INGREDIENT TRENDS: EXOSOMES ARE ONE PART SCIENCE, ONE PART STORY - What are exosomes? What do exosomes do for skin?
I’ve been intrigued by so many “new” ingredients in skincare over the past year, notably Ectoin and exosomes. I put new in speech marks because there’s nothing new per se about either; they’ve simply started trending in beauty.
Skincare marketers tend to chase what’s buzzy – either by copying what another, more pioneering brand is doing or by following the lead of their chemist, formulator, or ingredient suppliers.
And that’s certainly been the case with one of the year’s buzziest ingredients: exosomes.
While the term is cropping up everywhere, there is truly nothing new about exosomes themselves. They’ve been an essential component of human cells since, well, our ancient predecessors slithered out of the ocean deep.
Far more recently, exosomes have been employed by dermatologists in their in-office procedures for the better part of a decade. Much like retinoids originated in derm offices before seeping into the consumer marketplace and then finding their way to anti-aging creams and serums across the beauty spectrum.
Key Takeaways:
Exosomes aren’t new — their marketing moment is. Long used in dermatology for post-procedure healing, they’ve recently crossed into mainstream skincare.
They excel in compromised skin. Clinical use supports the role of exosomes in wound healing, collagen stimulation, and repair — particularly after lasers or microneedling.
Topical efficacy on healthy skin remains unproven. While promising, exosomes in everyday serums have not yet demonstrated the same level of impact outside of a clinical setting.
Science sells — but story drives trends. Exosomes sit at the intersection of legitimate cellular biology and powerful marketing narrative.
During the year, I explored the science and benefits of exosomes in my conversations with brand founders, dermatologists and cosmetic chemists on my blog and podcast.
Most notably, my conversations with Dr. Jen Haley have been quite elucidating. Dr. Jen has used exosomes in her practice since 2016. And while she espouses the use of exosomes for repair and recovery post-procedure, she cautions that exosomes applied topically to relatively healthy, undamaged skin have limited appeal.
That is, a face serum with exosomes is unlikely to deliver the same exceptional benefits of exosomes applied on compromised skin – i.e. skin that’s damaged either through a procedure or wounded in an accident.
It doesn’t mean that exosomes don’t have benefits for skin health more broadly. They just aren’t the skin-aging panacea that marketers would love you to believe they are.
As I’ve said in the past, beauty marketers are in the game to sell products – whatever it takes. And if an ingredient backed by a great story rooted in hard science helps them to do that, then it’s a winner. It powers a trend.
So what are exosomes and what can they do to promote healthy, youthful skin?
1. What are exosomes?
Exosomes are nano-sized extracellular “vesicles” – or carrier molecules – secreted by various cell types, including stem cells, cancer cells, and immune cells. Exosomes carry biomolecules like proteins, lipids, mRNA, and DNA, which they use to facilitate intercellular communication and regulate physiological processes.
Tiny vesicles that deliver key substances between cells to signal and facilitate repair
Dermatologist-led innovation made its way to the consumer marketplace
Effective in post-procedure healing on compromised skin
Efficacy in topical skincare has not been proven
Similar to other powerful actives that have originated in in-office dermatology procedures – notably, retinoids like Retinol – exosomes burst into the consumer marketplace in 2025. These cell-to-cell communicators deliver proteins, RNA, and growth factors between cells to encourage repair and regeneration. While their efficacy is proven in post-procedure healing, collagen stimulation, and damage repair, the benefits of exosomes in topical use are under clinical review. Efficacy on healthy, uncompromised skin is unproven.
How to add exosomes to your routine: Exosomes can be found in face serums and creams from: The INKEY List, Plated, Caldera + Lab and Medicube.
Sources: Paula’s Choice - Exosomes; JCAD, Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology - Exosomes: A Comprehensive Review for the Practicing Dermatologist; The INKEY List - Exosomes in Skincare: Science, Benefits & Top Products.
2. What do exosomes do for skin?
We’re only beginning to understand the benefits of exosomes when applied topically outside of the derm office. We know that dermatologists primarily use exosomes to speed up healing post-procedure. Yet, exosomes have a wide range of benefits for skin health due to their unique ability to deliver growth factors, proteins, and signaling molecules that promote regeneration, repair, deep hydration – and more.
