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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

THE BEST SKINCARE ROUTINE FOR OILY SKIN: MY PICKS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST, GLOSSIER, SKINFIX AND MORE - BEST TONER FOR CLOGGED PORES, BEST SUNSCREEN FOR OILY SKIN

THE BEST SKINCARE ROUTINE FOR OILY SKIN: MY PICKS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST, GLOSSIER, SKINFIX AND MORE - BEST TONER FOR CLOGGED PORES, BEST SUNSCREEN FOR OILY SKIN

Carmine Montalto
anti-aging, best anti-aging, anti-aging creams, clean beauty, face cream for dry skin, wrinkle cream, AM Regimen, AM ROUTINE, best sunscreen, clean sunscreen, Facial sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen for eyes, sunscreen for face, hyperpigmentation, face cream for oily skin, dark spots, clean skincare

I’ve been doing a lot of reflecting this summer. Whether it’s on my bike racing across the Brooklyn Bridge, chilling Upstate in a hammock, or sitting still for three hours getting bangin’ nail art done, I’ve had lots of time to think.

And one of the things I’ve been ruminating over is how much my skin changes in the summer — and particularly, on a super hot and humid July day.

I realize that while I’d classify my skin as relatively normal on most days of the year, in July and August, I’m as oily as it gets.

And, ironically, that’s a good thing! I know that people with oily skin often manage acne breakouts, and that does really suck. If there’s one thing we can all agree on, no matter our skin type, it’s that oily skin isn’t fun. If you’re human and have any recollection of your teenage years, you likely struggled with oily skin and every oily-skin concern imaginable, the most frustrating of which is acne.

But the longer your skin produces oil as you age, the better. The trick is to get the oil under control and keep your pores clear to prevent acne blemishes. Again, that’s important for everyone, no matter your skin type.

Throughout the year, I try dozens (sorry, hundreds!) of skincare products that may be best for oily skin yet may not necessarily be appropriate for my own skin. But during the summer, they suit me just fine — and give me the opportunity to test their efficacy for skin that’s oily year-round.

What Is Oily Skin and What Causes It?

There’s an excellent article on the causes and behaviors of oily skin, and solutions for mitigating the side-effects of excessive oiliness, from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled simply (and quite hilariously!), Help for Oily Skin.

It begins with an expression of true compassion that I find super cool:

If you struggle with the daily annoyance of a face that resembles an oil slick (something our founder Paula has struggled with herself for years), you know how difficult it is to get oily skin under control. Adding to the frustration, whether you know it or not, is the fact that that many of the products claiming to get rid of oil actually make matters worse because they contain ingredients that aggravate skin and trigger more oily shine. We’re here to help—armed with the research-backed facts for what really works.

I had forgotten that my muse, Paula Begoun, was herself an oily skin warrior in the early years of her mission to uncover the truth about skin, skincare and skincare ingredients.

An excerpt from the Paula’s Choice article on oily skin:

Understanding Oily Skin

Oily skin is hard to control because it's something we’re born with, kicking in sometime in our teen years or randomly as we age. Having oily skin is the same as being born with the predisposition for having thick hair or how tall you will be; you can’t stop those things any more than you can stop oily skin. 

For those of us with super oily skin, it may be hard to believe a normal balanced oil flow from the pore does good things for skin. For example, it relieves dryness, maintains a healthy skin surface, and keeps skin pliable.

Oily skin obviously becomes maddening when too much oil is produced. This causes pores to become enlarged as they’re stretched beyond capacity to handle the amounts of oil being generated. It gets worse as the pore lining thickens, which blocks oil from getting to skin’s surface, resulting in blackheads and white bumps.

One myth to bust: Oily skin does not age less than dry skin. Oily skin may look less wrinkled because it is often less dry, but the cause of wrinkles is not something oily skin can stop or change. 

If you’re curious, the article, Help for Oily Skin, goes into great detail including a recommendation on how to fix oily skin. Again, you can read the full piece here.

There are numerous products, too, that traverse skin type. Actives like Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid are for everyone with skin.

So I thought I’d pull together some of my favorite products that I consider ideal for an oily skin type — including the best toner for clogged pores, the best matte sunscreen for oily skin, and even the best Vitamin C serum for oily skin and blemish prone skin. Yes, there are forms of Vitamin C that are most beneficial for oily and acne-prone skins!

I’ve come up with a complete eight-product skincare regimen — from a cleansing gel to sunscreens for both face and eyes. For each product snapshot below, I’ve included important insights, key product and ingredient benefits, and the reasons why I think it’s ideal for oily skin (and the rest of us in summer).

Feel welcome to drop any questions in the comment section at the bottom of the article or you can DM me on my Instagram page here or TikTok channel here.

Let’s have a look at what I consider the best skincare routine for oily skin…

THE BEST CLEANSER FOR OILY SKIN

The Inkey List | Salicylic Acid Cleanser

I love a good cleanser. I love cleansing balms, cleansing oils and cleansing powders. But on a hot, humid summer day, I want something light that can get deep into my pores and keep them fresh and clear.

Clogged pores are the root of all evil when it comes to skin conditions like dullness, rough skin texture, acne and other forms of irritation. Keeping your pores clear of hardened sebum, dirt, bacteria, and pollutants is essential to maintaining optimally healthy skin.

