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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: REMEDY FOR DARK SPOTS NIGHTLY ALL IN ONE TREATMENT - What is the cause of dark spots? How do you get rid of dark spots on your skin? What is Tranexamic Acid?

PRODUCT REVIEW: REMEDY FOR DARK SPOTS NIGHTLY ALL IN ONE TREATMENT - What is the cause of dark spots? How do you get rid of dark spots on your skin? What is Tranexamic Acid?

REMEDY FOR DARK SPOTS NIGHTLY ALL IN ONE TREATMENT

Dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation are among the most difficult skin conditions to treat topically. And very few skincare brands have cracked that nut well.

That’s despite the fact that a concern for dark spots is among the most common across all demographics. Spots of all kinds – dark spots, sun spots, age spots and acne marks – transcend age, race, even gender.

One reason fading spots is so vexing is that not all spots are created the same way; their cause, composition and intensity vary. A lot.

A few years back, Clinique kicked off dark spot innovation with the launch of the Even Better serum for dark spots. The most innovative thing about it? The cool robin’s egg ad that compared a spotted egg with an unspotted egg to imply the serum could just as effectively clear the dark spots in your complexion. While a lot of people bought into the concept based on that big beauty marketing campaign, those who actually bought the serum saw minimal results.

As is often the case, the real skincare innovation has come from niche, nimble brands that don’t have the luxury of big beauty marketing budgets to push product awareness and purported efficacy. They have no choice but to introduce products powered by potent, proven actives that actually work to smooth lines, clear acne and, yes, fade dark spots.

Among the most effective recent dark spot innovations are the Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum and Murad’s Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum – both powered by high levels of potent actives proven to work on all kinds of hyperpigmentation and tone irregularities. Catch reviews of each and my top picks of the best brightening serums on the blog here.

The most potent dark spot serum I’ve come across to date is the new Remedy for Dark Spots Nightly All in One Treatment – one of three inaugural products introduced under celebrity dermatologist Dr. Muneeb Shah’s Remedy skincare brand. My full product review appears below…

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What makes one dark spot serum more effective than another? Well, because dark spots are so difficult to treat, the formula actives and the concentration of those actives is crucial to its efficacy.

By contrast, treating something like dull, dry skin is not that complicated. Dry skin is caused by a lack of oils that leaves your complexion lackluster. A good face cream for dry skin simply needs to add oils back into your skin. And there are dozens of replenishing plant oils for use in skincare that do that really well.

Even treating surface lines with a Retinol serum for wrinkles isn’t, well, rocket science. Dark spots are simply on another level.

Back to that original Clinique Even Better serum. It was not formulated with high concentrations of proven actives. Clinique, and big beauty brands like it, are more focused on developing proprietary complexes that distinguish their brand from competitors. They develop marketing campaigns that build stories about products and the unproven ingredients in them.

The problem is, stories are just that – stories.

Consumers today see right through savvy marketing. More people know that proven actives like Ascorbic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids are the most effective at brightening skin and evening out skin tone, while fading hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

Savvy science (not savvy marketing!) is where the innovation is really at…


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Before I get into my detailed Remedy for Dark Spots Nightly All in One Treatment product review just below, I wanted to explore some of the most frequently asked questions about dark spots and two of the key ingredient technologies behind Remedy’s new dark spot serum…


1. What is the cause of dark spots?

There is no single cause of dark spots. In fact, there isn’t even a single name for them. Dark spots, sun spots, age spots, acne marks and even dark patches like melasma are all characterizations of various forms of hyperpigmentation – and can all be characterized as “dark spots”.

The primary cause of dark spots is an overproduction of melanin – the pigment that gives your skin, eyes and hair their distinct color. Essentially, it is the specific triggers of melanin overproduction that leads to the formation of dark spots on the complexion.

Some of the most common causes include: unprotected sun exposure, inflammation, hormonal changes, medication side effects, genetics, aging, and skin conditions like acne.