Some of the most notable benefits of exosomes for skin include: stimulating collagen and elastin production, wound healing, skin rejuvenation, hydration and barrier support, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Again, very little is proven for uncompromised, healthy skin.
Stimulate skin regeneration by delivering growth factors and proteins that promote collagen and elastin production.
Accelerate wound healing and repair after procedures like microneedling, lasers, or chemical peels.
Reduce inflammation and redness by regulating immune response and calming reactive skin.
Enhance cellular communication by helping skin cells function more efficiently in response to environmental factors.
Improve overall skin texture, tone, and resilience.
Learn more about exosomes on the Skincarma Pod: Demystifying Exosomes with Board Certified Dermatologist Dr. Jen Haley here.
Sources: NIH, National Library of Medicine, PubMed Central - Exosomes: The emerging mechanisms and potential clinical applications in dermatology; Paula’s Choice - Exosomes.
3. What not to mix with exosome serum?
Exosome technology isn’t one-size-fits-all. What you can layer over an exosome serum depends entirely on the formulation and form of exosomes in the product.
In the case of highly purified, human platelet-derived exosome formulas like the Plated Intense Serum, it’s best to apply the serum to clean, dry skin and wait at least five minutes before layering additional products. These exosomes are biologically active and very delicate, and immediately mixing with other actives — particularly acids, retinoids, or low-pH formulas — could theoretically compromise their integrity.
By contrast, plant-derived or biomimetic exosome serums designed for daily use are typically formulated for compatibility and require no wait time; they can be layered with moisturizers, antioxidants, and even retinoids without issue.
As always, follow product-specific recommendations.
Sources: Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (JCAD) - Exosomes: A Comprehensive Review for the Practicing Dermatologist; International Journal of Molecular Sciences - Stability and Storage Conditions of Extracellular Vesicles (Exosomes)
4. What do Plated exosomes do?
Plated relies upon proprietary Renewosome™ technology in their exosome serums. Unlike the vast majority of brands on the market, the Plated brand uses platelet-derived exosomes in their topical skincare to support skin renewal by enhancing cellular communication.
The brand states that Plated exosomes help improve the appearance of fine lines, uneven texture, redness, and overall skin tone by encouraging natural repair processes and collagen support.
Positioned as clinically inspired, post-procedure–compatible skincare, the three Plated exosome serums are designed to optimize skin recovery while promoting smoother, healthier-looking skin over time.
Sources: Plated Skin Science
5. Product Reviews
Plated Skin Science Intense Serum
What I like about it: The Plated Intense Serum is the most promising of the wave of exosome serums on the market. With roots in medicine, Plated’s parent company Rion Aesthetics was a forerunner in the formulation of anti-aging serums with exosomes. Rion Aesthetics is among a small group of companies working with human-derived exosomes – and specifically platelet-derived exosomes – rather than the plant-based molecules we see more broadly in skincare.
The company sources the platelets strictly from FDA-regulated donation banks in the US. While the human factor may seem off-putting, exosomes derived from platelets are the most viable – with the greatest potential for skin health benefits outside of the dermatology setting. In fact, Plated is the brand of choice for derms using exosomes in their practice.
What I don’t like about it: At $258 for 0.5 oz, it is very expensive and outside the reach of the average consumer.
Who it’s for: All skin types.
SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Plated Intense Serum for $258 here.
Caldera + Lab The Great Anti-Aging Serum
What I like about it: The Caldera + Lab The Great Anti-Aging Serum is a solid blend of pro-skin health actives – beyond the “150 billion exosomes per application” that the brand claims. It delivers proven hydrators and barrier strengtheners, including: Niacinamide, Squalane, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Bifida Ferment Lysate – the most likely source of the exosomes in the formula. (They are not directly listed in a product’s ingredient list.)
With a rich, velvety texture, the product earns its bona fides as a replenishing anti-aging serum. Whether it’s “great” is subjective. I’m personally obsessed with it.
What I don’t like about it: The efficacy claims on the product page are vague and even hyperbolic, specifically regarding clinical results.
Who it’s for: All skin types, especially dry skin.
SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Caldera + Lab The Great Anti-Aging Serum for $110 here.
