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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE TRIPLE PEPTIDE + CACTUS HYDRATING + FIRMING OASIS SERUM - BEST ANTI-AGING SERUM, BEST HYDRATING SERUM FOR FACE

PRODUCT REVIEW: YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE TRIPLE PEPTIDE + CACTUS HYDRATING + FIRMING OASIS SERUM - BEST ANTI-AGING SERUM, BEST HYDRATING SERUM FOR FACE

YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE | TRIPLE PEPTIDE + CACTUS HYDRATING

This product review was originally part of my blog article titled, Hydrating Serums I'm into from Naturium, Youth To The People, Purito and More. You can catch the full piece here.

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A cold January day in New York City can feel oddly exhilarating. It didn’t used to be that way for me. I always loathed the cold growing up. And until very recently, a matter of three years ago, I dreaded winter.

As I entered into what can best be described as male menopause, complete with migraines and hot flashes, I began to appreciate and even long for cold air.

Yet while the cold now numbs my head on a migraine day, it’s also quite dehydrating, which can quickly make a migraine more intense. So I do what I can to stay hydrated. That means lots and lots of water. However, drinking the recommended amount of water each day is not enough to prevent your skin from dehydrating — and to defend against the visible effects of dehydration on your face.

There’s a simple remedy for keeping your skin optimally hydrated on a cold, dry, low-humidity day: a well-formulated humectant serum. And I love a good humectant serum!

My most recent piece on humectants was in the middle of summer, when a hot July day can be just as dehydrating as a cold January day. The blog article was titled, New Hyaluronic Acid Serums I Love from Farmacy Beauty, Herbivore, Glossier and More.

NEW HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS I LOVE FROM FARMACY BEAUTY, HERBIVORE, GLOSSIER AND MORE


Among my favorites featured were Farmacy Beauty Filling Good Hyaluronic Acid Plumping Serum — a wonderfully hydrating blend of Honey Extract, Propolis Extract and Royal Jelly Extract. As I said, Farmacy Beauty’s Filling Good hydrating serum is full of intrigue. With its unique silky texture, delicate honey aroma and multi-molecular forms of Hyaluronic Acid, it’s one of the best humectant serums to fix dehydrated skin.

Another favorite humectant serum I featured in the article was the Herbivore Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum. It’s a slightly milky, silky serum loaded with rehydrating goodness for the skin. Like the brand’s Pink Cloud Jelly Cleanser, the Cloud Jelly serum is infused with Snow Mushroom — a sexy sounding hydrator believed to be a more effective humectant than Hyaluronic Acid itself. In addition to Snow Mushroom, there are several other humectants, including Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, and Rose Flower Water.

Psst…you can catch my review of Herbivore’s Cloud Jelly Plumping Hydration Serum on the blog here.

So a good humectant serum is essential for maintaining skin health on both a hot summer day and during the harsh cold months of winter. Among the most effective hydrators (or re-hydrators!) is a well-formulated Hyaluronic Acid serum.

While Hyaluronic Acid is far and away the most popular and most sought-after of humectants, it is by no means the only one. Humectant ingredients that are equally effective at preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and subsequent dehydration include: Beta Glucan, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica, Polyglutamic Acid, Glycerin, Aloe Vera, Snow Mushroom and even honey and common seaweed, or algae.

Seasonal Skincare Transitioning: The Best Products for Cold Weather

Throughout my FW21 series on seasonal skincare transitioning, I’ve talked about what I refer to as the Skincarma Lock & Block strategy. What I’m referring to are the two measures necessary for preventing trans-epidermal water loss and subsequent dehydration. They are locking water in the skin with humectants and blocking the escape of moisture through the skin barrier with occlusive products like heavier facial oils and creams.


The Skincarma “Lock and Block” Prevents Dehydration

To start, preventing dehydration in the first place requires drinking enough water. That differs for each of us based on our weight, the foods we eat, and the climate we live in. It’s even more important during colder periods.

A good rule is to drink one ounce of water each day for every pound of body weight. So, if you weigh 150 lbs., you’ll need to drink 150 ounces of water each and every day to keep your body and your skin optimally hydrated.

