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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

DERMATOLOGIST SKINCARE BRAND SOBEL SKIN RX - SOME OF THE BEST ANTI-AGING FACE PRODUCTS FOR HEALTHY, YOUTHFUL SKIN

DERMATOLOGIST SKINCARE BRAND SOBEL SKIN RX - SOME OF THE BEST ANTI-AGING FACE PRODUCTS FOR HEALTHY, YOUTHFUL SKIN

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Guess what I had every morning this week. Coffee! For most of the past year, I was terrified to drink any coffee — or ingest anything with caffeine, including chocolate. It’s been a sure migraine trigger.

So, feeling recovery by the day, I dipped my toes into the water, caffeinated water, a little bit to see what would happen.

It seems I can tolerate no more than about 1/4 cup in the morning without some form of discomfort coming on. Hey, I’ll take it.

The last year has been a wild journey for me, for all of us. Like nothing I imagined and not all of it bad. Let’s just say it’s been a mixed bag, with super high peaks and really deep valleys.

Sometimes, that’s life, right? A seemingly outrageous mix of incredible joys and incredible sorrows. Wading through it, through good and bad, is what’s called living, I guess.

In all, Orpheus and I had a chill, quite expected week. Yoga, writing, cleaning around the house and, of course, a little coffee.

Funny, I think the highlight of that past few days was when I found the bottom part of my Dyson humidifier!

I know that sounds inane and trivial. But I haven’t been able to figure out where it was after the move to Brooklyn. I unpacked the top part, but that heavy bottom well that holds the water didn’t seem to make it across two rivers and a state line in the move.

I made it through the entire winter without a humidifier — my skin dry af. And admittedly, after searching high and low, in boxes of paperwork, boxes of clothes and boxes of skin care, I gave up. In the back of my mind, I was thinking I’d probably discover it when I moved again in a few years. In the meantime, I was ready to just outright buy another one sometime in the fall. They sure aren’t cheap!

But I found the damn humidifier base in a large, decorative leather box that sits next to the bed and functions as some sort of mini night-table. I was standing by it folding laundry and it suddenly hit me that I’d put it in there when I was packing for the move. The top part didn’t fit, so I packed it with clothes.

It was a wild moment of clarity that I attribute to the passing of the migraines. My mind is amping back up to full capacity. How crazy is that?

I’m looking forward to more unexpectedly surprising moments of clarity in the weeks to come…


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The skincare stuff starts here.

Like life, skin care is a journey too. When I think back to my first experiences with skin care, my own teenage struggle with oiliness comes to mind. As a teen, and as most teens, I used those awful alcohol and fragrance-soaked Stridex pads. (Funny, I just noticed that they’re now alcohol-free. Wow!)

I think that’s all I used; not even sure if I washed my face. I probably just assumed the alcohol-soaked cotton wipes were strong enough to do that too, since you can seemingly clean just about anything with them. Soiled kitchen counter? Reach for a Stridex pad!

What’s more likely though is that I used my shampoo on my face in the shower. I have an image in my head of exactly that when I imagine the showers in C-dorm back at Assumption College in Worcester, MA.

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College is where I mastered the art of writing, not the art of skin care.

Later, after graduation, and in my early days living in Los Angeles, I became aware of the importance of taking proper care of my skin.

I was a cosmetics department manager in a big retail store and had access to just about any products I could imagine — most of it for free.

Nearly every day, cosmetic company vendors would visit the store where I worked and bring me gratis — that is, free skin care. My favorite reps worked for Clinique and Lab Series — both Lauder companies — and they would regularly take me to their cars, parked in the mall parking lot.

In their trunks were dozens of product testers. I would often head back to my office located just behind one of the cosmetic counters with my arms full of skincare products — many of them icons today, like the Clinique Clarifying Lotion and Clinique Facial Soap. OMG that soap. You know the one; it came in a mint green plastic case.

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The Clinique brand’s number two version of Clarifying Lotion was my go-to for years; and, in retrospect, barely a step up from those overly aggressive Stridex pads with their outrageously high alcohol content. I swore by the stuff. My poor skin!

