PRODUCT REVIEW: KIEHL'S ULTRA PURE HIGH-POTENCY 5.0% NIACINAMIDE SERUM - What is the perfect percentage of niacinamide? Should I use 5% or 10% niacinamide? What should I use niacinamide for?
KIEHL'S ULTRA PURE HIGH-POTENCY 5.0% NIACINAMIDE SERUM
Are you using a dedicated Niacinamide serum in your daily routine? If not, you’re missing one of the best opportunities to significantly improve your skin health.
Niacinamide is one of the most versatile ingredients in skincare. When people ask me questions like What does Niacinamide do? and Is Niacinamide really worth it? I don’t even know where to begin.
The form of Vitamin B3 has so many benefits for the skin that it’s always a challenge for me to list them without leaving an important one out.
So when I get my hands on a new Niacinamide face serum, it feels like opening a present on Christmas morning. And one of my long-time favorite brands, Kiehl’s, just introduced their first-ever dedicated Niacinamide serum! I copped it during the semi-annual Sephora BI sales event a couple of weeks ago and have eagerly added it to my daily skincare routines.
The new Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 5.0% Niacinamide Serum isn’t necessarily innovative, but it is interesting – and ideal for someone new to Niacinamide. Hey, anything the 172-year-old Kiehl’s brand does is interesting, and worthy of attention.
The Best Niacinamide Serums
If you’ve been following me for a while, you may know that I worked in-house at Kiehl’s for 7 years as their first-ever copywriter. Fortunately for me, they didn’t hire a copywriter until the 2000s, long after their founding in 1851. So, full disclosure – Kiehl’s will always have a special place in my heart. (But it doesn’t mean I can’t write a smart, objective review of Kiehl’s products!)
Familiar with the Kiehl’s Super Fluid Daily UV Defense Sunscreen or the Facial Fuel Energizing Moisture Treatment for Men? What about classics like Ultra Facial Cream and the Creamy Eye Treatment with Avocado? I named all those products, worked on product positioning, and wrote the packaging copy.
So I’m always curious about what Kiehl’s is doing next. And filling product gaps like introducing a Niacinamide serum after 172 years is one way established brands compete with up-and-comers like The Ordinary, Cocokind and Naturium. If you don’t offer products centered around the hottest skincare ingredients, you get left behind.
BEST NIACINAMIDE:
THE ORDINARY NIACINAMIDE 10% + ZINC 1% FACE SERUM
For many years now, Niacinamide has been one of the most trending skincare ingredients. In fact, as I recall, in 2019 Niacinamide was the most googled skincare ingredient!
Did you know that The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Oil Control Serum is one of the most popular skincare products in the world? The affordable brand’s $6 face serum was introduced years ago and is today found in more medicine cabinets, cosmetic bags and dopp kits than just about any other skincare product.
With its unique combination of Niacinamide and Zinc Oxide, I consider The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Oil Control Serum to be the best Niacinamide for oily skin.
Today, there are dozens of dedicated Niacinamide serums on the market from mass drugstore brands to luxury brands at high-end retailers. They run the gamut from The Ordinary’s wildly popular Niacinamide face serum to Dr. Barbara Sturm’s $145 The Better B Niacinamide Serum – the most over-hyped, overpriced of them all. (Psst…everything she does is over-hyped and overpriced. Don’t be fooled!)
As I’ve said, Niacinamide is indispensable to me and plays a significant role in my daily skin health routine. In fact, it forms the core of what I like to refer to as my “ABC” skincare philosophy.
The Skincarma ABC method consists of three essential products – a Retinol face serum or cream (Vitamin A), a Niacinamide serum (Vitamin B3) and a Vitamin C serum. Dedicated serums are best as they’re more easily layered and absorbed by the skin. As a rule, they should be applied thinnest to thickest, water-based to oil-based.
What’s the best Niacinamide serum for all skin types? I know all Niacinamide fans have a fave. But you may already know what my answer to that question is: the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster.
I go through two bottles of the iconic Paula’s Choice Niacinamide serum a month and consider it not only the best Niacinamide serum specifically, but generally the best anti-aging serum on Earth. I always have two or three in back stock and often cop a couple of them whenever they’re on sale.