Then, employing skincare to treat and prevent dehydration requires what I refer to as a “lock and block” strategy.

It begins with a dedicated humectant serum applied to the skin in both your AM and PM routines that helps to lock water in. Follow with a moisturizer composed of a healthy balance of both humectants and oils to block and prevent the trans-epidermal water loss that can lead to dehydration.


SEASONAL SKINCARE: MOISTURIZERS THAT MAKE ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER - BEST FACE CREAMS FOR DRY SKIN


What Is Trans-Epidermal Water Loss and What Causes Trans Epidermal Water Loss?

For a deeper dive (no pun intended!) into trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL, there’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? It’s available to read here.

In the piece, the author explains TEWL as follows:

“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).

While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.

Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”


Maintaining proper hydration levels year-round is essential if skin is going to function at its peak. Healthy functioning skin is better able to defend against external aggressors like pollution, UV, and free radical attacks. And healthy skin is better fortified against aging. So while it may seem slick to say that a humectant serum that helps keep skin hydrated is an effective anti-aging product, it’s not really a stretch at all. It’s simple common sense.

With that, let’s take a look at one of my favorite new humectant serums for keeping skin optimally hydrated in both harsh heat and bone-chilling cold....


Youth To The People | Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum

I say it all the time, but I LOVE Youth to the People. YTTP is seriously one of the coolest skincare brands. Their products are clean, vegan and seriously fun to use.

YTTP has a cool, laid back vibe reminiscent of my days in Los Angeles. It makes complete sense as Youth To The People is LA born and bred. I’ve reviewed many of the cleanly formulated brand’s products — including the Youth to the People Adaptogen Deep Moisture Cream and the Superfood Air-Whip Moisturizer with Hyaluronic Acid — honestly, one of the best face creams for oily skin and all skin types on a hot summer day.

But perhaps my favorite of the brand’s products is the new treatment toner — the Youth To The People Mandelic Acid + Superfood Unity Exfoliant. In classic Youth To The People fashion, the formula is a winner in my book — and one of the most gentle exfoliating toners with AHA’s, ideal for those with sensitive skin.

The Superfood Unity Exfoliant is a powerhouse treatment toner formulated with sensitive and sensitized skin in mind. The formula blends two gentle, effective exfoliating acids, the PHA Gluconolactone and the least aggressive of the alpha hydroxy acids, Mandelic Acid. I use it liberally without ever having to worry that things can go awry, that it will irritate my skin like a harsher Glycolic Acid toner often does.

PRODUCT REVIEW: YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE MANDELIC ACID + SUPERFOOD UNITY EXFOLIANT – BEST TONER FOR OILY SKIN


“We believe in youth. The optimism in it and the courage to act to protect our future. We believe in being Good To The People. Our Giving arm is a foundry for people who care about people and the planet. Giving initiatives support non-profits and activists working to amplify diverse voices and increase inclusivity, build a more just world, and save the planet. Giving takes action. As the charitable arm of YTTP, Giving invests in shaping a better future for everyone.”

— Joe and Greg, co-founders


PRODUCT REVIEW: YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE SUPERFOOD AIR-WHIP MOISTURIZER - BEST NATURAL FACE CREAM

Throughout the fall and winter, Youth To The People’s new cleansing balm, Superberry Dream Cleansing Balm, has been a go-to. With its super rich, pampering texture and the drier air here in NYC, the Superberry Dream Cleansing Balm literally came at the perfect time.

YTTP always nails it and the Superberry Dream Cleansing Balm is no exception. In fact, it’s exceptional! With nourishing Sunflower, Moringa and Jojoba Seed Oils, YTTP describes it as “a flash-melting cleansing balm that rapidly dissolves long-wear makeup, water-resistant sunscreens, and oils while hydrating skin long after rinsing.”