Clogged pores appear larger and are one of two causes of enlarged pores; the other being age-related. As we age, our pores tend to stretch and sag with the rest of our skin, causing pores to expand.

Deep cleaning your pores takes a combination of Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid. And a Salicylic Acid cleanser is ideal for skin subjected to the summer heat. Flushing out pores of sweat, grime and gunk is one of the key benefits of Salicylic Acid — a potent beta hydroxy acid (BHA). The best skincare ingredient for oily and acne-prone skin, Salicylic Acid is a multi-beneficial active that can help maintain skin health day in and day out.

The experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team describe Salicylic Acid this way:

Its primary benefit is as an exfoliant, helping shed dead skin in a way similar to how skin acts when we are younger.

Because it has the ability to penetrate into the pore lining and exfoliate inside the pore as well as on the surface of skin, it is especially effective for reducing breakouts, including blackheads and whiteheads.

In addition to these benefits, salicylic acid also has soothing properties to calm aggravated skin, can help minimize the appearance of an uneven skin tone, and has hydrating abilities that can result in smoother skin.

A good Salicylic Acid-powered cleanser is a must and The Inkey List’s Salicylic Acid Cleanser is one of my favorite summer cleansers — and among the best cleansers for oily skin with Salicylic Acid.

Inkey’s Salicylic Acid Cleanser goes the distance. The fact that it costs just about $10 makes it gold in my book. It has a very lightly foaming effect that won’t strip the skin, something that can make skin overcompensate for the loss of vital oils by producing even more oil.

This cleanser works for oily skin by breaking up surface oils and getting deep into pores where the Salicylic Acid helps to soften and dislodge the hardened sebum that can trap dirt, bacteria and pollutants.

With a Salicylic Acid level of about 1%, it’s not too harsh for any skin type — including the oiliest and the driest. In fact, as a cleanser, most if not all of the formula should wash right down the drain along with the gunk from your pores.

PRODUCTS I'M INTO: NEW STUFF FROM THE INKEY LIST - BEST EXFOLIATING SERUM WITH MANDELIC ACID

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What I like about it: The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Cleanser is really the perfect face cleanser for oily skin — and all skin types in the summer.

Why it’s best for oily skin: Like all skin, oily skin benefits from Salicylic Acid in multiple ways. The lightly foaming effect won’t strip the skin, which can make the skin overcompensate by producing more oil. That squeaky clean thing? The worst thing you can do for your skin. With its 1% concentration of Salicylic Acid, it can get deep into pores to soften and dislodge the hardened sebum that traps acne-causing dirt and bacteria.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Cleanser for $10.99 here.

The Ingredient List of The Inkey List Salicylic Acid Cleanser:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

THE BEST TONER FOR OILY SKIN

Paula’s Choice | Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant

Quite simply, the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is the OG of exfoliating acid toners. It also happens to be the brand’s top-selling product worldwide. In fact, one Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is sold every sixty seconds.

Many people swear by the stuff. Me included. Essential to my daily pore maintenance routine, I use the Salicylic Acid-powered Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant twice-daily to keep my pores fresh and clear. Even if your skin isn’t oily or acne-prone, Salicylic Acid is an ideal active for enhancing skin health. Paired with Niacinamide, the two work in tandem to dislodge sebum and clear out pores, preventing acne blemishes.

With a pH of about 4, the Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is in the optimal range for the formula’s Salicylic Acid to work wonders both on and in the skin. Whether you have oily skin or not, this gently exfoliating toner is essential for your skin health.

It’s a relatively simple formula — with just eight ingredients in all. Among them, is a two-percent concentration of tried-and-true, clogged pore-busting Salicylic Acid; power antioxidant Green Tea Leaf Extract; and hydrating Methylpropanediol — which enhances the penetration of the Salicylic Acid into the skin.

If you aren’t incorporating a Salicylic Acid treatment into your daily regimen, the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is the ideal way to do so. Get yourself a bottle and slot it into your AM and/or PM routine right after cleansing and toning — before the application of water-based serums.

Trust me, you’ll see a difference within days.

Best Paula’s Choice Products

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What I like about it: I firmly believe the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant should be a part of every skincare routine, whether your skin is oily or not. It’s the perfect way to incorporate Salicylic Acid into your regimen. The silky formula is quickly absorbed by the skin and while it gets deep into pores to soften and dislodge hardened sebum, it also delivers a mild exfoliating effect that brightens and smooths the skin.

Why it’s best for oily skin: What oily skin needs most is for pores to be as fresh and clear as possible. Balance is essential and the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is ideal for its pore-clearing, balancing and soothing benefits.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant for $32 here.

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

THE BEST RETINOL FOR OILY SKIN

Skin Proud | Recharge Overnight 0.5% Retinol Serum

Essential to what I consider an ideal skincare routine to support healthy skin is what I refer to as the “ABC’s” – where A indicates Vitamin A (Retinol), B indicates Vitamin B (or B3, Niacinamide) and C indicates Ascorbic Acid aka Vitamin C.

