not sound sexy, but they’re vital for your skin health.

💟 SKINCARMA


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THE

SKINCARMA

GIVEAWAY!

Enter for a chance to win a 3-product Skinfix Barrier+ regimen, including Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream, Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum and Foaming Oil Cleanser. ($128 value!)

Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 02/14/2021.



WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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The Ingredient List of the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream:

The Ingredient List of the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Hyaluronate Serum:

The Ingredient List of the Skinfix Barrier+ Foaming Oil Cleanser:

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