Explore my picks of the best brightening serums, face creams and sunscreens on the blog here.

Sources: Very Well Health: An Overview of Dark Spots; Cleveland Clinic: Hyperpigmentation

2. How do you get rid of dark spots on your skin?

There are numerous ways to treat or address dark spots on the complexion. Few of them are definitive solutions for dark spots broadly. Fading dark spots effectively depends on the cause of the visible pigment irregularity, the intensity – and even how long ago the spot formed. In my experience, spots are like a stain in a white T-shirt; the longer they set, the harder they are to treat.

There are several categories of dark spots treatments, including: natural home remedies; OTC topical skincare products; professional, in-office procedures; and most importantly, prevention. Some of the most common ways for how to fix dark spots:

Home remedies

Apple Cider Vinegar: Rich in acetic acid, apple cider vinegar can help diminish the look of hyperpigmentation and potentially eliminate lighter dark spots.

Aloe Vera: Aloe vera contains the natural substance aloin, believed to help break down melanin in the skin. It can potentially fade the appearance of less intense dark spots. Whether it’s an effective dark spot solution, at the very least, aloe vera is a superb humectant that helps to hydrate skin.

Buttermilk: Rich in lactic acid, a potent alpha hydroxy acid, buttermilk can have a gentle exfoliating effect which can help fade less intense dark spots and brighten your complexion.

Topical skincare products and ingredients

Hydroquinone: A highly effective melanin inhibitor, hydroquinone is a common ingredient found in many potent face serums and creams for hyperpigmentation. However, it can also easily irritate the skin.

Retinol: One of the best actives for stimulating and accelerating cell turnover, retinoids like Retinol can be one of the best options for addressing hyperpigmentation and other skin tone and texture irregularities. As with any treatment for dark spots, it takes time to see visible results; but if you stick with it, Retinol can be your best bet.

Niacinamide: With numerous benefits, Niacinamide is one of the best actives for brightening the complexion and unifying an uneven skin tone. Very gentle on the skin, its antioxidant activity also helps to prevent photoaging. Paired with a facial sunscreen, the combination is the best strategy for preventing dark spots.

Vitamin C: Similar to Niacinamide, antioxidant Vitamin C is a highly effective skin brightener that effectively fades dark spots. Used consistently in high concentrations, Vitamin C can address existing hyperpigmentation and prevent the formation of new spots.

Professional, in-office procedures

Laser Therapy: One of the most popular and effective dermatologist treatments for serious, more intense dark spots, laser therapy targets specific areas of discoloration with a light to remove layers of pigmented skin. While effective and quick, it may require multiple sessions and visits to a derm, making it a costly option.

Chemical Peels: Professional chemical peels from a dermatologist are also an excellent option for effectively fading more intense dark spots. High concentrations of acids like a 30% Glycolic Acid peel can significantly reduce dark spots by removing the top layer of skin, allowing new skin cells to rise to the surface.

Microdermabrasion: A less invasive option than a chemical peel, microdermabrasion utilizes micronized crystals to immediately exfoliate the uppermost layer of skin, and along with it, the pigmented skin cells that appear as dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

Prevention

Sun Protection: Unprotected sun damage is the number one cause of dark spots and many forms of hyperpigmentation on the complexion. The best way to achieve a clear, unified and radiant complexion is to wear a facial sunscreen every day – even when it’s cloudy or raining.

Antioxidants: Paired with facial sunscreen, antioxidants like Niacinamide and Vitamin C can fortify your skin against photoaging – the leading cause of multiple signs of aging, including hyperpigmentation and dark spots.

Avoid picking at the skin: Scratching or picking at spots, particularly acne blemishes, can result in inflammation, pigmentation and embedded acne marks – among the most difficult spots to treat. Don’t make matters worse for yourself!

Explore my picks of the best brightening serums, face creams and sunscreens on the blog here.