At the heart of every pro-skin health regimen should be the ABC’s, the three vitamin actives in the form of a dedicated face serum – a product format that is lighter, easily layered and quickly absorbed by the skin. Whether your skin is oily, combination, dry or acne-prone, there’s a Retinol serum, a Niacinamide serum, and a Vitamin C serum for you.

When it comes to Retinol and oily skin, mild is best as the skin can be easily aggravated and sensitized. And, many oily skins also struggle with acne, a form of irritation in itself. IMO the best Retinol serum for oily skin contains the most gentle of the retinoids, Retinyl Palmitate.

This form of Vitamin A is created by combining Retinol, or pure Vitamin A, and palmitic acid – a saturated fatty acid derived from palm oil. Retinyl Palmitate is already naturally occurring in the skin. Because of the lengthy conversion process required within the skin, it’s the least effective of the retinoids. Yet as the weakest form, it’s also the most well-tolerated.

Retinyl Palmitate gets a bad rap and is on the clean beauty ingredient hit lists of both Sephora and Credo, meaning a formula that contains it cannot be classified as “clean”. So what! According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, the claims that it’s unsafe are “based on a study from nearly 20 years ago that has never been reproduced or tested under real-life conditions such as how people use sunscreens that contain this ingredient.”

The Skin Proud Recharge Overnight 0.5% Retinol Serum is formulated with a 0.5% concentration of Retinyl Palmitate. The Overnight 0.5% Retinol Serum has a super lightweight texture and contains several skin soothers, including Bisabolol, the active component of soothing chamomile. There’s only a small amount of oil in the formula, making it suitable for oily skin.

And it’s just $14.50! The only drawback to Skin Proud’s Recharge Overnight 0.5% Retinol Serum is the inclusion of a small amount of fragrance. If your skin is sensitive to fragrance, give this a pass. I invite you to explore my top picks of the best Retinol serums and creams on the blog here.

What Is Retinol and What Does Retinol Do for the Skin?

It’s commonly accepted that Retinol and retinoids, more specifically, are the gold standard in anti-aging. Like Vitamin C and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), the Vitamin A derivative has multiple pro-skin health, anti-aging benefits. Among them are the smoothing of lines and wrinkles, potent antioxidant defense and visible skin firming. As with Niacinamide, topical retinoids — as all derivatives of Vitamin A are referred to — can even minimize the appearance of pores and defend skin against aging environmental damage.

There’s a superb piece on retinoids by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, The Complete Guide To Retinol: The Anti-Aging (And Anti-Acne) Hero — which you can catch here. Here is what I found most salient:

Retinol is classified as a Cell-Communicating Ingredient, which means that it can tell a skin cell how to behave. Retinol ‘tells’ developing skin cell in the lower layers of the skin – called the dermis, to develop normally, instead of a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell. This is how, over time, Retinol can address multiple skin concerns.

Another way Retinol works is also by telling the older cells in the upper layer of skin to die quicker which in turn allows the newer, healthier skin to surface faster. This quicker skin cell turnover rate, paired with cell communicating abilities is what makes Retinol such a superstar!

There are many derivatives and strengths of retinoids available in both over-the-counter (OTC) and prescription products today. The term “Retinol” is the name of the purest form of Vitamin A, and used most often to refer to the non-prescription version of Retinoids.

However, Retinol itself is not active. It has to go through a conversion process in the skin to get to the active form which is then usable by the skin.

Retinyl Palmitate –> Retinol — > Retinaldehyde –> All-Trans-Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)

RETINOL, RETINOIDS, RETINOIC ACID PART ONE: BEST RETINOL SERUMS, BEST RETINOL CREAMS

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What I like about it: The Skin Proud Recharge Overnight 0.5% Retinol Serum is not a perfect Retinol serum. If you’re looking for something really potent, this isn’t it. But if you’re looking for a gentle Retinol serum for oily skin, this baby may be ideal for your skin. I love its 0.5% concentration of Retinyl Palmitate — the gentlest of the retinoids. If Retinol tolerance has been a concern in the past, a Retinol serum or cream like this one is bound to be effective for you.

Why it’s best for oily skin: It contains only a tiny amount of oil and, with the gentlest form of the retinoids, won’t irritate oily skin or make sensitized skin even worse.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Skin Proud Recharge Overnight 0.5% Retinol Serum for $14.50 here.

The Ingredient List of the Skin Proud Recharge Overnight 0.5% Retinol Serum:

Aqua (Water), Propanediol, Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Retinyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Tocopheryl Acetate, Betaine, Bisabolol, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-cresol, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Propylene Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Farnesol, Parfum (Fragrance), Methylpropanediol, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopherol, Bakuchiol, Iris Florentina Flower Extract, Benzyl Salicylate.

THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM FOR OILY SKIN

Paula’s Choice | 10% Niacinamide Booster Serum

At the core of my skincare routine is what I consider the best anti-aging treatment on Earth: the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster. There are few skincare ingredients that I consider as indispensable as Niacinamide. While I had heard of the form of Vitamin B3, I hadn’t actively used it in my skincare routine until the advent of the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster — the first serum of its kind on the market.

Five years later and a 10% concentration of Niacinamide is considered the gold standard and table stakes for a truly active Niacinamide serum. Paula’s Choice recently introduced a 20% concentration, the Niacinamide 20% Treatment which I’ve tried and like. But there’s just something about the OG 10% Niacinamide Booster that I can’t give up. I go through a bottle of it every two weeks.

