SKINCARMA-HatMark.jpg

Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

NEED AN AFFORDABLE COMPLEXION REBOOT? ADD THE NATURIUM AZELAIC TOPICAL ACID 10% AND NATURIUM NIACINAMIDE ESSENCE 3% TO YOUR ROUTINE! - BEST AZELAIC ACID SERUM, WHAT IS AZELAIC ACID GOOD FOR?

NEED AN AFFORDABLE COMPLEXION REBOOT? ADD THE NATURIUM AZELAIC TOPICAL ACID 10% AND NATURIUM NIACINAMIDE ESSENCE 3% TO YOUR ROUTINE! - BEST AZELAIC ACID SERUM, WHAT IS AZELAIC ACID GOOD FOR?

I began to explore Naturium’s accessible, well-formulated skincare about a year ago – and today appreciate several of the brand’s products. In fact, a few Naturium serums and facial oils have made it into my regular skincare routines.

Among these are the $20 Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum and Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5% – one of the best hydrating serums that I’ve come across for the money ($16!).

Both of these supremely pro-skin health treatments have been reviewed on the Skincarma Blog previously. I invite you to catch my review of the Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5% on the blog here and browse my picks of the best Vitamin C serums for face, including Naturium’s Vitamin C Complex Serum, on the blog here.

Even if you haven’t had the chance to try anything from Naturium yet, you’ve probably noticed the brand’s products popping up on your social media channels. Naturium is suddenly everywhere! Since I first discovered it last summer, Naturium has become one of the most popular skincare brands – with some of the best products for oily skin, including one of the best Niacinamide serums and perhaps the best Azelaic Acid serum. (More on that one below!)

The Best Vitamin C Serums & Face Creams

What is Naturium all about? Well, it’s a clean, affordable skincare brand with the kind of “single-note” serums that have been popularized by brands like The Ordinary and The Inkey List. They offer products similar to The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 and The INKEY List’s Tranexamic Acid Hyperpigmentation Treatment – one of the most innovative (and affordable!) brightening serums of the past year.

Don’t know where to start? How about Naturium’s Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2%? It’s one of their best sellers! I included it in a blog article on my latest Niacinamide finds, titled, Niacinamide Serums To Get Your Complexion Going And Glowing. With a solid concentration of 12% Niacinamide and 2% Zinc, it’s easily among the best brightening serums for oily-prone and acne-prone skin. If you’re curious, you can read my review of it here.

PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM NIACINAMIDE SERUM 12% PLUS ZINC 2% - BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUM OILY SKIN

Two Naturium products that really stand out for me are ideal for oily skin – and great for rebooting all skins on the skin-type spectrum – from very oily to very dry and everywhere in between.

At just $16, Naturium’s Niacinamide Essence 3% is so accessible and easily slotted into any skincare routine that it’s almost crazy to not have it as a part of your daily regimen. I’ve been through several bottles of the Niacinamide Essence 3% since coming across it a year ago. With its moderate 3% concentration of Niacinamide, it’s what I term a brightening toner and is such pleasure to use.

The Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% is one of those skincare products that I wish more people knew about – and would incorporate into their daily skincare routines. A good skincare routine should promote skin heath and, like Niacinamide, Azelaic Acid can have serious benefits for everyone’s skin.

Think of Naturium’s $20 Azelaic Topical Acid 10% as a skin-health reboot. The formula’s 10% Azelaic Acid is combined with Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Coffee Seed Extract and Sodium Hyaluronate for a well-rounded treatment that helps clear out pores, moderate sebum production, calm irritation, brighten the complexion – and, with its potent antioxidant cocktail, defend skin against environmental damage. You really couldn’t ask for more from a $20 skincare product!

Let’s take a deep dive into these two Naturium products that have the power to reboot your complexion – and your skin health…

Naturium | Azelaic Topical Acid 10%

As I’ve said, the Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% is a wonderful treatment for rebooting your skin health and kicking up your skin game a notch. At just $20, it’s packed with pro-skin health actives that all human skin can benefit from – whether you’re oily, dry, or somewhere in between.

To start, you may be wondering what Azelaic Acid is. As it’s relatively new in skincare, you can be forgiven for not being entirely familiar with its exceptional benefits.

Azelaic Acid is a type of acid known as a dicarboxylic acid derived from grains that offers numerous pro-skin health benefits. Among its many properties, it’s a gentle leave-on exfoliant which helps unclog pores and refine skin texture, not unlike Niacinamide. Azelaic acid can also significantly reduce factors that can lead to redness and sensitivity in the skin. And, like Vitamin C and Niacinamide, Azelaic acid is also a superb antioxidant that helps protect the skin from environmental damage.

PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM QUADRUPLE HYALURONIC ACID SERUM 5%


What Is Azelaic Acid and What Is Azelaic Acid Good for?

Azelaic Acid is one of those hidden gem ingredients that’s been recently repositioned as a highly effective, reliable substance for promoting skin health. It’s not a new ingredient, but it’s newly used in skincare. And like Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid, which are both oily skin essentials, anyone can use Azelaic Acid.

There’s a super article by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, on the numerous pro-skin health benefits of Azelaic Acid. Here’s what I found most interesting:

Azelaic acid was once one of the best kept secrets in skin care, mostly known in medical and professional settings. Now it’s one of the more highly sought-after ingredients thanks to undeniable research demonstrating how it significantly diminishes the appearance of skin blemishes, helps fade post-acne marks + other discolorations, refines skin’s surface, and even reduces skin sensitivity. In short, azelaic acid is an ingredient you need to know about.

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a skin-friendly dicarboxylic acid with unique properties that deliver:

  • Mild exfoliating action that helps unclog pores and refine skin's surface

  • Skin tone evening properties to visibly fade post-acne marks and other discolorations

  • Significant skin-calming factors to reduce sensitivity and bumps

  • Antioxidant power that contributes to healthier-looking skin

Azelaic acid can be derived from grains like barley, wheat, and rye. However, the lab-engineered form is typically used in skin care formulas because of its greater stability and effectiveness.

Some of the research on this ingredient has looked at prescription-only topical products with concentrations between 15% and 20%, but there are incredible benefits to be seen EVEN AT LOWER CONCENTRATIONS.

What Does Azelaic Acid Do for Skin?

Azelaic acid works by inhibiting misbehaving elements on and within skin's uppermost layers. Left unchecked, these troublemakers lead to persistent, visible skin imperfections (like BROWN PATCHES and post-blemish marks), dull skin tone, and signs of sensitivities. Essentially, azelaic acid has a radar-like ability to interrupt or inhibit what's causing skin to act up. Skin "hears" the message azelaic acid sends and responds favorably, which leads to skin that looks better, no matter your age, skin type, or concerns.

The research on the unique way azelaic acid improves skin led us to formulate our 10% Azelaic Acid Booster. The azelaic acid within targets a wide range of skin imperfections and is formulated with 0.5% salicylic acid for a bit of a pore-refining nudge.


With its plethora of pro-skin health benefits, the Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% is hands-down one of my favorite skincare products from the brand. That said, the Azelaic Topical Acid 10% serum is not the first, the only, or even the most popular Azelaic Acid treatment available. It is, however, distinguished by the addition of Niacinamide and Vitamin C in the formula; but there’s something else that’s noteworthy.

Unlike the more popular Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster and The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, the Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% is a watery serum that renders it more easily layered into a daily skincare routine.

I was curious about how and why Paula’s Choice and The Ordinary offer lightweight creams instead of a more watery serum similar to both brands’ Niacinamide offerings. Or how and why Naturium’s Azelaic Topical Acid 10% isn’t in a cream form. What’s going on here?

NIACINAMIDE SERUMS TO GET YOUR COMPLEXION GOING AND GLOWING SS21 FROM NATURIUM, ALPYN BEAUTY & MORE

As it turns out, Naturium uses a derivative of the pure Azelaic Acid that both Paula’s Choice and The Ordinary are using in their formulations: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate. My googling led me to the discovery that formulating with Azelaic Acid is quite the challenge — which may explain the dearth of Azelaic Acid products in the skincare marketplace considering its broad benefits for the skin.

According to the ingredient experts at INCI Decoder, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a “derivative of clinically proven, superstar ingredient Azelaic Acid and hydrating amino acid Glycine. Azelaic acid is an awesome ingredient with anti-inflammatory, skin lightening and anti-acne effects, but its insolubility (it’s soluble neither in water nor in oil) makes it difficult to use it in a cosmetically elegant and versatile way.”

The INCI Decoder site goes on to explain that Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is the near equivalent of Azelaic Acid with similar brightening and “sebum normalizing” activity. 

THE BEST AZELAIC ACID SERUMS AND CREAMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE ORDINARY AND NATURIUM


What Is Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate Used for and What is Azelaic Acid Derivative?