Sources: American Academy of Dermatology: How to Fade Dark Spots in Darker Skin Tones; WebMD: How to Fade Age Spots; Healthline: How to Treat Skin Hyperpigmentation Naturally

3. What is Tranexamic Acid?

Tranexamic Acid (TXA) is among the newest brightening actives available for use in topical skincare to effectively treat dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation. The Tranexamic Acid molecule is on par with several proven brightening actives, including: Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Azelaic Acid, alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids like Retinol and Retinaldehyde.

Tranexamic Acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine. It has long been used in medicine to reduce bleeding resulting from serious medical conditions, including surgeries, trauma, and heavy menstrual bleeding.

TXA also happens to possess an exceptional ability to fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and melasma. It works by altering the way skin cells produce melanin, the pigment responsible for skin, hair and eye color. It is the overproduction of melanin that is a leading cause of hyperpigmentation and many types of spots on the complexion.

Tranexamic Acid works by disrupting pathways in the skin that can lead to uneven skin tone, effectively reducing pigmentation, dark spots, and the appearance of dark patches.

According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice research team, “Tranexamic acid helps prevent the formation of dark spots while actively improving existing discolorations. Tranexamic acid targets both dark spots and mask-like discolorations as it allows skin’s surface layers to regain their natural, even-toned color. The trick is patience: It can take 8–12 weeks of daily use until you see significant results.”

Explore my picks of the best brightening serums, face creams and sunscreens on the blog here.

Sources: Paula’s Choice: Tranexamic Acid for Skin; Healthline: Hoping to Even Out Your Skin Tone? Tranexamic Acid Could Help

4. What does mandelic acid do to your skin?

The mildest of the alpha hydroxy acids, I like to think of Mandelic Acid as being at the opposite end of the exfoliating scale from Glycolic Acid. Mandelic Acid is derived from bitter almonds, and offers numerous benefits for the skin as a gentle, effective exfoliating acid.

Because it is gentler on the skin, Mandelic Acid is an excellent option for sensitive skins and for the slow, steady fading of dark spots over time. A face cream or serum with Mandelic Acid can be used more consistently without a concern for the irritation common to other AHAs like Glycolic and Lactic Acids.

How does Mandelic Acid work to fade dark spots? Well, the gentle AHA works in three ways, including: gentle exfoliation, increased collagen production, and anti-inflammatory properties.

More specifically, Mandelic Acid helps to inhibit melanin production to prevent the intensifying of existing dark spots and formation of new ones. The over-production of melanin is a leading cause of dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation. As an exfoliating acid, Mandelic Acid helps remove the pigmented skin cells that appear as spots on the complexion.

Explore my picks of the best brightening serums, face creams and sunscreens on the blog here.

Sources: Health: What Is Mandelic Acid?; Paula’s Choice: Mandelic Acid; Healthline: Benefits and Uses of Mandelic Acid


5. Product Review

Remedy for Dark Spots Nightly All in One Treatment

I’ve tried millions of dark spot serums, brightening serums and just about every exfoliating serum or cream under the sun. Some did nothing to visibly brighten my complexion, others nearly burned my face off. Not literally, of course. But The Ordinary’s AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution certainly comes to mind.

As I stated earlier, dark spots come in many forms. Their cause, composition and intensity vary, making them the most difficult skin concern to treat topically.

The most effective dark spot treatments rely on a complex of proven actives to address hyperpigmentation; actives like Niacinamide, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Tranexamic Acid, Kojic Acid, and retinoids like Retinol. Even botanical extracts like Licorice Root Extract and Turmeric Root Extract – two popular natural skin brighteners – are effective at unifying skin tone over time.

Rarely does a single dark spot serum contain all of the above.

But the new Remedy for Dark Spots Nightly All in One Treatment from breakout dermatologist brand Remedy does. Literally. In fact, with a cocktail of 11 proven brightening actives, it’s the most potent dark spot serum I’ve come across yet. It’s even more potent than the Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum which wowed me so much last year. (Hey, catch my review of it here!)