(If interested, I reviewed the Paula’s Choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment on the blog here.)

Whichever of the two you try, or perhaps you prefer a less expensive Niacinamide treatment like The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, it is essential that you incorporate a Niacinamide serum into your daily skincare routine. Another affordable, well-formulated option is the Glossier’s Super Pure Niacinamide + Zinc Serum.

PRODUCT REVIEW: THE ORDINARY NIACINAMIDE 10% + ZINC 1% – BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN

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What is Niacinamide and What Does Niacinamide Do for the Skin?

There’s a rather comprehensive article on Niacinamide by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled simply, How Niacinamide Helps Skin. Here’s what I found most helpful:

How Niacinamide Helps Skin

Niacinamide is a skin care ingredient worthy of your attention and your skin will love you for using it. Among a handful of other amazing skin care ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C, niacinamide is a standout because of its versatility for almost any skin care concern and skin type.

As many of you know about us, but for those who don’t, the conclusions we make about any ingredient are always based on what the published research has shown to be true—and the research about niacinamide unanimously demonstrates how special it is. New research keeps showing it’s one of the most exciting skin care ingredients around.

What is Niacinamide?

Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinamide, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that works with the natural substances in your skin to help visibly minimize enlarged pores, tighten lax pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles, diminish dullness, and strengthen a weakened surface.

Niacinamide also reduces the impact of environmental damage because of its ability to improve skin’s barrier (its first line of defense), plus it also plays a role in helping skin to repair signs of past damage. Left unchecked, this type of daily assault makes skin appear older, dull, and less radiant.

Why You Should Use Niacinamide

As you might have gathered, we’re very impressed with all that niacinamide can do for skin when applied via skin care products like toners, serums, and highly concentrated leave-on treatments. Niacinamide is uniquely compatible with any of the products in your skin care routine, including those that contain retinol, peptides, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHA, vitamin C, and all types of antioxidants.

You can use multiple niacinamide-containing products in your routine, and it will still be non-sensitizing as this ingenious B vitamin is well tolerated by all skin types. It’s even suitable for use by those with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.

Other helpful benefits of niacinamide are that it helps renew and restore the surface of skin against moisture loss and dehydration by helping skin improve its natural production of skin-strengthening ceramides. When ceramides become depleted over time, skin is left vulnerable to all sorts of problems, from persistent patches of dry, flaky skin to increasingly becoming extra-sensitive.

If you struggle with dry skin, topical application of niacinamide has been shown to boost the hydrating ability of moisturizers so skin’s surface can better resist the moisture loss that leads to recurrent dry, tight, flaky skin. Niacinamide works brilliantly with common moisturizer ingredients like glycerin, non-fragrant plant oils, cholesterol, sodium PCA, and sodium hyaluronate.

How does niacinamide help pores? Great question, although the answer here isn’t certain. Simply put, research hasn’t come to a full understanding about how this B vitamin works its pore-reducing magic, but it does! It seems that niacinamide has a normalizing ability on the pore lining, and that this influence plays a role in keeping debris from getting backed up, which leads to clogs and rough, bumpy skin. As the clog forms and worsens, the pores stretch to compensate, and what you’ll see is enlarged pores. By helping things get back to normal, niacinamide use helps pores return to their normal size. Sun damage can cause pores to become stretched, too, leading to what some describe as "orange peel skin". Higher concentrations of niacinamide can help visibly tighten pores by shoring up skin’s supportive elements.

I use a Niacinamide serum every day, twice a day — in both my AM and PM routines. And every time I talk about Niacinamide, I feel the duty to impress upon readers its indispensable qualities and remarkable benefits for the skin.

Niacinamide has perhaps the broadest range of pro-skin health benefits I’ve seen in an active ingredient – even more than Vitamin C and Retinol. Among them are the ability to strengthen the skin barrier, antioxidant defense against environmental skin aging, clearing clogged pores, and brightening and evening out the complexion. If your skin is oily, Niacinamide will even help to regulate and balance sebum production. There is even emerging evidence that Niacinamide can help to defend the skin from blue light.

And the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide serum is one of the most well-rounded serums available. The formula goes beyond just the brightening potency and pore-flushing benefits of Niacinamide alone. It’s also formulated with Ascorbyl Glucoside, a form of Vitamin C, and Sodium Hyaluronate, the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid, at very high levels.

Interestingly, Ascorbyl Glucoside and Niacinamide are true BFFs. Considered a stable form of Vitamin C when combined with Glucose, Ascorbyl Glucoside converts to Ascorbic Acid, the pure form of Vitamin C, when absorbed by the skin.

Can you use Vitamin C and Niacinamide together? Yes, yes, and yes. The idea that the two don’t work well together – or somehow cancel each other out – is a myth. Read more about why they work so well in combination from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team here.

NIACINAMIDE IS THE GAME CHANGER YOU NEED TO DEFEND AGAINST SKIN DAMAGE AND MAINTAIN OPTIMAL SKIN HEALTH

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While it’s a true powerhouse for skin, the 10% Niacinamide Booster has also got a super watery texture (as light as water itself!) that makes it super easy to layer into any skincare routine.