BEST NIACINAMIDE: PAULA’S CHOICE 10% NIACINAMIDE BOOSTER
What makes the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster serum so exceptional? Well, it’s the perfect balance between versatility and formulation. In addition to its 10% concentration of Niacinamide, this remarkable serum also contains additional antioxidants, including Ascorbyl Glucoside (a form of Vitamin C that is more gentle on skin), Licorice Root Extract, and Ubiquinone.
In addition, there are multiple skin-soothing actives: Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate and both Licorice Root Extract and Niacinamide. And, I love its super watery texture, which makes it ridiculously easy to layer into the serum step of your skincare routine. It absorbs almost instantly!
Catch my Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster review on the blog here.
Before I get to my product review of the Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 5.0% Niacinamide Serum just below, I wanted to dive deeper into the exceptional benefits that Niacinamide has for your skin and explore some of the most frequent concerns people express – like how often to use Niacinamide.
WHY NOT GET YOUR HYALURONIC ACID & LAUNDRY DETERGENT FROM THE SAME BRAND?
1. Is it okay to use Niacinamide serum everyday?
Yes, it is generally safe to use a niacinamide serum every day as part of your skincare routine. In fact, dermatologists often recommend incorporating niacinamide into your daily skincare regimen, as it offers numerous benefits for the skin without causing irritation or sensitivity.
According to a study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, niacinamide was well-tolerated by test subjects, with no reports of adverse effects or irritation. Some research has even shown that Niacinamide helps to moderate irritation and soothe sensitive skin.
While it is generally recommended for use daily, only you know your skin. While I often use a 10% Niacinamide twice a day, that may be too much for your skin – especially if you’re new to Niacinamide. As with any skincare product, it is best to patch test and incorporate only one new product at a time to gauge your skin’s response and tolerance for a potent active like Niacinamide.
Sources: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017965/
2. What is the perfect percentage of Niacinamide?
There is no one-size-fits-all answer to what constitutes the perfect percentage of niacinamide, as the most effective concentration can vary depending on an individual’s skin type and concerns.
According to the experts on the Paula's Choice research team, a concentration of 2% to 5% of niacinamide is generally considered effective for delivering antioxidant protection and improving the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone and fine lines.
However, more powerful serums may contain higher percentages of niacinamide, commonly 10% and even up to 20%, without causing irritation or sensitivity. Only you know your skin and its level of tolerance. To gauge whether a particular concentration of Niacinamide is okay for your skin and delivers the benefits you need, try using it every other day and building up to daily usage – or even up to twice daily as I have done.
3. Should I use 5% or 10% Niacinamide?
Again, according to the experts on the Paula's Choice research team, a 2-5% concentration of niacinamide is considered effective for improving the multiple skin concerns. Lower concentrations will give you the antioxidant and even skin-brightening benefits. Higher concentrations up to 20% help to smooth and retexturize skin’s surface.
Depending on your skin concerns, you may want to consider a dosage higher than 5%. Concentrations of up to 10% have been used without causing irritation or sensitivity – and can deliver even more benefits for your skin.
Personally, I don’t believe you can get enough antioxidant defense into your routine. The benefits of antioxidants like Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Turmeric Root and Green Tea Extracts to your overall skin health are under-appreciated. If your skin can tolerate it, as with Retinol, more is better.
At concentrations of 10% or greater, you’ll benefit from all that Niacinamide has to offer, including prevention of clogged pores, antioxidant protection, brightening, hydration, surface oil moderation and calming of skin sensitivity.
It’s always best to consult with a dermatologist or professional skincare provider, as they can evaluate your skin concerns and make a recommendation on the ideal concentration of niacinamide for your specific needs. If exploring on your own, patch testing is a good way to determine your skin’s tolerance. And, of course, go slow by using it every other day and building up to daily, then twice-daily use, if desired.
Sources: https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/anti-aging-wrinkles/how-does-niacinamide-improve-skin.html; https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26684700/; https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017965/
4. What should I use Niacinamide for?
It’s remarkable how many benefits Niacinamide has for your skin. In fact, it’s nearly unrivaled in its versatility! There are three exceptional actives used in topical skincare that are in a class by themselves: Vitamin C, Vitamin A (retinoids) and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide).
