PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM RETINALDEHYDE CREAM SERUM 0.05% - What is retinaldehyde? What is better retinol or retinaldehyde? What does retinaldehyde do for your skin?
NATURIUM RETINALDEHYDE CREAM SERUM 0.05%
It wasn’t that long ago that there weren’t any really good Retinol treatments on the market. In fact, when I was working in-house at Kiehl’s on legit “skinnovations” like the Kiehl's Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate 10% Vitamin C serum, there were no Retinol face creams or potent face serums with Retinol available without a prescription.
Back then, if you wanted a Retinol cream for wrinkles, and specifically a potent retinoid treatment with Tretinoin, you needed a dermatologist’s prescription. Or, you went on a weekend getaway to Mexico.
For real though! I often traveled to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, with friends for long weekends. The first thing we would do after checking in and dropping off our bags was to cab it to our favorite farmacias. We favored two, in particular, that would sell us tubes of Tretinoin cream without a prescription – no questions asked. For weeks after I returned home, my skin would peel and become inflamed. Everyone who knew me knew I had recently been to Mexico.
Leery of illegally transporting prescription drugs over international borders, I was excited when the Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Booster came out. The first night I tried it I nearly burned my face off thinking it wasn’t going to be as strong as those Mexican Tretinoin creams. I really had no idea what I was doing.
Fast forward to today and not only is my skin acclimated to retinoids of all types and strengths, but there are remarkably potent and innovative retinoid creams available that I’d never imagined. And they’re legal! One of my favorite discoveries of 2023 is the Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05%.
THE BEST PRODUCTS FROM NATURIUM
It was only about a year ago that I came across the word Retinaldehyde for the first time. I’m barely exaggerating when I say that a hot new anti-aging retinoid molecule hits the market every few months now. Okay, I’m totally exaggerating. But what is certain is that it’s no longer interesting (or innovative) enough for brands to launch a mere anti-aging cream with Retinol.
Retinol is so passé!
Three years ago, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (aka Granactive Retinoid or HPR) seemed to be all the rage. And one of my fave anti-aging creams with Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is the Wander Beauty Do Not Disturb Overnight Repair Concentrate. It’s still one of the most pleasurable anti-aging face creams I’ve ever come across. Literally, it’s amazing. Find out why in my Wander Beauty Do Not Disturb product review here.
For the record, The Ordinary’s Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane and Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion are each also formulated with Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, marketed as “Granactive Retinoid”. They’ve been on the market for years and are really elegant and pleasurable formulations, too.
At about $16 and $11 respectively, they’re still two of the best anti-aging retinoid serums I’ve come across on my decade-long Retinol journey. I’m a big fan of all of The Ordinary’s retinoids. You can catch my review of The Ordinary’s Granactive Retinoid serums on the blog here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: WANDER BEAUTY DO NOT DISTURB OVERNIGHT REPAIR CONCENTRATE
The next retinoid to come along was Retinal – or Retinol with an A.
From a consumer POV, I think it’s super easy to confuse the two – and to even think that you’ve caught a brand with a typo on their packaging. The first time I saw “Retinal” in a product name, I thought exactly that. As a skincare copywriter, I can tell you that’s every marketer’s biggest nightmare – right up there with failing a product claim after the packaging art has released. (And I’ve been around for all of that!)
In fact, you can’t even Google the phrase “best anti-aging retinal serums.” Google thinks you’ve spelled Retinol wrong and corrects you!
So what is Retinal? The truth is, “Retinal” is really just short for Retinaldehyde! And neither usage is ideal from a consumer marketing standpoint. My guess is that most people have no idea what Retinaldehyde is or how to pronounce it. It’s not a sexy word on packaging. And it’s impossible to remember.
But, Naturium went for it!
Even though the marketers at Naturium embraced the fun and funky retinoid, going so far as to put it into their product name, I doubt the average user could engage in a conversation and recommend it to a friend: “OMG you have to try this new product from Naturium. I love it. It’s called Retinaldehyde Cream Serum! Look it up!”
PRODUCT REVIEW: THE ORDINARY GRANACTIVE RETINOID 2% IN SQUALANE
What Is Better Retinol or Retinaldehyde (Retinal)?
While both retinoids are highly effective anti-aging ingredients, Retinaldehyde, also known as Retinal, is “up to 20 times more powerful than Retinol due to its closer proximity to Retinoic Acid,” commonly marketed as prescription Tretinoin.
Source: The Zoe Report
What is Retinaldehyde and what does Retinaldehyde do for your skin?
Well, Retinaldehyde is a retinoid, as is prescription Tretinoin and the more common OTC actives like Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR). As all retinoids, Retinaldehyde delivers some of the best anti-aging benefits. With consistent use in a well-formulated treatment, it can improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and promote a more even skin tone.