And, it works so well in the Skincarma ABC’s that I believe it should be at the core of every regimen; that is, Vitamin A (Retinol/Bakuchiol), Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and Vitamin C. You can’t go wrong if you stick to that — and it’s easy to remember at night when the last thing you want to think about is the application order of multiple serums. Cleanse, tone, ABC, moisturize and go to bed!

At $46, 10% Niacinamide Booster is one of the pricier options for Niacinamide serums, but I believe it’s well worth the money. After all, it’s the best anti-aging serum on Earth!

WATCH VIDEO REVIEW OF

THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUMS FOR CLOGGED PORES AND A BRIGHTER COMPLEXION

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE

What I like about it: The Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster is a perfectly well-rounded treatment serum and a real skincare gem. In my opinion, a 10% concentration of Niacinamide is ideal. This serum is so watery it couldn’t get any easier to layer into your existing skincare routine. I credit my consistent use of this serum with the exceptional health of my skin and my bright, healthy looking complexion.

Why it’s best for oily skin: For oily skin, it’s simply perfect for clearing out pores and regulating sebum production. You can’t go wrong. For other options, check out my top picks of the best Niacinamide serums on the blog here.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster for $46 here.

The Ingredient List of the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Best Niacinamide Serums and Treatments

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THE BEST VITAMIN C SERUM FOR OILY SKIN

Glossier | Super Glow Vitamin C + Magnesium Serum

I spent much of 2021 exploring Glossier and the brand’s most sought-after products. Admittedly, I’ve liked everything I’ve experienced. In particular, the Glossier Solution Exfoliating Skin Perfector has become one of my favorite exfoliating toners to brighten a dull complexion.

But perhaps the product that’s brought me the most satisfaction is Glossier’s Super Pure Niacinamide + Zinc Serum. In the grand scheme of things Niacinamide, it’s not the most potent, the most effective, or the best Niacinamide serum available. But it was my go-to Niacinamide serum for oily skin on the hottest summer days last year.

One of Glossier’s most popular products, Super Pure is a relatively simple formula — with just 10 ingredients in the entire INCI. At $29, it’s a solid formula for the price and especially beneficial for oily or acne-prone skin.

PRODUCT REVIEW: GLOSSIER SUPER PURE NIACINAMIDE + ZINC SERUM - BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM FOR OILY SKIN

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And, the Glossier Super Glow Vitamin C serum is an equally uncomplicated formula – but with a lot more intrigue. Super Glow is formulated with one of two forms of Vitamin C that are particularly beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate.

According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate delivers all the expected benefits of Vitamin C, including the ability to improve the look of an uneven skin tone, deliver antioxidant defense against skin-aging environmental attacks, and treat discolorations, including post-breakout marks.

But it’s the ability of Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate to moderate an oil-based saccharide that can irritate skin and help to reduce acne breakouts that make it especially beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin.

THE BEST FRESH ACTIVATED VITAMIN C SERUMS TO GET YOUR COMPLEXION LIT IN THE NEW YEAR

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What Is Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and What Is the Best Vitamin C for Oily Skin?

There are multiple forms of Vitamin C, including pure Ascorbic Acid. Vitamin C formulas have come a long way since the introduction of the SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic two decades ago. C E Ferulic was one of the first Vitamin C serums stabilized at a high concentration for superior efficacy.

There are two forms of Vitamin C that are considered optimal for oily skin; they are Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate. Both have an effect of sebum production, skin irritation and the occurrence of acne breakouts.

There’s an excellent article on Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team that you can catch here. This is what I found most insightful:

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP, for short) is a water-soluble form of vitamin C made by combining ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C) with a magnesium salt to improve its stability in water-based formulas. It is considered stable in the presence of light and air but is not impervious to diminished efficacy when exposure to both elements is persistent.

Unlike other water-soluble forms of vitamin C, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is also lipophilic, or oil-loving, which improves penetration into skin (although how well this form converts to ascorbic acid within skin is up for debate). Because of its oil-loving nature and its ability to promote hydration deeper in skin when compared to ascorbic acid (which instead showed greater antioxidant ability), MAP is considered one of the most hydrating forms of vitamin C.

Like most forms of vitamin C, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate has been shown to improve the look of an uneven skin tone when used in concentrations between 2-5%. Concentrations between 5-10% are known to have more pronounced benefits for discolorations, including post-breakout marks, as well as improving skin’s firm look and feel. Amounts below 2% all the way down to 0.1% still deliver antioxidant benefits.

This form of vitamin C may play a special role in reducing the likelihood of blemishes since its soothing action helps quell an oil-based saccharide that can irritate skin.

The Super Glow formula also contains pure mineral magnesium in the form of Magnesium PCA. Minerals are an unsung hero when it comes to optimizing skin hydration and defending against dehydration. Minerals like magnesium and zinc can help to regulate water flow throughout the skin layers to balance hydration levels and optimize skin health.

There are also multiple replenishing non-fragrant plant oils in the Super Glow formula at a signifiant level, among them Jojoba Seed Oil, Shea Butter and Sunflower Seed Oil. That may sound counter-intuitive for an oily skin type, but the blend means the Super Glow Vitamin C + Magnesium Serum is also an effective daily moisturizer for oilier skin types.

