SKINCARMA-HatMark.jpg

Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: KAT BURKI GOJI ESSENCE - BEST LACTIC ACID TREATMENT, BEST FERMENTED ESSENCE
IMG_9157.jpg

Kat Burki | Goji Essence

This review was originally part of my blog article titled, Brands I Love: Kat Burki Skincare Based on Nutritional Science - Best Brightening Face Cream, Best Moisture Mask for Dry Skin. You can catch the full piece here.

Over the last few weeks I’ve been immersing myself in this wonderful, mysterious skincare brand, Kat Burki.

I have had my eye on Kat Burki’s namesake brand for some time now. But, curiously, I hadn’t had the opportunity to try out any of the celebrity nutritionist’s products until the beginning of this year.

I gotta say wow.

It’s rare that I discover a brand that I like this much. Sure, I come across products I like (even love!) often. But with every one of Kat Burki’s products, the experience is pure skincare joy for me, every time. There’s just so much nourishing, pro-skin health goodness in the formulas. And she nails it with the textures, too.

IMG_9420.jpg

While I’ve enjoyed it all, I gotta say there’s nothing like Kat Burki’s Goji Essence — one of my favorite product discoveries of 2021. I’ve read it’s Kat’s personal fave and I can understand why. There’s just something about it that makes my skin come alive. (Psst…I take a deep dive into Goji Essence just below.)

I’ve also been smitten by the Kat Burki Vital Hydration Blast, featured in my #selfcaresunday video on my YouTube channel a couple of weeks ago. If you missed it, you can still catch it here for your own #selfcaresunday session this coming weekend!

I’m not even close to exaggerating when I say that Kat’s Vital Hydration Blast is one of the most luxurious, skin-pampering moisture masks I’ve ever tried. I can’t get enough of it and have often left it on for hours on end. The longer, the better.

The Vital Hydration Blast is a rich, creamy blend of Kat’s proprietary KB5 antioxidant complex — combined with multiple non-fragrant plant oils and extracts, botanical Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C, ceramides, peptides and more. Seriously, it’s next-level clean luxury skincare and the perfect #selfcaresunday treat.

WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

CHILLIN ON SELFCARE SUNDAY WITH KAT BURKI AND THIS BOMB HYDRATING MASK!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


You might be wondering, as I had been, who exactly Kat Burki is — and why her skincare is so exceptional. How have I missed out all this time? I hadn’t been able to find many insights about her online, or the impetus behind launching the brand, so I reached out to Kat’s team.

IMG_9169.jpg

Kat Burki actually majored in nutrition in college. And, like me with my initial French major, she didn’t think there were great career options. So she pursued a masters in the field of health law.

(And I pursued a degree in English. Good thing I did, or you’d be struggling to read this in French. Mon dieu!)

From the brand: “After completing her Juris Doctorate in health law, she added a graduate degree in health policy which saw her weaving in her knowledge of health, wellness and nutrition. With the bigger focus on how to keep people healthy, she had found her true calling, applying her expertise to the pursuit of longevity.”

The pursuit of longevity. Et voilà! The impetus behind the Kat Burki brand.

While her deep knowledge of nutrition and its effects on overall health was the central underpinning of her career, it was only upon meeting skincare formulators who specialized in cold processing of natural ingredients that she saw the opportunity to apply what she knew about health and nutrition to skin care products.

“It felt like I was being pulled back, in a creative direction, via my first love of nutrition. I had a moment: recognising that the skin is an organ on the outside of the body that we can fix, depending on what we use on it. Everything else is on the inside and has to by-pass a complicated digestive system,” says Kat Burki.

And so the marvelous, nutrient-dense, wellness-based Kat Burki skincare brand was born.

IMG_9175.jpg

What Is Cold Pressed Skincare and Are Cold Processed Ingredients Better?

If you’re unfamiliar with the process of cold-pressing ingredients for a skincare formula, it’s actually quite interesting — and increasingly popular. You may have heard reference to cold-pressed oils; they’re common in some of the best natural facial oils for dry skin.

The process of cold-processing ingredients, rather than relying on a heat distillation method, helps to preserve the beneficial nutrients of botanical actives — like the pro-skin health fats and proteins found in plant oils. I equate it to the difference between eating vegetables raw and cooking them. Oftentimes, the cooking process destroys some of the nutrient content of our foods.