Funny, I haven’t looked at the INCI of Clinique’s iconic Clarifying Lotion in years — but I doubt it’s any better for the skin today.

Ugh. Of course, Denatured Alcohol is the second ingredient. I know it’s a dated formula, but seriously, Clinique? Witch hazel, menthol and three colorants? If Stridex can do it, you can do it.

So that’s where my skincare journey started — with Stridex and Clinique. It’s been a long, intriguing road. And it wasn’t until I moved to New York to work for Kiehl’s (as their first-ever copywriter) that my taste in skin care became, well, more refined.

It was then that I came to appreciate a whole new breed of skincare brands inspired by professional dermatologists, not marketing spin. Kiehl’s was founded as pharmacy and I loved that. In fact, until the 1970s, you could go to the Kiehl’s flagship store at Thirteenth and Third in Manhattan’s Lower East Side and pick up a prescription from your doctor. I would so have my migraine meds sent to the Kiehl’s pharmacy!

I was intrigued by the confluence of medicine and skin care in the 90s. One of the very first of these new derm-inspired brands to come to market was Dr. Howard Sobel’s original Doctors Dermatologic Formula, or DDF skincare, founded in 1991.

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One of the more well-known and sought-after cosmetic surgeons in New York City, Dr. Sobel was the first Editor-in-Chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic Surgery & Aesthetic Dermatology — a publication that bridged the fields of dermatology and cosmetic surgery.

DDF was well-established by the time we began to develop the Kiehl’s Dermatologist Solutions range in the early 2000s. And I distinctly recall benchmarking and drawing inspiration from Dr. Sobel’s DDF brand.

To me, it was a next level product and some of the most substantive skin care on the market. It felt legitimate, trustworthy — and a long way from the trips to the parking garage to scoop up free bottles of Clinique.

Skin care is indeed a journey, and an exciting one at that.

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Meet Sobel Skin Rx

I was a big fan of Dr. Sobel’s DDF Aloe Toning Complex. It was an amazing post-shave treatment. It was one of the very first skincare products I’d tried that was formulated by a dermatologist. It seemed different to me.

Like so many products that have come and gone, I still miss it. I miss the Kiehl’s Panthenol Protein Moisturizing Face Cream, too. Both formulas have since been discontinued. Sometimes that’s a good thing; they’d be dated and I probably wouldn’t want to use them today. Quite likely, they were loaded with silicones, parabens and all kinds of previously unknown toxins.

Dr. Sobel’s original DDF brand was sold to the beauty conglomerate P&G in 2007 — and I’m not sure what it even stands for now. Early this year, the legendary dermatologist recognized by New York Magazine as one of the best dermatologists in NYC, introduced an entirely new skincare brand.

Sobel Skin Rx feels as industry-leading to me now as DDF did back then.


“Helping people to have better emotional well being and good self image has always given me great satisfaction. Your skin is usually the first thing that is seen by others and evaluated prior to any communication. That makes good skin care a priority for one’s overall physical and mental well being.” – Dr. Howard Sobel


Dubbed “activated cosmeceuticals,” Sobel Skin Rx is a range of eight clinical, professional-grade treatments that directly meet the most popular skincare trends today. None of his new formulas were even possible back then. Niacinamide in 1991? Hah!

Sobel Skin Rx is a collection of clean skincare with highly concentrated levels of actives. Says Dr. Sobel, “Sobel Skin Rx is all about the active ingredients. You’ll find them at the very top of all of our ingredient lists, so you know that the product you’re getting is the real deal and not just hype.”

The Sobel Skin Rx 30% Glycolic Acid Peel is a top-shelf chemical exfoliant that scares the hell out of me — in a good way. The 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment is no joke. The Sobel Skin Rx Vitamin C treatment is formulated with three forms of Vitamin C for a 35% concentration of the antioxidant power brightener. And, Dr. Sobel’s new 15% Niacinamide serum is a super cool gel formula — my favorite product in the new range.