What I like about it: The Glossier Super Glow Vitamin C + Magnesium Serum is a simple formula that packs a punch. At $29, it’s quite a solid face serum for oily skin, dry skin and all skins in between. I’m obsessed with its silky, milky texture and blend of non-fragrant plant oils that make it a perfectly effective moisturizer with Vitamin C for a hot summer day.

Why it’s best for oily skin: It contains a combination of Magnesium PCA and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, a form of Vitamin C that’s particularly beneficial for oily and acne prone skin.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase Glossier Super Glow Vitamin C + Magnesium Serum for $29 here.

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THE BEST FACE CREAM FOR OILY SKIN

Skinfix | Barrier+ Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream

If you’ve been following me on my social channels, you likely know that I’m a huge fan of the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream — my favorite cold weather face cream and the best moisturizer for dry skin. Period. TLPC literally saves my skin from extreme dryness and dehydration throughout the cold, low-humidity months of winter.

What makes it so uniquely effective? Well, TLPC does something no other moisturizer can do: it replenishes depleted skin lipids like fatty acids and ceramides. These lipids are essential for keeping the skin barrier strong and preventing dehydrating trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL.

As well-formulated and effective for dry skin as it is, Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream is really rich and not for every one, or for every day of the year. When the temps warm up, it can be a bit much – even for me! You can catch my review of it on the blog here.

PRODUCT REVIEW: SKINFIX BARRIER+ TRIPLE LIPID-PEPTIDE FACE CREAM – BEST FACE CREAM FOR DRY SKIN

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So, I was so excited when Skinfix introduced a new, lighter face cream for oily skin and all skins in summer, the Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream! While it’s easy to think of it as a lightweight version of the iconic TLPC, it really isn’t. While it has a similar ability to strengthen the skin barrier, the Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream is a light gel-cream moisturizer formulated specifically for oily and acne-prone skin.

Skinfix’s new gel cream is clinically proven to strengthen skin barrier function in as little as an hour. In addition, it’s proven to deliver intense hydration for 72 hours to prevent TEWL, a skin concern shared by all skin types.

If you have human skin, trans-epidermal water loss, the leading cause of dehydration, should be a concern for you. Orpheus, my cat, doesn’t really need to worry about it, though.

What Is Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL)?

Trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL, is the leading cause of dehydration — insufficient water in the skin’s layers. Just as the body needs optimum amounts of water each day to survive, the skin needs water to function in an optimally healthy manner.

For a deep-dive into trans-epidermal water loss, there’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? It’s available to read here. In the piece, the author explains TEWL as follows:

“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).

While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.

Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”

Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream has a super light gel-cream texture that glides on easily and is immediately absorbed into the skin. The texture makes it the ideal face cream for oily skin and I suspect oily skin types would really appreciate the texture. While the texture isn’t unique as far as gel creams go, IMO it’s likely the best gel-cream moisturizer on the market.

Regrettably, it’s such a common misperception that oily skin doesn’t need moisture or oil. All human skin needs oil-based moisture. Even the slickest, greasiest, most uncomfortably icky skins! Depriving skin of moisture replenishment only exacerbates the problem and can even make skin oilier as it compensates for the oil deprivation throughout the day.

Beyond addressing skin’s basic needs, Skinfix took great pains to formulate a face cream for oily skins that would address the more unique needs of acne-prone and oilier skin types. In fact, one of the most interesting characteristics of their new gel-cream formula is what’s not in it, including many known triggers of fungal acne.

According to the brand, Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream is “free from a long list of ingredients including fragrance, silicone, dimethicone, parabens, sulfates, essential oils, formaldehyde, phthalates, lanolin, petrolatum, propylene glycol, PEGs, gluten and the many known triggers of malassezia folliculitis aka ‘fungal acne’.”

What’s even more intriguing to me about Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream is the inclusion of a powerful and unusual active, Saccharide Isomerate — a skin-similar sugar carbohydrate that binds skin cells together in a tight mesh to prevent TEWL. It’s this precise ingredient that delivers the formula’s sustained hydration benefit over for 72 hours.

If you have oily or acne-prone skin, give the new Skinfix Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream a try. And, if you have normal, combo, or moderately dry skin, it’s ideal for you as well in the summer.

What I like about it: The Skinfix Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream is as well-formulated as the brand’s iconic Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream. Both have legitimate clinically proven skin barrier-strengthening qualities. I love the new gel cream’s super lightweight texture, making it ideal for oily skin and all skin types in the warmer months.

Why it’s best for oily skin: It’s uniquely formulated without ingredients that can cause fungal acne to proliferate, making it one of the best face creams for acne-prone skin and oily skin.

Who it’s for: All skin types, but especially oily and/or acne prone skins.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Skinfix Skin Barrier Restoring Gel Cream for $48 here.

THE BEST SUNSCREEN FOR OILY SKIN

Bliss | Block Star Invisible Daily Sunscreen

I haven’t personally been a Bliss fan though I have followed the classic skincare brand as it was rebranded and repositioned to target a younger, Gen Z consumer. So I was eager to experience Bliss anew! And I’m happy to say that the Bliss Block Star Invisible Daily Sunscreen 100% mineral SPF for face is quite a solid formula. I have really enjoyed this mattifying sunscreen throughout the summer. Block Star seems to be ideal for oily skin and all skin types on a hot, humid day. It’s the mattifying effect and a skin-perfecting tint for me.