PRODUCT REVIEW: YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE SUPERBERRY DREAM CLEANSING BALM - BEST CLEANSER FOR DRY SKIN

So, naturally I’m excited (and honored!) to be among the first to try the new Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum. And, as with the Superberry Dream Cleansing Balm, it couldn’t come at a better time. January and February are the coldest, driest months of the year here and I’m in a constant battle to keep my skin hydrated.

And what a name. I feel like I’m a world away from any sort of cactus in a desert oasis. But I can fantasize!

The Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum is like a Hyaluronic Acid serum on steroids. YTTP describes it as “a potent, triple-peptide-infused, hyaluronic-acid serum that intensely hydrates and visibly plumps and firms to sustain bouncy, youthful skin.”

Indeed, the Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum is a humectant powerhouse with four Hyaluronic Acid molecules for a more evenly dispersed humectant benefit throughout the skin’s upper layers.

But, as the name indicates, it’s much more than a natural hydrating serum with Hyaluronic Acid. There are three peptides in the formula at surprisingly high concentrations. Ingredients six through eight are Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-28. Peptides aren’t cheap and you rarely see them listed high on an INCI.

Peptides are portions of amino acids, or proteins that are naturally occurring in the skin. And they are essential for strong, healthy skin. While there are dozens of peptides with varying benefits for the skin, the right ones can improve your skin’s resiliency and maintain a firm, youthful plumpness.


What are Peptides in Skincare and What Do Peptides Do for Skin?

Of course, there’s a superbly insightful article on the Paula’s Choice website from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team. Titled What Are Peptides and What Do They Do for Your Skin?, the article goes deep into everything from what peptides are to how they benefit the skin — and what makes them among the best anti-aging skincare ingredients.

Peptides are one of the most talked-about ingredients in the field of anti-ageing skincare. When applied to your skin, they demonstrate remarkable benefits, revitalising your skin and making it more resilient and stronger. But peptides do not possess magical properties, as some brands claim. The fact is that there is no single ingredient that will address all the signs of skin ageing - and peptides are no exception. Peptides are a great asset to your skin, but it’s best to be realistic in your expectations to avoid disappointment. Peptides have amazing benefits for skin but the results will never be the same as a cosmetic procedure.

What are Peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks of proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin. These proteins are the foundations of your skin and are responsible for its texture, strength and resilience. Without peptides, our skin is less intact which can lead to a loss of firmness, the appearance of wrinkles, a change in texture and less ‘bounce’. 

When applied topically to the skin, peptides act as little messengers, triggering skin cells to perform specific functions such as building collagen and elastin, encouraging skin to look and act younger.

Extensive scientific research has proven that peptides can support your skin on multiple levels, for example firming, soothing and hydrating the skin.


In addition to its complex of firming peptides and multiple forms of Hyaluronic Acid, the Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum formula contains a slew of botanical extracts that double as hydrators and antioxidants.

Among the most notable of its hydrating natural extracts are Watermelon Fruit Extract, Apple Fruit Extract, and Prickly Pear Cactus Extract — which, according to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team is not only a potent antioxidant, but “also contains polyunsaturated fatty acids and amino acids which deliver replenishing and hydrating benefits to skin.”

Youth To The People’s Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum has a lovely texture that’s slightly thicker than water; it’s not as pulpy as I expected. The serum literally absorbs instantly into the skin, soaked up within seconds. Of course, my skin is drier than at any other time of the year and it soaks up anything I apply to it!

Again, the Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum couldn’t have come at a better time.


What I like about it: The Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum is a superb vegan, natural formula and a humectant powerhouse with four molecular sizes of Hyaluronic Acid for a more evenly dispersed humectant benefit throughout the skin’s upper layers. It’s perfect for the dry, dehydrating winter cold.

What I don’t like about it: At $54 for one ounce, the Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum is not exactly affordable and, thus, out of reach of most skincare users, which bums me out because it’s so good for the skin.

Who it’s for: All skin types, even oily or acne-prone.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum for $54 here.



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The Ingredient List of the Youth To The People Triple Peptide + Cactus Hydrating + Firming Oasis Serum:


The Ingredient List of the Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%:


The Ingredient List of the Purito DermHA-3 Serum:

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