Let’s have a look at a three of the products in Dr. Sobel’s new collection…


**EXCLUSIVE SKINCARMA GIVEAWAY**

ENTER BELOW TO WIN THE SOBEL SKIN RX 4.5% RETINOL NIGHT TREATMENT! ($105 VALUE)


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Sobel Skin Rx | 15% Niacinamide Gel Serum

Reminiscent of Dr. Sobel’s original DDF Skincare Aloe Toning Complex, the Sobel Skin Rx 15% Niacinamide Gel Serum is my fave product from his new range.

The 15% Niacinamide Gel Serum is actually quite a unique experience. It has a thick, pulpy gel texture that feels really elegant on the skin — and feels more luxurious than any other Niacinamide serum I’ve ever tried.

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As the name implies, the 15% Niacinamide Gel Serum has a 15% concentration of Niacinamide, which is right up there with the Paula’s Choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment.

The Sobel Skin Rx 15% Niacinamide Gel Serum is a tight, clean formulation with just 11 ingredients, including soothing Allantoin, Cucumber Fruit Extract, Chamomile Extract and even Bisabolol — the active component of chamomile with the ability to eliminate and prevent irritation.

Interestingly, this skin-soothing complex of Allantoin, Cucumber Fruit Extract, Chamomile Extract is a feature of several of the Sobel Skin Rx formulas.


What is Niacinamide?

Every time I talk about Niacinamide, I feel the need to stress the unique qualities of Niacinamide — and the remarkable benefits that Vitamin B3 can have for the skin. It’s the one active I use both AM and PM.

Of course, I turn to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team:

“Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid, niacinamide is a very effective skin-restoring ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging and blemish-prone skin. Among these benefits is the ability to visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, dullness, and a weakened skin surface.

Niacinamide can also mitigate and to some extent help visibly repair damage from UV light and offset other sources of environmental attack, including the negative impact of various types of airborne pollutants. Unlike many beneficial ingredients, niacinamide is stable in the presence of heat and light.”


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And that soothing complex is certainly welcome since Niacinamide can cause flushing in some people. Personally, I’ve never experienced any reaction when using Niacinamide — and that includes the new 100% Niacinamide Powder from The Ordinary.

It’s a cool formula and a product that I always look forward to using, which always says a lot.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Sobel Skin Rx 15% Niacinamide Gel Serum for $75 here.



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Sobel Skin Rx | 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment

What I believe to be the top-selling treatment from Dr. Sobel’s new brand, the Sobel Skin Rx 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment is a legit anti-aging cream with Retinol. After all, it sits right at the top of the search results on the Sephora website.

Out of all of today’s most popular skincare trends, anti-aging Retinol is perhaps one of the most serious (and potent!) topical treatments to come out of the dermatologist office. In fact, the purest, most effective form of the anti-aging molecule, Retin-A, still requires a prescription.

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As crazy as it sounds, I know a lot of people who bring back tubes of prescription-strength Retinol creams like Retin-A from trips to Mexico. If you’ve ever been, you know there are displays of Retin-A boxes throughout the airports in Mexican cities — piled high at checkout stands. I’m guilty of picking up a few myself for friends and family.

So, I completely get the appeal of an intense treatment like the Sobel Skin Rx 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment — and why it’s atop Sephora’s best-sellers.

I haven’t had great luck with Tretinoin, the powerful prescription medication also known as Retin-A. That said, a concentration of 4.5% Retinol is a lot for an OTC skincare product and I have proceeded with the utmost caution when using it.

It terrifies me for good reason.

My first foray into Retinol treatments was the Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment. I nearly burned my face off the first time I used it.

So, I’ve applied Dr. Sobel’s new formula every third night or so — and haven’t even dared to try it on consecutive nights. I know my skin, and I know it’s just too much for me. I guess I’m sensitive like that. All Leos are, aren’t they?

