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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: KAT BURKI NUTRIENT C EYE CREAM - BEST NATURAL EYE CREAM, BEST BRIGHTENING EYE CREAM WITH VITAMIN C

Kat Burki | Nutrient C Eye Cream

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This review was originally part of my blog article titled, New Eye Creams That I Think You'll Love As Much As I Do. You can still catch the full piece here.

What always feels like a return to normal is spring! I don’t know why that is. As if three cold, harsh, grueling months of winter aren’t normal in New York. Of course that’s normal. But it’s not the welcome kind of normal that spring is, right?

I spent the entire winter season talking about cold weather skin care to treat extreme dryness. You can catch my series on the best face creams for dry skin and all skin types in winter in my two-part series titled Winter Moisturizer. The first five moisturizers are in part one here. The second five, rounding out my ten recommendations, is in part two here.

That seems like ages ago! As winter comes to a close and spring rears its gorgeous little head, I’m beginning to take a fresh look at my skincare picks for the weeks ahead. Lighter face creams will be in again, as will lighter eye creams and sunscreens. Psst…watch out for my piece on lightweight sunscreen products I’m testing out now.

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SKINCARE 101: EYE SPF AND THE BEST PRODUCT FOR DARK CIRCLES

But I want to kick the new season off with eye creams. Not to pat myself on the back, but I did a much better job of protecting my delicate, thin-skinned eye area this past winter than ever before. I was singularly focused on assuring that the skin around my eyes was sufficiently hydrated day and night as the dry, low-humidity air worked its wicked magic, sucking the life and water out of my skin barrier.

It appears to have paid off.

As with the rest of my face, I prevented trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) most days with my “lock and block” strategy. I locked water in my skin through frequent use of humectant-rich serums infused with high concentrations of Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe Vera, seaweed, Beta-Glucan and Glycerin.

I published an article on what I consider the best Hyaluronic Acid serums titled, My Favorite Humectant Serums which you can catch here.

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MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS - BEST HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS, BEST HYDRATING SERUMS


What Is Trans-Epidermal Water Loss?

There’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? available here. In the piece, the author defines TEWL as follows:

“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).

While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.

Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”


By locking water-based hydration in my skin, I was able to prevent skin-damaging, skin-aging dehydration. But locking it in isn’t enough. The drying forces of cold air and artificial heat are a tough opponent in the healthy skin game. This is where blocking comes in — creating an effective one-two punch to protect and preserve skin health.

I found that using highly occlusive treatments created an effective seal over my skin that blocked the loss of moisture through the skin barrier. This defensive shield essentially kept the dry air from penetrating into my skin and drawing out the hydration it desperately needs to remain healthy.

The required level of occlusion can be achieved through a heavy, water-free ointment or rich facial oil, particularly suitable during the night, while you’re at rest. In the morning and throughout the day, a heavy, emollient face cream paired with a thicker sunscreen does the trick.

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NEW PAMPERING FACIAL OILS THAT WOW ME - FROM KJAER WEIS, BIOSSANCE AND MORE

For the first time since my youth, I emerged from winter with my eye area relatively intact — smooth, healthy and free of dehydration lines. Throughout the season, I used all of those heavier treatments — the waterless balms, heavy facial oils and thicker sunscreens in my immediate eye area.

Spring is, well, springing and these emergency measures are no longer required. Just like the lifting of pandemic restrictions allowing me to return to my Friday night movie, I’m returning my regular eye care to something a bit more normal — with lighter-weight eye creams, serums, and sunscreens!

Let’s have a look at a few new favorites, some of the best eye creams for dry skin, oily skin and all skin around the eyes in springtime…


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Kat Burki | Nutrient C Eye Cream

I have had my eyes on Kat Burki for some time now. But, curiously, I hadn’t had the opportunity to try out any of the celebrity nutritionist’s products until a few weeks ago. I’ve been quite impressed with what I’ve tried. Particularly, the Goji Essence!

Kat’s Goji Essence is a remarkable fermented acid toner that lights up my skin. It’s powered by Lactic Acid, plant stem cell extracts, the plumping Matrixyl- 3000 peptide complex and, of course, power-antioxidant Goji Berry Extract. No joke, it feels like liquid skin health in a bottle!

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I’ve also been blown away by the Kat Burki Vital Hydration Blast, featured in my #selfcaresunday video on my YouTube channel two weeks ago. If you missed it, you can still catch it here for your own #selfcaresunday session this coming weekend!

I’m not even close to exaggerating when I say that Kat’s Vital Hydration Blast is one of the most luxurious, skin-pampering moisture masks I’ve ever tried. I can’t get enough of it.

The Vital Hydration Blast is a rich, creamy blend of Kat’s proprietary KB5 antioxidant complex — combined with multiple non-fragrant plant oils and extracts, botanical Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C, ceramides, peptides and more. Seriously, it’s next-level clean luxury skincare and the perfect #selfcaresunday treat.

So, of course, with the experience of these two standout skin gems, I was excited to try the Kat Burki Nutrient C Eye Cream. The Nutrient C is more of a thick, milky serum than a conventional eye cream in a pot. Eye creams in pots, oh my!