Applied topically, Retinaldehyde is converted into Retinoic Acid in the skin where it gets to work delivering its powerful skin-restoring anti-aging benefits. Interestingly, Retinaldehyde is considered to be an intermediate retinoid with strength between Retinol and pure Retinoic Acid, commonly marketed as Tretinoin.
However, and here’s the upside to Retinaldehyde and why it may be the best retinoid used in skincare: it is proven to be less irritating. Because it’s less likely to cause sensitization, it’s a better option for those with sensitive skin or people who can’t tolerate potent Retinol face creams or prescription treatments.
PACKS A PUNCH (WITHOUT THE IRRITATION!)
Before I get into my detailed Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% product review just below, I wanted to explore some of the most frequently asked questions about Retinaldehyde, including how it compares to Retinol…
1. What is retinaldehyde?
Retinaldehyde is a form of retinoid, similar to prescription Tretinoin and alternative OTC actives like Retinol and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, or HPR. Retinoids, including Retinaldehyde, help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a unified and more even skin tone.
Short for Retinal (with an A), Retinaldehyde is considered a mid-strength retinoid between Retinol and Retinoic Acid and is less irritating than other forms of retinoids. Because it’s less likely to sensitize the skin, it’s a better option for those with sensitive skin or an intolerance for potent Retinol face creams or prescription treatments.
With topical application, Retinaldehyde is converted into Retinoic Acid in the skin where it gets to work delivering its skin-restoring anti-aging benefits.
Explore my top picks of the best anti-aging creams with Retinol on the blog here.
Sources: NIH, National Library of Medicine - Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety; Byrdie - Meet Retinaldehyde: Retinol’s More Potent Relative
2. What is better retinol or retinaldehyde?
Retinaldehyde is considered to be a more potent form of retinoid than Retinol, while being less irritating and sensitizing to the skin.
According to a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Retinaldehyde was found to be more effective than Retinol in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin elasticity while being better tolerated by the skin. Both Retinaldehyde and Retinol have been shown to be equally effective in stimulating collagen production and improving skin texture and tone.
An article in The Zoe Report titled, What Is Retinaldehyde — & Is It Really Stronger Than Retinol? states that, “Retinaldehydes are retinoids up to 20 times more powerful than retinol due to its closer proximity to retinoic acid.”
The choice between Retinol and Retinaldehyde may depend on your individual skin sensitivity and product preference.
Explore my top picks of the best Retinol creams and serums on the blog here.
Sources: NIH, National Library of Medicine - Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety; Healthline - Retinoids for Wrinkles: Effectiveness, Safety, and Product Picks; The Zoe Report - What Is Retinaldehyde — & Is It Really Stronger Than Retinol?
3. What does retinaldehyde do for your skin?
As with other retinoids, Retinaldehyde is a form of vitamin A that is clinically proven to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more even skin tone.
According to a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Retinaldehyde was found to be more effective than Retinol in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin elasticity. In the skin, Retinaldehyde is converted into retinoic acid – the active form that delivers the anti-aging benefits that retinoids are known for.
Retinaldehyde is less irritating to the skin than other forms of retinoids, making it a better option for those with sensitive skin or a general intolerance for other OTC Retinol creams or prescription-strength Tretinoin treatments.
Explore my top picks of the best Retinol treatments on the blog here.
Sources: NIH, National Library of Medicine - Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety; The Zoe Report - What Is Retinaldehyde — & Is It Really Stronger Than Retinol?
4. Does retinaldehyde cause irritation?
Retinaldehyde is considered to be less irritating to the skin than other forms of retinoids like Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (aka Granactive Retinoid or HPR) and Tretinoin.
According to a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Retinaldehyde was found to have a lower likelihood of skin irritation and sensitization compared to other retinoids. This makes it a better option for those with sensitive skin or an intolerance for the most potent anti-aging creams with Retinol.
However, as with any clinical-strength active ingredient, sensitivity can vary from person to person. Thus, it is always a good idea to patch test new products on the skin opposite your elbow before applying them to your entire face.
Explore my top picks of the best wrinkle creams with Retinol on the blog here.
Sources: NIH, National Library of Medicine - Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
5. Product Review
Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% Review
I love Naturium. It’s one of my favorite skincare brands – and right up there with The Ordinary and The Inkey List in terms of combining product quality and accessible pricing. In fact, several Naturium products are part of my regular skincare routine.
I’m such a fan of the brand that I have an entire section of the blog dedicated to the “best Naturium products” – which you can explore here.
Among my favorites are Naturium’s Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2% and new Dew-Glow Moisturizer SPF 50. But it’s the Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum that I can’t get enough of. I go through a bottle a month of the super light, water-based Vitamin C serum.