Like the other treatments in the Sobel Skin Rx collection, the 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment contains a complex of skin-soothing actives, including Aloe Barbadnesis Leaf Extract and Chamomile Extract. I love that Dr. Sobel is concerned about how skin will react to his hyper-active treatments. Without the personal care his patients are accustomed to receiving at his NYC practice, I can appreciate that.

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What is Retinol?

Considered among the best actives used in skin care, here’s what the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team have to say:

“Retinol is a powerhouse ingredient that has value for skin on several fronts: It’s a skin-restoring, wrinkle-smoothing, firming ingredient and an antioxidant, allowing it to improve a variety of skin concerns, most related to visible signs of aging.

“Many consumers are concerned about the percentage of retinol in anti-aging products such as serums or moisturizers. Although the percentage can make a difference (especially if it’s too low), it’s not helpful in understanding how a retinol product will benefit your skin. Far more important is the delivery system, packaging, and the other ingredients present with the retinol. 

Using a product with a range of anti-aging ingredients plus retinol is far more valuable for skin than using a product with only a supposedly high percentage of retinol. Skin needs far more than any one ingredient can provide, however great that one ingredient may be. See our article on this topic for detailed information.

There are several myths about using retinol with other anti-aging ingredients or products, such as those with vitamin C or exfoliants like glycolic acid. See our article on this topic to learn what the research has shown to be true.”


Dr. Sobel’s new Retinol treatment isn’t only powered by Retinol, perhaps the best anti-aging treatment for all skin types and skin concerns. The 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment also contains an anti-aging complex of ceramides and peptides to plump and nourish skin.

It’s not for the faint of heart; but if you’re looking for a good anti-aging treatment without having to fly all the way to Mexico to get it, you may want to consider the Sobel Skin Rx 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Sobel Skin Rx 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment for $105 here.


**EXCLUSIVE SKINCARMA GIVEAWAY**

ENTER BELOW TO WIN THE SOBEL SKIN RX 4.5% RETINOL NIGHT TREATMENT! ($105 VALUE)



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Sobel Skin | Rx 30% Glycolic Acid Peel:

I’ve been on sort of an acid trip the last few weeks. No, I’m not admitting to a drug problem on the blog (there isn’t one). I’m talking about exfoliating acid toners. They are kind of a hot product category lately and it seems that every brand now has one.

That’s a good thing, as long as it’s put into perspective and used properly. I reviewed some of the best exfoliating toners for face last week in a blog article titled, Acid Toners – Some of the Best BHA / AHA Toners for Face. If you missed it, I invite you to check it out here.

In the article, I shared about the desquamation process by which the skin exfoliates dead surface skin cells. It does quite an effective job on its own. Because of that, I don’t believe that you actually need to do much in the way of exfoliation; but, if you’re going to use some sort of exfoliant, at least opt for a chemical treatment over a physical face scrub.

What’s the difference between chemical and physical exfoliation?

As I pointed out in the article, physical scrubs can be quite damaging to the vital, yet delicate skin barrier. There’s quite an insightful article on the Paula’s Choice website titled, Exfoliation: The Skin Care Step You Never Knew You Needed. In it, the Paula’s Choice Research Team explains the differences between chemical and physical exfoliation and the dangers of using a face scrub.

“Daily, gentle exfoliation with a leave-on product is a complete game-changer for every skin type and skin concern. Adding this one step to your routine is the fastest, most effective way to get radiant, smooth, hydrated, blemish-free, even-toned skin.

“AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) and BHA (beta hydroxy acid) exfoliants help skin shed dead cells more quickly, the way it did before age and environmental factors began to slow that process. These acids are also the gentlest way to exfoliate, and they nourish and transform the look of your skin in ways no brush or scrub can.

“Despite the popularity of facial scrubs, most are too harsh and abrasive; they can cause tiny tears that damage skin over time, even if that damage isn’t immediately visible. Even the best scrubs, while they do have benefits, can’t produce the same results as an AHA or BHA exfoliant.”