Of the three, Niacinamide offers the broadest benefits for your skin.
According to a review article published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, niacinamide can improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce redness, diminish the intensity of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and minimize the look of pores by helping to prevent them from clogging and expanding. It can also strengthen the skin barrier and increase hydration levels in the skin.
The National Institutes of Health adds that Niacinamide may also be used to manage acne, as it has the ability to moderate oil production and calm inflammation in the skin. It may also help improve the appearance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) caused by acne.
Additionally, studies suggest that Niacinamide may also be beneficial for individuals with rosacea, as it can reduce inflammation and redness associated with the vexing skin condition.
Sources: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00228.x; https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6115793/; https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6369641/; https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6017965/
5. Product Review
Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 5.0% Niacinamide Serum Review
Not a day goes by that I don’t use Niacinamide in my routine. In fact, while a dedicated Niacinamide serum is at the heart of both my AM and PM skincare regimens, I often use a face cream with Niacinamide, too. Even my sunscreen may have a 1-2% concentration of the active! My latest sunscreen obsession, the CeraVe Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen SPF 30 for Face and Body, actually contains about one percent Niacinamide.
Honestly, you can’t really overdo it once you’ve built up your skin’s tolerance for the potent antioxidant. Niacinamide isn’t as harsh as actives like Retinol or Glycolic Acid, where using too much is sensitizing and can even be damaging to your skin.
But where do you begin?
As with any potent skincare active – including Glycolic Acid, Retinol, Vitamin C and Niacinamide – it’s best to start with something more reserved and gauge your skin’s response to it. And the Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 5.0% Niacinamide Serum is the perfect Niacinamide serum if you’re just starting out.
As the name asserts, Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 5.0% Niacinamide Serum contains a 5% concentration of the antioxidant vitamin, which is IMO the ideal place to begin your journey.
In addition, because the formula contains only 10 ingredients – whether intentional or not – it’s very gentle on your skin. The brand refers to it as “a concentrated facial serum,” but I’m not really clear what’s concentrated beyond its tight ingredient list. It’s pure, for sure!
Of its 10 ingredients, the only other beneficial actives in the formula are two humectants – Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate, the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid that’s more compatible with human skin. Niacinamide itself possesses hydrating qualities that help prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) – the leading cause of skin dehydration. The three combine to make this an effective hydrating serum.
All of this to say that not only is Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 5.0% Niacinamide Serum ideal for a beginner, but it’s also among the best Niacinamide serums for sensitive skin. There’s literally nothing in the formula, like denatured alcohol or fragrance, that would be a potential skin irritant – so it’s all upside.
Kiehl’s new Niacinamide serum has a slightly pulpy texture, though it’s not sticky like many pulpier serums often are.
And as any solid serum should be, it’s perfectly layer-able. As a part of the Skincarma ABC method, I slot the Ultra Pure High-Potency 5.0% Niacinamide Serum into the serum phase of my routine as the first of three products after cleansing and toning.
Over the last two weeks, I’ve been using the Kiehl’s serum first, immediately followed by a Vitamin C serum like the Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum or Revision Skincare 15% Vitamin C Lotion. Then, as is my habit, I wait a few minutes for the two to fully absorb and my skin to dry down before applying a Retinol serum or a face cream with Retinol.
Having used a Niacinamide serum for more than 5 years now, the 5% concentration of Niacinamide isn’t enough for me; I’m way past that. But if you’re just starting out, or have sensitive skin, this one is for you!
6. Pros & Cons
What I like about it: The Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 5.0% Niacinamide Serum is a great option for those just starting their Niacinamide journey or for sensitive skin types. I appreciate its complex of water-binding humectants, the simplicity of the formula – and the fact that it’s devoid of common irritants like fragrance and denatured alcohol.
What I don’t like about it: The 5% concentration is too low for my taste, though it’s a commonly recommended dosage.
Who it’s for: All skin types, especially sensitive skins.
SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 5.0% Niacinamide Serum for $35 here.
The Ingredient List of the Kiehl’s Ultra Pure High-Potency 5.0% Niacinamide Serum:
Aqua/Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Propanediol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide.
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