While I love a healthy glow as much as anyone, in the dog days of summer when heat and humidity are on full blast, the last thing I need or want is skincare that makes me glow even more! Standing on the subway platform waiting for the train in the middle of August is one of the most unpleasant experiences of every New Yorker. The air is stale and rancid. The heat is excruciating. And your face is a greasy mess.

So the Bliss Block Star Invisible Daily Sunscreen couldn’t have come at a better time. This summer, I like to think I’m grease-proofed!

Block Star is a 100% mineral sunscreen with 4.1% Titanium Dioxide and 11.5% Zinc Oxide for a solid SPF 30 coverage. Don’t be fooled by the whole “you gotta have an SPF 50 to really protect yourself from sun damage thing.” The difference in UV defense between SPF 30 and SPF 50 is negligible – just one percent.

The Best Sunscreens for Face

Explore Sunscreens

No Skincarma Blog review about sunscreen products and the importance of sun protection would be complete without mention of Jeanne and Susan, identical twin sisters.

Seriously, I can’t imagine a Skincarma Blog article about the best facial sunscreen products for the summer heat without an introduction to my friends Jeanne and Susan — identical twin sisters.

No, they're not my actual friends; in fact, we’ve never met. But I feel like I know them. As good friends would, they inspire me to be better — and to wear sunscreen every single day of the year. If you need proof of the very real effects of sun damage on your skin, look no further than these two ladies.

The sisters looked exactly alike growing up. But Susan has spent her life in Florida worshiping the sun (she’s also a heavy smoker!) while sister Jeanne lives in Ohio and has generally avoided overexposure to the sun (and smoking) throughout her life. While both were 61 when the adjacent photo was taken, a scientific study of Susan’s skin at Case Western Reserve University showed an 11-year age difference — Susan has extreme hyperpigmentation (sun spots), deeper wrinkles and degradation in skin elasticity. 

Be a Jeanne, not a Susan!

While the Bliss Block Star Invisible Daily Sunscreen doesn’t contain the robust antioxidant defense I’d prefer that it did, Bliss Block does contain a moderate blend of antioxidant botanicals. They’re just not in the top ten of the INCI and thus of little significance. If you’re using a dedicated Niacinamide serum like the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster, you’re sufficiently protected.

Much of the Block Star formula’s top ten is its two mineral sun filters and multiple forms of silicone. That’s not a deal-breaker for me, but I know a lot of people prefer to avoid them in their skincare. They do a lot to enhance the formula’s texture, but don’t have much of a benefit for the skin beyond preventing dehydration.

As I like to say, what’s important is that you find a daily facial sunscreen that you love so much you look forward to applying it. The Block Star is clean, full of pro-skin health actives, and has solid mineral sunscreen protection.

I love its matte finish and appreciate the smattering of replenishing plant oils like Squalane, Chamomile Flower Oil and Rose Hip Fruit Oil — one of the best anti-aging face oils. Regrettably, none of these beneficial oils, as with the antioxidant extracts in the formula, is at a significant level. However, they’re at the perfect level if you’re oily and that’s one of the factors that makes Block Star ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.

What I like about it: The Bliss Block Star Invisible Daily Sunscreen is a terrific mineral sunscreen for face with a mattifying effect that I really love. At just $25, it’s well-formulated for the price. I also really love the tint.

Why it’s best for oily skin: It has that mattifying effect that an oily skin type craves — and that the rest of us can appreciate on a hot summer day. No one wants to look greasy in public, me included!

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Bliss Block Star Invisible Daily Sunscreen for $25 here.

The Ingredient List of the Bliss Block Star Invisible Daily Sunscreen:

THE BEST SUNSCREEN FOR EYES

Solara Suncare | Go! Mineral Defense SPORT Ceramide Sunscreen Stick SPF 30

Solara Suncare’s Time Traveler Ageless Daily Face Sunscreen SPF 30 is one of my all-time favorite sunscreens for face. I first featured Time Traveler in a blog article on what I referred to at the time as my dream skincare routine titled, A Complete $175 Clean Skincare Routine with Herbivore, The Inkey List, Solara Suncare & More! That was more than three years ago!

I love the Solara Suncare brand — and the incredibly functional, well-formulated sunscreens that the brand’s founder, Stephanie DiPisa, has created. With clean formulas and elegant textures, the brand is reminiscent of the leader in sunscreen products for face and body, Supergoop!

So it was no surprise to me that the new Solara Suncare Go! Vacation Glow Illuminating Mineral Sunscreen that I reviewed in a recent blog article would be so exceptional and be among my top picks of tinted sunscreens for the summer months.

PRODUCT REVIEW: SOLARA SUNCARE GO! VACATION GLOW ILLUMINATING MINERAL SUNSCREEN

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As I said in my review, Solara’s Go! Vacation Glow reminds me of a BB cream with SPF. The new Vacation Glow is much, much more than a facial sunscreen. It’s infused with multiple pro-skin health ingredients at relatively active levels. The INCI’s top ten is loaded with water-binding humectants and two solid antioxidant botanicals, including Acai Fruit Extract, and tried-and-true Green Tea Leaf Extract — one of the best antioxidant ingredients in skincare.