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While I didn’t include the Sobel Skin Rx 30% Glycolic Acid Peel in my article on acid toners, it’s quite an effective treatment — and, I’d say, one of the best exfoliating toners I’ve come across.

I do want to stress that if you’re planning to incorporate an acid toner like the Sobel Skin Rx 30% Glycolic Acid Peel into your skincare routine, it is not a replacement for a hydrating toner. Don’t be tripped up by the loose marketing term “toner”. Application of an acid toner should immediately follow cleansing and toning — and precede the use of any water-based serums.

Dr. Sobel’s 30% Glycolic Acid Peel is not for beginners. As the name indicates, it contains a 30% concentration of the most potent of the alpha hydroxy acids. But don’t be overly alarmed. To optimize its full potency, Glycolic Acid requires a pH of between 3.5 and 4. Were the pH within that range, the Sobel Skin Rx 30% Glycolic Acid Peel would be quite potent — and I’d venture to say too potent for at-home use. By my measurement, the formula has a pH between 4-5, making it relatively effective as an exfoliant but not in the extreme.

I know for a fact that it’s not as harsh as the name implies because my skin wouldn’t be able to tolerate it.

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The 30% Glycolic Acid Peel INCI is tight, with just 13 ingredients in all, four of which are intended to soothe any potential irritation, including Allantoin, Calendula Extract, Chamomile Extract and Cucumber Extract. There’s also a bit of humectant Sodium Hyaluronate, the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid that’s more skin compatible.

A single, moderately soaked cotton ball or pad is all you need to achieve a safe level of exfoliation to sweep away dead surface skin cells and ignite the complexion. And, I caution, not every day. Remember, skin doesn’t need much help!

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Sobel Skin Rx 30% Glycolic Acid Peel for $46 here.


That’s it guys! It’s such an honor to introduce you to Dr. Howard Sobel’s new clinically active skincare brand. And, of course, be sure to enter the exclusive giveaway just below for a chance to win the Sobel Skin Rx 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment ($105 value) — and save yourself a trip to Mexico.

🖤 SKINCARMA


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SKINCARMA….

GIVEAWAY!

Enter to win the Sobel Skin Rx 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment ($105 value) — one of the most powerful Retinol treatment available without a prescription (or a trip to Mexico!).

Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 08/30/2020.


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The Ingredient List of the Sobel Skin Rx 15% Niacinamide Gel Serum:

Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Allantoin, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract,Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract,Bisabolol,Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Phenoxyethnaol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

Sobel Skin Rx 15% Niacinamide Gel Serum

The Ingredient List of the Sobel Skin Rx 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment

Purified Water, Retinol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (10% Retinoid Ester 240,000 IU/gm), Aloe Barbadnesis Leaf Extract, Chamomile Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Phenylethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Shea Butter, Ceramide III, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract. 

Sobel Skin Rx 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment

The Ingredient List of the Sobel Skin Rx 35% Vitamin C Face Serum:

Purified Water, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, PEG-8 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Chondrus Chrispus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose.

Sobel Skin Rx 35% Vitamin C Face Serum

The Ingredient List of the Sobel Skin Rx 30% Glycolic Acid Peel:

Purified Water, Glycolic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Allantoin, Calendula Extract, Chamomile Extract, Cucumber Extract, Sodium PCA, Witch Hazel, Sodium Hylauronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Sobel Skin Rx 30% Glycolic Acid Peel

PRODUCT REVIEW: SOBEL SKIN RX 15% NIACINAMIDE GEL SERUM - ONE OF THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUMS FOR BRIGHTER SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: SOBEL SKIN RX 15% NIACINAMIDE GEL SERUM - ONE OF THE BEST NIACINAMIDE SERUMS FOR BRIGHTER SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: BIOTOC MEDI NANOPEN PRO – BEST MICRO-NEEDLING DEVICE FOR MORE YOUTHFUL SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: BIOTOC MEDI NANOPEN PRO – BEST MICRO-NEEDLING DEVICE FOR MORE YOUTHFUL SKIN