Naturium’s Vitamin C Complex Serum is ridiculously easy to layer and one of the best Vitamin C serums under $20 on the market. It’s not one of the strongest Vitamin C serums, but I’m not a chaser of percentages. It’s a solid, pro-skin health formula and a pleasure to use.
About six weeks ago, I began to explore the brand’s range of anti-aging creams and serums with Retinol. I recently posted my review of the first of these, the Naturium Retinol Complex Cream – which you can catch on the blog here.
With a 2.5% blend of Retinol and Bakuchiol, Naturium’s Retinol Complex Cream is more of a beginner Retinol face cream and is good for those with a sensitivity to more potent retinoids.
According to What’s in My Jar, that Retinol-Bakuchiol blend translates to a 1.6% - 1.9% concentration of Retinol. With a light, velvety cream texture, it’s a real pleasure to use and I never experience irritation when using it. (That’s not surprising since my skin is used to retinoids now, but poorly formulated ones do irritate my skin.)
The brand actually offers four distinct retinoid products for face and a Retinol body lotion. In addition to the Naturium Retinol Complex Cream, there’s a Retinol Complex Serum, which is also formulated with a 2.5% complex of Retinol and Bakuchiol.
Aside from texture, the formulas appear to be the same; the two products simply offer versatility. If you already have a night cream you love, you can layer the serum under it. If not, the Retinol face cream may be a better choice. I like both of these conventional Retinol treatments. Catch my Naturium Retinol Complex Cream review on the blog here.
A RETINOL FACE SERUM FOR THE DAY? YES!
More innovative and intriguing to me are the brand’s two new Retinaldehyde serums – one with a 0.05% concentration of Retinaldehyde and the other at twice that, or 0.10%. As I pointed out, the strength of Retinaldehyde lies between Retinol and Retinoic Acid, the drug in prescription Tretinoin.
Over the last three weeks I’ve focused my attention on the milder of the two retinoid serums, the $29 Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05%. (At double the strength, the Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.10% is just $3 more.)
They have similar textures, thicker than a serum and lighter than a lotion – hence the weird “cream serum” in the name. (Funny, when I was at Kiehl’s, I wanted to use the phrase cream-serum in the name of a lightweight, silky anti-aging cream and was overruled!)
As I usually do in my PM routine, I have been applying the Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% after my Niacinamide serum and Vitamin C serum – and just before my moisturizer.
On most nights, my go-to ABC routine over the last couple of weeks has featured the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster, the Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum and Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% – in that order. Pure perfection!
In addition to the 0.05% concentration of anti-aging Retinaldehyde, what else is in the formula that is pro-skin health? Well, interestingly not much to write home about – or write a blog about!
There are a few skin-nourishing and replenishing actives, including biofermented oligopeptide, Yeast Extract and Punica Granatum Seed Extract – derived from pomegranate and a terrific antioxidant. There’s also a high level of humectant Glycerin at ingredient no. 2.
Truthfully, Naturium’s Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% is simply a straight up anti-aging retinoid serum intended to be layered with the brand’s other serums, a philosophy also held by The Ordinary and The Inkey List.
Interestingly, the brand offers that its potent retinaldehyde retinoid is a “sustained-release” molecule. Perhaps that’s an additional assurance that you may not experience irritation, sensitivity or “purging” with this retinoid – despite its elevated potency. At $29, it’s certainly worth a try!
BEST RETINOL FACE CREAMS & SERUMS
6. Pros & Cons
What I like about it: The Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% is easily layered and a great way to take advantage of the newest retinoid technology. I love the texture and the formula efficacy. At $29, it’s quite affordable and one of the best anti-aging retinoid face serums for the price. And because Retinaldehyde is proven to be less sensitizing to the skin than Retinol, it’s a great option for any anti-aging skincare routine.
What I don’t like about it: I love everything about it.
Who it’s for: All skin types.
SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% for $29 here.
The Ingredient List of the Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05%:
sii|h 0 0, Propanediol solv|h, Triheptanoin emo, C13-15 Alkane solv|emo, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate emo, Carbomer vc 0 1, Faex (Yeast) Extract 
h, Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters emo|emu|surf, Soy Amino Acids h, Punica Granatum Seed Extract, Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) Silylethyl Dimethicone surf, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract h, Olivine Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Cellulose vc, Phenoxyethanol pres, Sorbitan Oleate emu 0 3, Sodium Metabisulfite aox|pres, Retinal cci, Guanosine, Uracil, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 vc, C9-12 Alkane solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate emo|emu, Dipropylene Glycol solv, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Pvm/Ma Copolymer vc, Adenosine Phosphate, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Potassium Sorbate pres, Hexadecene solv, Sodium Benzoate pres, T-Butyl Alcohol perf|solv
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