According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, the Azelaic Acid derivative Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is “among the best ingredients for promoting skin health and for the maintenance of oily, acne-prone skin:

  • Has been studied for soothing sensitive skin conditions, including reducing redness

  • Known to offer improvement for uneven skin tone

  • Helps with issues related to excessive oiliness in skin

  • Water-soluble ingredient obtained from the condensation of azelaic acid mixed with glycine

  • The glycine component gives it a hydrating/moisturizing effect”

The Paula’s Choice Research Team continues:

Potassium azeloyl diglycinate offers many of the same benefits as pure azelaic acid (including the ability to improve uneven tone), with the advantage that is easier to incorporate into various types of cosmetic formulas due to its increased stability and compatibility. Of significance, potassium azeloyl diglycinate plays a role in reducing the appearance of redness and discomfort associated with sensitive skin.

Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is a water-soluble ingredient obtained from the condensation of azelaic acid mixed with glycine. The glycine gives it a hydrating/moisturizing effect that helps improve conditions for compromised skin.

Simultaneously, potassium azeloyl diglycinate has the ability to normalize and in turn help minimize excess oil in skin. This can help with skin issues associated the overproduction of sebum (think clogged pores, breakouts, etc.).

More research is necessary to determine the concentration range needed to produce optimal results, but from the studies currently available as well as information from ingredient suppliers, we can conclude that a 0.5% concentration is beneficial for soothing skin, while amounts between 2–3% can help fade skin discolorations and influence sebum.


With its watery texture, something I prefer as it allows me to layer multiple serums into my routine, Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% is quite a nice formula. Like liquid velvet, it actually feels quite elegant on the skin. As I alluded to, it’s got much more going for it than its one-note name implies.

The formula’s 10% Azelaic Acid is combined with what I estimate to be between two and three percent each of Niacinamide, Vitamin C in the form of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a stable form of Ascorbic Acid. In conjunction with Coffee Seed Extract, the trio combine to pack an antioxidant and skin-brightening punch. There’s also some humectant Sodium Hyaluronate – the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid that’s more compatible with the skin.

I really can’t get enough of this stuff!

PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM VITAMIN C FACE OIL – BEST FACIAL OIL WITH VITAMIN C


What I like about it: Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% is a well-rounded treatment that helps clear out pores, moderate sebum production, calm irritation, brighten the complexion – and, with its potent antioxidant cocktail, defend skin against environmental damage. You really couldn’t ask for more from a $20 skincare product!

What I don’t like about it: It’s pretty much a prefect treatment.

Who it’s for: All skin types, but it’s especially ideal for oily and very oily skin.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% for $20 here.



The Ingredient List of the Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10%:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.




Naturium | Niacinamide Essence 3%

Too many people still don’t use a toner. And that makes me sad. But let me clarify for a second. The skincare world has been inundated with what I refer to as treatment toners; that is, toners that exfoliate or otherwise illuminate the complexion. They are most often formulated with a blend of alpha hydroxy acids like Glycolic Acid or Mandelic Acid. These are not to be confused with hydrating toners – the ones that make me sad that people don’t seem to have a use for.

Treatment toners, or more specifically acid toners, are great for the skin when used in moderation. I’ve reviewed some of the best Glycolic Acid toners and other acid-based variations on the blog, most recently in an article titled, Bad, Better, Best: The Truth About 3 Treatment Toners. You can catch it here.

BAD, BETTER, BEST: THE TRUTH ABOUT 3 TREATMENT TONERS

As I said in that article, Peach & Lily’s The Good Acids Pore Toner is among the best treatment toners for sensitive skin. I love its complex of lower levels of Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid combined with high concentrations of soothing botanical extracts. It’s one of a very few treatment toners that I would recommend for daily use.

Not all treatment toners are infused with exfoliating acids like Lactic Acid. Many are what I’d classify as brightening toners. They’re most often formulated with Niacinamide, Turmeric Root Extract and Vitamin C – or a blend of these and perhaps a milder polyhydroxy acid (PHA). One of the best brightening toners is the Cocokind Turmeric Illuminating Solution, a terrific exfoliating toner for all skin types, but especially skins susceptible to sensitization.

Like the Cocokind toner, Naturium’s Niacinamide Essence 3% is classified as a brightening toner with hydrating properties. It’s the kind that can be used daily, even twice daily, to hydrate the skin immediately following cleansing and before the application of face serums.

The Niacinamide Essence 3% formula has a wonderfully velvety texture and is infused with a 3% concentration of Niacinamide – a modest level of the brightening, pore-clearing and skin-strengthening antioxidant. By no means should it be your only Niacinamide treatment, but as a dual-purpose brightening and hydrating toner, it’s solid.

NIACINAMIDE IS THE GAME CHANGER YOU NEED TO DEFEND AGAINST SKIN DAMAGE AND MAINTAIN OPTIMAL SKIN HEALTH


What Is Niacinamide and What Does Niacinamide Do for the Skin?