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Of course, eye creams should never, ever, ever come in pots or jars with lids. Of all the skincare wrongs, this is my biggest pet peeve. I can barely stand a face cream in a jar, let alone an eye cream intended for use in the delicate eye area. In fact, there were two eye creams I was considering for this article but I opted to go exclusively with products in pumps, tubes and sticks.

Rant complete.

The Nutrient C Eye Cream INCI starts out with Kat’s KB5 nutrient-dense antioxidant complex composed of Arnica Flower Water, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Leaf Water, Lavender Flower Water, Calendula Flower Water and Chamomile Flower Water.

Next is Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, a stable, water-soluble Vitamin C derivative with unique benefits for the skin beyond antioxidant defense. It’s rated as one of the best ingredients for skin care by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team:

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a stable, water-soluble form of vitamin C that functions as an antioxidant and is potentially effective for brightening an uneven skin tone. There is also research showing amounts of 1% and 5% concentrations of sodium ascorbyl phosphate can influence factors linked to breakouts. Thus, this form of vitamin C may be an effective adjunct to anti-acne products that contain benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid.

There are also a slew of antioxidant non-fragrant plant oils and extracts in the Nutrient C Eye Cream formula that give it a rich, yet lightweight texture that feels supremely comforting around the eyes. It’s so invigorating and replenishing!


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What Are Antioxidants?

There’s an excellent article full of antioxidants insights on the Paula’s Choice website titled, How Antioxidants Fight the Signs of Aging. The experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team share this:

Antioxidants for Skin Benefits

Antioxidants play a unique role when it comes to diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Years of environmental damage (including unprotected sun exposure—one more reason to apply that broad-spectrum sunscreen!) slowly chip away at skin’s natural ability to look and feel healthy. As this damage builds up, skin gradually loses its ability to recover and bounce back as it once did. It’s not an exaggeration to say that after years of damage, skin becomes overwhelmed, and its “look young systems” begin to slow down.

Antioxidants in skin care step in to help shield skin’s surface from further deterioration by calming stressed skin and defending against the visible effects of pollution —something all of us encounter on a daily basis.

What happens as a result of applying antioxidants to your face is truly impressive: Skin’s appearance begins to turn around! It regains a firmer feel and more even skin tone—and those wrinkles you’re probably not fond of will visibly soften.


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There’s a tiny, tiny amount of caffeine in Kat’s natural, brightening eye cream that may help to alleviate puffiness in the under-eye area, though it’s not enough to make me break-up with my go-to Caffeine Eye Solution from The Ordinary.

If you’re looking for one of the best natural eye creams to brighten the eye area and deliver potent antioxidant defense, the Kat Burki Nutrient C Eye Cream is the perfect option.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Kat Burki Nutrient C Eye Cream for $90 here.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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The Ingredient List of the Kat Burki Nutrient C Eye Cream:

KB5™ Complex (Arnica Montana (Arnica) Flower Water, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Leaf Water, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Water, Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Water, Matricaria Recutita (Matricaria/Chamomile) Flower Water), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C/STAY-C), Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Azadirachta Indica (Neem) Seed Oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Caffeine, Maris Sal (OMC-92 Ocean Mineral Complex), Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Leaf Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum (Reishi) Extract, Juniperus Communis (Juniper) Fruit Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail Plant) Extract, Geranium Maculatum (Geranium) Extract, Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum (Algae) Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Isopropyl Palmitate (Palm Oil), Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Carbomer, Lecithin, Escin, Potassium Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol (preservative, less than 1%), Ethylhexylglycerin (preservative, less than 1%), Parfum/Fragrance (Natural), Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene.

The Ingredient List of the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Boost 360° Eye Cream:

The Ingredient List of the Herb + Flora Eye Of The Cyclops Recovery Eye Gel:

H+F Exercise Mimic Youth™ Complex, Asparagus Extract, Macroalgae, Mini Hyaluronic Acid, Astaxanthin, Eyeliss, Mango Butter, Coconut Oil, Mediterranean Botanicals: Yarrow, Wild Sunflower, Arnica, Mallow

The Ingredient List of the Peace Out Retinol Eye Stick:

The Ingredient List of the Good Molecules Yerba Mate Wake Up Eye Gel:

PRODUCT REVIEW: SKINFIX BARRIER+ TRIPLE LIPID-BOOST 360° EYE CREAM - BEST ANTI-AGING EYE CREAM, BEST EYE CREAM FOR DRY SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: SKINFIX BARRIER+ TRIPLE LIPID-BOOST 360° EYE CREAM - BEST ANTI-AGING EYE CREAM, BEST EYE CREAM FOR DRY SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: HERB + FLORA EYE OF THE CYCLOPS RECOVERY EYE GEL - BEST EYE SERUM, BEST ANTI-AGING EYE CREAM

PRODUCT REVIEW: HERB + FLORA EYE OF THE CYCLOPS RECOVERY EYE GEL - BEST EYE SERUM, BEST ANTI-AGING EYE CREAM