The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex
What I like about it: At just $22, The INKEY List’s Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex is probably the best place to start your exosome journey. I love the transparency (or at least the avoidance of marketing deception!) that the brand takes around the messaging. By framing it as a glow-boosting serum, The INKEY List focuses on skin health and the appearance of healthy skin, rather than hyperbolic claims around the potential benefits of exosomes.
The brand describes it as “a glow serum powered by 3 million plant-based Exosomes to smooth, brighten and renew skin in 14 days* - no clinic required.” One key proven claim is that the plant-derived exosomes in the formula boost collagen production by 300%. Any boost in collagen is a huge win in my book. Protecting and replenishing collagen should be a focus of any effective skincare routine.
What I don’t like about it: As with all exosome serums, the true benefits are suspect until proven.
Who it’s for: All skin types.
SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex for $22 here.
6. Pros & Cons
My final thoughts: All three exosome serums – the Plated Intense Serum, the Caldera + Lab The Great Anti-Aging Serum, and The INKEY List’s Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex – have been a part of my daily skincare routines for the past several months.
Of them, the Plated Intense Serum is the most legitimate, relying on proven clinical science originating in the field of medicine. You are most likely to see exosome-derived results from this serum. A single, half-ounce, $258 bottled lasted me about six weeks. I used it one small pump nightly, smoothed over my entire face. I definitely saw smoother, more even, and refreshed skin in the harsh, dry winter air.
If you can’t afford this one, give one of the others a try.
FIND OUT WHICH SERUM PERFORMED BETTER – AND BY HOW MUCH!
The Ingredient List of the Plated Skin Science Intense Serum:
sii|h 0 0, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Panthenol 
so|h 0 0, Human Platelet Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 vc, Hyaluronic Acid sii|h, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Hydrolyzed Gelatin, Arginine sii, SilanetriolThe Ingredient List of the Caldera + Lab The Great Anti-Aging Serum:
Aqua/Water/Eau, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Squalane, Annona Cherimola Fruit Extract, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Ethyl Linoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Magnesium Sulfate, Niacinamide, Stearalkonium Hectorite, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Propylene Carbonate, Xanthan Gum, Betaine, Isomalt, Ethyl Oleate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Collagen Amino Acids, Potassium Sorbate, Propanediol, Ethyl Palmitate, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethyl Stearate, Mannitol, Sodium Citrate, Ethyl Linolenate, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid, Potassium Lactate, Phenylpropanol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Acetic Acid, Citric Acid, Methylpropanediol, Kefiran, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Leaf Extract, Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract, Rubia Cordifolia Root Extract, Withania Somnifera Root Extract, Sodium Ferrocyanide
The Ingredient List of The INKEY List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex:
sii|h 0 0, Propanediol solv|h, Coconut Alkanes emo|solv, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer vc, Dimethicone emo 0 1, Ectoin aox|so|h, Phenoxyethanol pres, Cetearyl Olivate emu, Sorbitan Olivate emu, Allantoin so 0 0, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Butylene Glycol h|solv 0 1, Lecithin emo|emu, Ubiquinone aox, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate emo, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Sodium Phytate chel, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract abrasive/scrub, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract so|aox|h, Dextran vc, Tripeptide-1 cci
IS IT REALLY A SCAM?
Find out on my TikTok channel.
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUMS FOR CLOGGED PORES AND A BRIGHTER COMPLEXION
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
SKINCARE HACKS: GLYCOLIC ACID IS THE NATURAL DEODORANT THAT WORKS!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST, GHOST DEMOCRACY AND MORE
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
COOL CLEAN FACIAL SUNSCREENS TO KEEP US SAFE AND SMILING IN THE SUN!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
THE OPULUS BEAUTY LABS RETINOL SYSTEM – THE COOLEST RETINOL INNOVATION I’VE EVER SEEN
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
A COMPLETE K-BEAUTY ROUTINE WITH THE BEST FACIAL SKINCARE FROM PURITO, COSRX, MISSHA & MORE!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW
THE YEAR’S BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS WITH PAULA'S CHOICE, SUNDAY RILEY, THE INKEY LIST AND MORE!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
A SELFCARE SUNDAY NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART – WITH THE PAULA’S CHOICE 25% AHA PEEL!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