There’s a comprehensive article on the benefits of Niacinamide for skin written by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, titled simply, Niacinamide Benefits: What Does Niacinamide Do for Skin? Below is just an excerpt. If you’re interested, you can catch the full article here.

What is niacinamide?

Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinamide, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that works with the natural substances in your skin to help visibly minimize enlarged pores, tighten lax or stretched out pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles, diminish dullness, and strengthen a weakened surface.

Niacinamide also reduces the impact of environmental damage because of its ability to improve skin’s barrier (its first line of defense), plus it also plays a role in helping skin to repair signs of past damage. Left unchecked, this type of daily assault makes skin appear older, dull, and less radiant.

What does niacinamide do for your skin?

Niacinamide is most famous for its ability to reduce the appearance of enlarged pores.Research hasn’t come to a full understanding about how this B vitamin works its pore-reducing magic, but it seems that niacinamide has a normalizing ability on the pore lining, and that this influence plays a role in keeping oil and debris from getting backed up, which leads to clogs and rough, bumpy skin.

As the clog forms and worsens, the pores stretch to compensate, and what you’ll see is enlarged pores. Routine usage of niacinamide helps pores return to their natural size. Sun damage can cause pores to become stretched, too, leading to what some describe as "orange peel skin". Higher concentrations of niacinamide can help visibly tighten pores by shoring up skin’s supportive elements and often dramatically improving orange peel texture.


At just $16, Naturium’s Niacinamide Essence 3% is a relatively simple formula. In addition to the 3% concentration of Niacinamide, there’s a trio of potent humectants that help hydrate skin by locking water in and preventing trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL. The formulas humectants include Glycerin, Beta-Glucan and Sodium Hyaluronate — the more skin-compatible salt form of Hyaluronic Acid.

Again, the Naturium Niacinamide Essence 3% is a great addition to any pro-health skincare routine – and a real must-have in my book.


What I like about it: The Naturium Niacinamide Essence 3% is simply too easy and pleasurable to not have it in your daily skincare routine. With its trio of humectants, it’s great for hydrating the skin and preventing TEWL. Plus, the 3% concentration of Niacinamide is the perfect adjunct to a dedicated Niacinamide serum like the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster or The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%. Pssst…you can’t have too much Niacinamide in your routine!

What I don’t like about it: I love everything about it.

Who it’s for: All skin types.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Naturium Niacinamide Essence 3% for $16 here.


The Ingredient List of the Naturium Niacinamide Essence 3%:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Best Niacinamide Serums and Treatments




WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

SKINCARE HACKS: GLYCOLIC ACID IS THE NATURAL DEODORANT THAT WORKS!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

THE YEAR’S BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS WITH PAULA'S CHOICE, SUNDAY RILEY, THE INKEY LIST AND MORE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

COOL CLEAN FACIAL SUNSCREENS TO KEEP US SAFE AND SMILING IN THE SUN!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

RETINOL, RETINOIDS, RETINOIC ACID PART ONE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

A COMPLETE $100 SKINCARE ROUTINE WITH THE INKEY LIST, THE ORDINARY, BENTON & MORE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

#SELFCARESUNDAY IS THE BEST DAY FOR CLARITY…AND A DOSE OF PORE MAINTENANCE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

SUMMER 2020 MOISTURIZERS PART I

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

THE YEAR’S BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS WITH THE ORDINARY, CLINIQUE, BEAUTY STAT & MORE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

MY #SELFCARESUNDAY ESSENTIALS WITH SKINFIX, HERBIVORE AND SELFLESS!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


PRODUCT REVIEW: FIRST AID BEAUTY 10% VITAMIN C BRIGHTENING SERUM - BEST VITAMIN C SERUM FOR SENSITIVE SKIN, BEST BRIGHTENING SERUM WITH VITAMIN C

PRODUCT REVIEW: FIRST AID BEAUTY 10% VITAMIN C BRIGHTENING SERUM - BEST VITAMIN C SERUM FOR SENSITIVE SKIN, BEST BRIGHTENING SERUM WITH VITAMIN C

PRODUCT REVIEW: GOOD SCIENCE BEAUTY 003-HY HYDRATING FACIAL - BEST HYDRATING MASK, BEST FACE CREAM WITH HYALURONIC ACID, WHAT IS HYALURONIC ACID AND WHAT DOES HYALURONIC ACID DO FOR THE SKIN?

PRODUCT REVIEW: GOOD SCIENCE BEAUTY 003-HY HYDRATING FACIAL - BEST HYDRATING MASK, BEST FACE CREAM WITH HYALURONIC ACID, WHAT IS HYALURONIC ACID AND WHAT DOES HYALURONIC ACID DO FOR THE SKIN?