Let’s hear it for those who can stick to a raw diet! That’s certainly not me. I have yet to come across a raw pepperoni pizza that I’ve enjoyed eating.

I found an article on the Allure website titled, The Science Behind Cold-Pressed Skin-Care Ingredients, Explained. Feel welcome to read the entire piece here. This is what I found most salient:

Almost every foodie buzzword — organic, gluten-free, vegan — eventually migrates from the frozen-goods section to the beauty aisle. The latest to make the leap: cold-pressed. Once the hallmark of truly expensive juices everywhere, the term is now proudly printed on face oils and creams.

Saying something is cold-pressed means it was processed or extracted without involving high heat levels, which can destroy good-for-your-skin things like proteins and the fats in oils, says cosmetic chemist Ginger King.

But that's not to suggest you have to worry about all the skin-care products that aren't cold-pressed: Cosmetic chemists know to keep formulas below 45 degrees Celsius (113 degrees Fahrenheit) so that ingredients aren't compromised during the formulation.

Still, seeing “cold-pressed” can be an indicator of the quality of ingredients in a formula, particularly for oils: “Cold-pressing preserves the integrity of omega 6 and 9,” says King. “So it's nice to see that term next to each of the oils in a formula.” The catch: The term isn't FDA-regulated, so it's up to brands to be honest about whether their ingredients do or don't fall into the category.


Let’s take a look at one of my favorite products from Kat Burki’s range of skincare that takes care of the health and wellness of the skin — from the outside in…

IMG_9168.jpg

Kat Burki | Goji Essence

Oh em gee. If you’ve never used a skincare product that feels like life on your skin, you haven’t lived. This stuff is lit.

The Kat Burki Goji Essence is a remarkable fermented acid toner that lights up my skin on contact. I always know when I’ve used it because I’ll catch myself glowing hours later in the bathroom mirror. What is it about this essence that feels so exceptional on my skin, though?

IMG_9166.jpg

I suspect it starts with Kat’s nutrient-dense KB5 antioxidant complex. But don’t quote me.

The brand’s signature blend of five nutrient-dense botanical extracts (Arnica Flower Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Lavender Flower Water, Calendula Flower Water and Chamomile Flower Water) just does something exceptional on the skin.

I don’t know what. But I bet Kat does! It’s her personal go-to product for a reason.

The Goji Essence’s oomph is powered by 5% Lactic Acid, plant cell extracts, the plumping Matrixyl-3000 peptide complex and, of course, power-antioxidant Goji Berry Extract, from which the product derives its name. No joke, it really feels like liquid skin health in a bottle — and a heavy green glass one at that!

Here’s how the brand describes Kat’s favorite product from her namesake range:

“Kat Burki’s personal go-to anti-aging product, this powerful essence is a triple threat of super foods, super acids and super peptides. Combined, these impeccable ingredients create a formula that gently exfoliates, helps moderate the skin renewal cycle and creates the powerful blurring effect that peptides and Lactic Acids are known for.”

IMG_9174.jpg

What Is Lactic Acid and What Does Lactic Acid Do for the Skin?

Lactic Acid is my favorite of the range of alpha hydroxy acids. My skin seems to love it often and at any concentration. That’s not something I can say about it’s more powerful AHA partner in crime, Glycolic Acid.

But what makes it so uniquely effective? There’s a great piece on the benefits of Lactic Acid written by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, Lactic Acid for Skin. You can catch the full article here.

Lactic acid is a skin care ingredient that quickly delivers numerous benefits when applied in a well-formulated exfoliating product. When used in a pH-correct formula (whether designed to be left on skin or in a high-strength peel that’s rinsed after several minutes), lactic acid works by gently breaking the bonds that hold dead, dry skin cells to the surface.

If you’re using a rinse-off peel with lactic acid, do so once weekly or every other week. Apply the peel to cleansed skin, leave on for the designated amount of time, rinse, and follow with the rest of your skincare routine.

These dead cells shed on their own when we’re young, but sun damage, aging, and certain skin issues can slow or even stop this process, leading to a buildup of dead skin that creates a dull, older-looking complexion. Regular use of an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) like lactic acid can turn this around.

As with other acids, research shows lactic acid’s ability to exfoliate effectively depends on the product’s acid concentration, with amounts between 5-12% having reliably impressive results.