PRODUCT REVIEW: LION POSE UNSPOTTED 4X ACID JELLY NIGHT SERUM

Yes, the Remedy for Dark Spots Nightly All in One Treatment is formulated with a whopping 11 active ingredients that target dark spots, uneven skin tone, and hyperpigmentation. Have a look; I highlighted them in the product INCI here:

Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Niacinamide, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Dimethicone, Mandelic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Sorbitan Olivate, Glutathione, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Kojic Dipalmitate, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Retinol, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ceramide NP, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate

As a general rule, I like to focus on the top 10 ingredients of any skincare product. It’s not a surety that the first ten ingredients necessarily equates to potency. Similar brightening serums could easily be 75-80% water. Another 5% Glycerin and there’s not much room for anything particularly effective beyond hydration.

I’ve come across plenty of minimally effective dark spot serums where this formula scenario plays out. Some are cheap, some are expensive – and they’re all nonsense.

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But the Remedy for Dark Spots Nightly All in One Treatment is a legit brightening serum for dark spots – and more. It’s also a Retinol face serum and an AHA exfoliating serum, too.

Remedy quotes percentages for several key actives: 0.1% Encapsulated Retinol, 1% Kojic Acid, 3% Tranexamic Acid, 5% Niacinamide, and 1% Silymarin. That alone would make it more effective than most dark spot serums on the market.

I know it’s potent – and has the potential to fade your dark spots and other visible hyperpigmentation – because I’ve been using it consistently over that past six weeks now.

Remember my earlier point about potent serums that burn? While Remedy’s new dark spot serum didn’t burn my face, it did cause irritation when used on consecutive days early on in my testing. It’s been a while since I used something so strong that it sensitized my skin.

As instructed, I had used the serum nightly for three consecutive nights. Suddenly one morning, I could tell my skin was simply overwhelmed. Applying my usual morning skincare was uncomfortable. So I took a break for a couple days and let things calm down.

After my break, I switched usage to every other night, and used less of it, before ramping back up to nightly.

Remedy holds its claims tight for the formula: Fades the appearance of existing dark spots; helps prevent future discoloration; and promotes even skin tone. All of that is possible and even likely.

But for me, I saw nothing transformational. I use a Niacinamide serum and a Vitamin C serum each morning. And I apply a Retinol face cream or serum four or five nights weekly. So my skin tone was already relatively unified, and my complexion bright, to begin with. I don’t have significant dark spots, but I do have a couple of acne marks on my upper cheeks.

I did not notice much difference over six weeks in the intensity of the acne marks. One fairly new one did seem to fade, but I would expect it to lighten anyway given the existing brightening serums in my routine.

The one noticeable difference was that my skin appeared visibly brighter. That was my experience of the Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum as well. Look, if you are frustrated with existing dark spots or other skin tone irregularities, the new Remedy for Dark Spots Nightly All in One Treatment is a solid option for you. I say go for it.

But you’ve got to give it time. Especially if you’re trying to fade an acne mark or two…


6. Pros & Cons

What I like about it: The new Remedy for Dark Spots Nightly All in One Treatment is a serious brightening treatment with a serious blend of proven actives for tackling dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation. Eleven of them, in fact. Many are at high levels. There are millions of inferior dark spots serums out there. Seriously, for $38 you can’t go wrong. Just be sure to stick with it. Dark spots (but especially acne marks!) take forever to fade away.

What I don’t like about it: I like everything about it.

Who it’s for: All skin types.

SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Remedy for Dark Spots Nightly All in One Treatment for $38 here.


FIND OUT WHICH SERUM PERFORMED BETTER – AND BY HOW MUCH!


The Ingredient List of the Remedy for Dark Spots Nightly All in One Treatment:

Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Niacinamide, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Dimethicone, Mandelic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Sorbitan Olivate, Glutathione, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Kojic Dipalmitate, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Retinol, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ceramide NP, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Cetyl Palmitate, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate



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