OLEHENRIKSEN | PHAT GLOW FACIAL MASK

It’s been a minute since I did a really intense acid exfoliating mask. Most recently, I posted a product review of the Paula’s Choice 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel — one of the best exfoliating peels with Glycolic Acid I’ve ever used. With its 25% concentration of acids, it’s not for the faint of heart. (You can catch my review of it here.)

While I’ve experienced the OLEHENRIKSEN PHAT Glow Facial Mask previously, it’s been a few years and I thought I’d try it again. After all, PHA’s are hot right now.

In my day job as a copywriter, I actually worked on the OLEHENRIKSEN rebranding five years ago and the brand will always have a special place in my heart! Psst…you can check out my portfolio and work on the brand here.

As I recall, the OLEHENRIKSEN AHA exfoliating serum Invigorating Night Transformation Gel was iconic at the time, and one of the first AHA treatments I’d used. That’s since been replaced by the more modern and sophisticated Dewtopia 20% Acid Night Treatment — a blend of both PHA’s and AHA’s.

Which brings me to the OLEHENRIKSEN PHAT Glow Facial Mask. With bentonite and kaolin clays, Ole’s PHAT Glow Facial Mask was actually one of the first PHA treatments I came across.

Even though PHA’s are more gentle acids, the PHAT Glow Facial Mask is definitely intense. While I felt only a slight sensation that reminded me of a cool breeze while it was on, I saw no irritation after. I did, however, feel the coolness for about 30 minutes. And my complexion was smooth AF!

What are PHA’s?

Polyhydroxy acids are a class of exfoliating acids similar to AHA’s and BHA’s. There’s a spectrum of AHA’s with the most potent Glycolic Acid on one end and the least harsh Mandelic Acid on the other. I think of PHA’s as similar to Mandelic Acid in terms of intensity and tolerability .

What Are PHA’s and What Do Polyhydroxy Acids Do?

The experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team offer the following insights on the remarkable exfoliating benefits of Polyhydroxy Acids.

Polyhydroxy acids are ingredients such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. They’re supposed to be as effective as AHAs, but less sensitizing.
Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are chemically and functionally similar to AHAs (such as glycolic acid). The significant difference between them and AHAs is that gluconolactone and lactobionic acid have larger molecular structures, which limits their ability to penetrate the skin, resulting in less potential for sensitizing side-effects. Supposedly, this reduced absorption into the skin does not hamper their effectiveness.
Does that mean gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are better for your skin than AHAs in the form of glycolic acid or lactic acid? According to an Internet-published class lecture by Dr. Mark G. Rubin, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, research on gluconolactone demonstrated only a “6% decrease in dermal penetration” in comparison to glycolic acid, which “isn’t a dramatic improvement.”
Gluconolactone may be slightly less sensitizing for some skin types, but this isn’t the magic bullet for exfoliation some cosmetics companies have been extolling.
Polyhydroxy acids can also function as antioxidants and may promote some amount of improvement in skin’s surface strength.

The OLEHENRIKSEN PHAT Glow Facial Mask gets the job done — without irritation common to many exfoliating acid masks. If you’re concerned about sensitivity or irritation, you might want to give this one a try.

Curious? Catch it in action on my YouTube channel here.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the OLEHENRIKSEN PHAT Glow Facial Mask for $52 here.

SHOP SEPHORA FOR OLEHENRIKSEN PHAT GLOW FACIAL MASK