IMG_9556.jpg

ACID TONERS – SOME OF THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, FARMACY AND MORE

Funny thing, I love using Kat Burki’s Goji Essence so much (and so often!) that I get scared my skin will become sensitized when I do. But it never does. There are times when I’ve even double-dipped — using it once right after cleansing and then again 20 minutes later for no explicable reason whatsoever. I just want to.

I honestly can’t get enough of it. You have to try Kat’s Goji Essence for yourself to believe it.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Kat Burki Goji Essence for $170 here.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

A SUPER SELFCARE SUNDAY WITH MY FAVE SKIN NUTRITIONIST, KAT BURKI!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE



IMG_9233.jpg

The Ingredient List of the Kat Burki Vitamin C Intensive Face Cream:

The Ingredient List of the Kat Burki Nutrient C Eye Cream:

KB5™ Complex (Arnica Montana (Arnica), Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola), Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender), Calendula Officinalis (Calendula), Matricaria Recutita (Chamomile)), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (Aloe), Rosa Canina Seed Oil (Rosehip Seed Oil), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Niacinamide (Vitamin B-3), Dimethyl MEA (DMAE), Tocopheryl (Vitamin E), Panthenol (Vitamin B-5), Rovisome Retinol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Natural Fragrance, Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative, less than 1%), Phenoxyethanol (Preservative, less than 1%), Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene.

The Ingredient List of the Kat Burki Goji Essence:

KB5™ Complex (Arnica Montana (Arnica), Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola), Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender), Calendula Officinalis (Calendula), Matricaria Recutita (Chamomile)), Goji Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Globularia Cordifolia Callus Culture Extract (Plant Stem Cells), Silk Protein Amino Acid Blend (Sodium Pca, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Lecithin, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine), Matrixyl-3000 (Glycerin, Water, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate-20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green Tea), Ubiquinone (Coq10), Sodium Lactate (Lactic Acid), Bursera Linaloe Wood Oil (Linaloe), Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil (Orange), Citrus Aurantium Leaf Oil (Orange), Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil (Mandarin Orange), Caprylyl Glucoside (Plantasol), Natural Fragrance, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene.

The Ingredient List of the Kat Burki Dual Exfoliating Clay Mask:

Arnica Montana (Arnica) Flower Extract*, Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract*, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Leaf Extract*, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria/Chamomile) Flower Extract*, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract*, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Kaolin Clay, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Retinol (Rovisome), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Hippophae Rhamnoides (Seabuckthorn) Oil, Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Seed Oil, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C/STAY-C), Sclerotium Gum, Ubiquinone (CoQ10), Panthenol (Vitamin B-5), Sodium Lactate (Lactic Acid), Calophyllum Inophyllum (Tamanu) Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (Botanical Hyaluronic Acid), Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (Botanical Hyaluronic Acid), Glycolic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Lysolecithin, Phytic Acid, Pullulan, Polysorbate 20, Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Capsicum Annuum (Cayenne) Extract, Myrica Esculenta (Bayberry) Bark Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Vinca Major (Periwinkle) Extract, Mahonia Aquifolium (Oregon Grape) Root Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grapeseed) Seed/Skin/Stem Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Sweet Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry Fibers) Seed Powder, Hibiscus Rosa-Sinensis (Hibiscus) Flower Powder, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (Lemongrass) Oil, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Benzyl Alcohol (Preservative), Dehydroacetic Acid/Sodium Dehydroacetate (Preservative), Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative), Parfum/Fragrance (Natural), Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene.

PRODUCT REVIEW: ONE SKIN OS-01 TOPICAL SUPPLEMENT - BEST PEPTIDE FACE CREAM, BEST ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZER WITH PEPTIDES

PRODUCT REVIEW: ONE SKIN OS-01 TOPICAL SUPPLEMENT - BEST PEPTIDE FACE CREAM, BEST ANTI-AGING MOISTURIZER WITH PEPTIDES

PRODUCT REVIEW: KAT BURKI VITAMIN C INTENSIVE FACE CREAM - BEST BRIGHTENING FACE CREAM, BEST BRIGHTENING MOISTURIZER

PRODUCT REVIEW: KAT BURKI VITAMIN C INTENSIVE FACE CREAM - BEST BRIGHTENING FACE CREAM, BEST BRIGHTENING MOISTURIZER