Antioxidants are anti-aging and as essential to skin health as sunscreen actives like Zinc Oxide. Both should be key components in an effective daily anti-aging routine.

What’s the first place on the face to show signs of aging? The eye area! And the reason why we develop fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes before anywhere else on the face is two-fold: the skin around the eyes is thinnest and most of us make the mistake of not using sunscreen in the immediate eye area. That’s a double whammy!

The Best Sunscreens For Eyes

Explore Eye SPF

So I’m always on the hunt for great eye SPF products. Among my long-time favorites are the SkinCeuticals Physical Eye UV Defense SPF 50 and the MDSolarSciences Mineral Tinted Sunscreen Stick SPF 30. Both are ideal for the eye area with thick formula textures that stay put and don’t bleed into the eyes – the main reason people don’t wear sunscreen in the eye area.

I get it. It burns!

But the solution isn’t and can’t be not using sunscreen around the eyes. The solution is to find an eye area sunscreen that doesn’t migrate into the eyes. The Solara Suncare Go! Mineral Defense SPORT Ceramide Sunscreen Stick SPF 30 is the perfect option.

While the Mineral Defense SPORT Ceramide Sunscreen Stick isn’t marketed by the brand as an SPF for the eye area, it’s kind of the whole package — accidentally. The super wide, rounded stick first perfectly inside the orbital bone for an easy, comfortable application.

With 20% non-nano Zinc Oxide, Solara’s Mineral Defense SPORT Ceramide Sunscreen Stick offers SPF 30 protection for the delicate skin around the eyes. Is SPF 30 enough? Yes, it is. It’s a common misperception that you’re not doing enough to protect your skin, whether around your eyes or over your entire face, with anything less than an SPF 50.

The truth is, there’s a minimal difference between the level of UVB rays blocked by SPF 30 and SPF 50. It’s literally something like one percent. (Of course, anything is a step up from not using sunscreen at all!)

In addition to its mineral sun filter, the Solara Suncare Mineral Defense SPORT Ceramide Sunscreen Stick is infused with multiple pro-skin health actives which moisturize and replenish the thinner skin around the eyes. Thinner skin also retains water less effectively, meaning dehydration is a more serious concern in the eye area. Hence, the appearance of “fine dehydration lines” around the eyes.

The Best Summer Sunscreen for Eyes!

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What’s the percentage of UV rays blocked by sunscreen?

SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays

SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays

SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays.

So, the difference in UV rays blocked by SPF 30 and SPF 50 is about 1 percent.

The first ingredient after Zinc Oxide in the INCI is Coco-caprylate, which according to the experts in the Paula’s Choice Research Team “is the mixture of esters that occur when the fatty alcohols derived from coconut alcohol reacts with the fatty acid caprylic acid.” Also in the top five are moisturizing Jojoba Esters, Jojoba Seed Oil, and Sunflower Seed Oil.

With two waxes, the sun stick has a firmer, denser texture that adheres to the skin and stays put after application so it never bleeds into the eyes — unless you rub it! And, perhaps my favorite characteristic is its slightly iridescent hue that helps to brighten the look of dark circles under the eyes.

The one drawback to the formula is the inclusion of a tiny amount of fragrant plant oils in the form of Tangerine Oil and Orange Oil. It smells great, but if you have an extreme sensitivity to fragrance and essential oils, I’d skip it.

Me? I’m literally obsessed with it!

What I like about it: The Solara Suncare Go! Mineral Defense SPORT Ceramide Sunscreen Stick SPF 30 is my favorite new eye cream with SPF. While it’s not marketed for the eye area, it’s literally perfect. The rounded applicator fits perfectly inside the orbital bone. It’s loaded with pro-skin health actives and its slightly iridescent hue is ideal for brightening dark circles. What a dream!

Why it’s best for oily skin: It’s actually ideal for all skin types, oily skin among them. Since most people don’t have an oily eye area (the skin around the eyes is too thin to hold oil), the concern is really about protecting the delicate skin around the eyes from UV damage.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Solara Suncare Go! Mineral Defense SPORT Ceramide Sunscreen Stick SPF 30 for $16 here.

That’s it guys! Thanks for checking in on the Skincarma Blog! Whether you have seasonally oily skin or oily skin year round, I hope I’ve helped you to discover some of the best face serums for oily skin, the perfect cleanser for a hot summer day — and even a mattifying sunscreen that keeps your skin fresh and clear.

See you next week…

💟 Carmine @skincarma

The Ingredient List of the Solara Suncare Go! Mineral Defense SPORT Ceramide Sunscreen Stick SPF 30:

Active: Non-Nano Zinc Oxide, 20%

Inactive: Coco-Caprylate, Beeswax/Cera Alba*, Jojoba Esters, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Lauryl Laurate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Dihydroabietate, Stearyl/Octyldodecyl Citrate Crosspolymer,  Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Ceramide NG, Ceramide NP,  Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Silica, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Tocopherol

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