PRODUCT REVIEW: REPLENIX GLYCOLIC ACID 20% RESURFACING CREAM – BEST EXFOLIATING FACE CREAM, BEST MOISTURIZER WITH GLYCOLIC ACID
REPLENIX | GLYCOLIC ACID 20% RESURFACING CREAM
This product review was originally part of my blog article titled, Seasonal Skincare Transitioning: Moisturizers I Love that Make Me Excited for Cold Weather - Part One – Best Hydrating Moisturizers, Best Face Creams for Dry Skin. You can catch the full piece here.
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As I do each fall, I’m publishing my two-part series of what I consider to be among the best moisturizers for colder weather. That is, face creams ideal for dry, dehydrated skin no matter the skin type. Contrary to commonly held beliefs, even oily skin needs extra moisture during periods of low-humidity. When the air around us is very dry, it drains the water (and the life!) out of our face.
Around this same time last year, I kicked off my FW20 series of my top ten cold weather face creams in a blog article titled, Winter Moisturizers Part I – Some of the Best Face Creams for Dry Skin and All Skin Types in Cold Weather. If you missed it, by chance, you can read it here.
Then, a couple of weeks later, I published Winter Moisturizers Part 2, which you can read here. The second in the series happened to feature two richer face creams that I still love using a year later.
WINTER MOISTURIZERS PART 2 – SOME OF THE BEST FACE CREAMS FOR DRY SKIN AND ALL SKIN TYPES IN COLD WEATHER
The first of the two is Youth to the People’s Adaptogen Deep Moisture Cream. It not only comforts dry, dehydrated skin but it can help calm skin that’s become sensitized and raw from the harsh, cold air. I’ve been there and I know first hand how the cold can compromise the health of your skin.
The Adaptogen Deep Moisture Cream is a rich blend of nourishing and replenishing plant oils, antioxidant botanical extracts and skin-calming adaptogens. Among its moisturizing oils are Sunflower Oil, at ingredient number two, Squalane, Jojoba Seed Oil and Shea Butter. In the cold, that’s exactly what skin needs. But the star actives, as indicated in the product name, are two adaptogens, Ashwagandha Extract and Reishi Mushroom Extract, which can help to calm overactive, stressed-out skin.
PRODUCT REVIEW: YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE ADAPTOGEN DEEP MOISTURE CREAM – BEST MOISTURIZER FOR IRRITATED SKIN
To this day, I consider Youth to the People’s Adaptogen Deep Moisture Cream the best moisturizer with adaptogens to calm irritated skin. There’s nothing else like it.
The second notable stand-out from my FW20 series is the Jaxon Lane’s Relax and Repair moisturizer. The brand behind the popular Bro Mask, the Jaxon Lane Relax and Repair comes in a tube (which I love!) and is infused with beneficial, pro-skin health, anti-aging actives like Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, collagen and ceramides.
It’s one of the best face creams for men — at least one that’s marketed for men. I don’t have much faith in products made for men; skin is skin. And all skin needs the same things — many of them in Jaxon Lane’s fantastic face cream.
PRODUCT REVIEW: JAXON LANE RELAX AND REPAIR – BEST FACE CREAM FOR DRY SKIN, BEST FACE CREAM FOR MEN
What’s the Difference between Dry Skin and Dehydrated Skin?
Many people confuse the two. They’re not the same thing. Dry skin is a skin type. Dehydrated skin is a skin condition, just as being thirsty is a sign that your body is dehydrated. Dehydrated skin lacks water and any skin type, no matter its level of dryness or oiliness can be dehydrated.
In particular, dehydration is something that’s common to all of us in the cold as the low-humidity air around us draws water through the skin barrier and out of our skin. This process is referred to as trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL. (More on TEWL in my review of the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Boost 360° Eye Cream below.)
As the cold weather kicks in, I think it’s helpful to understand the difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin in order to protect your skin health in the weeks ahead. For insights, I turned to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team. There’s a superb piece on the Paula’s Choice site titled, What is Dehydrated Skin & How to Choose the Best Products.
Here is an excerpt:
Dehydrated skin often looks and feels like dry skin all over your face, but there's a major difference between the two: dehydrated skin is usually a temporary concern (with various surprising causes) and dry skin typically doesn't change over time. If you have dehydrated skin, your skin may also produce a normal or even excessive amount of oil on its surface.
"Dehydrated skin" is something we’re asked about frequently. It seems there’s a lot of confusion about what this skin concern is about. A major part of the confusion is that the term "dehydrated skin" is often used interchangeably with "dry skin" or "combination skin" but they are not the same! Dehydrated skin can occur in all skin types and is not exclusive to those with dry skin or combination skin.
The Difference Between Dry Skin and Dehydrated Skin
Having classically dry skin is easy to recognize. Dry skin frequently feels tight and dry, with no oil anywhere to be seen. This situation rarely fluctuates; skin feels dry all year long. The dryness might get worse depending on the climate, season, or activity, but regardless of those things, without great skin care products, the uncomfortable dry, tight feeling will persist.
As mentioned above, dehydrated skin can look and feel similar, but there’s a major difference: Dehydrated skin tends to come and go, it does not persist.
MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST AND MORE - BEST HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS
The Skincarma “Lock and Block” Prevents Dehydration
To start, preventing dehydration in the first place requires drinking enough water. That differs for each of us based on our weight, the foods we eat, and the climate we live in. It’s even more important during colder periods.
A good rule is to drink one ounce of water each day for every pound of body weight. So, if you weigh 150 lbs., you’ll need to drink 150 ounces of water each and every day to keep your body and your skin optimally hydrated.
Then, employing skincare to treat and prevent dehydration requires what I refer to as a “lock and block” strategy.
It begins with a dedicated humectant serum applied to the skin in both your AM and PM routines that helps to lock water in. Follow with a moisturizer composed of a healthy balance of both humectants and oils to block and prevent the trans-epidermal water loss that can lead to dehydration.
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST, GHOST DEMOCRACY AND MORE
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
The moisturizers I’ve selected below all deliver a lock and block effect by locking hydration into the skin with humectants and blocking TEWL with effective levels of non-fragrant plant oils and/or lipids — essentially fats in the skin.
Today I’m presenting the first part of my FW21 series on cold weather face creams, a collection that includes some of the best moisturizers for combatting dry, dehydrated skin — no matter the skin type.
This year, I’ve selected four distinct moisturizers and designated the unique skin type that I believe it’s best for — one in each of the main categories. In the title, you’ll see new designations for DRY SKIN, OILY / BLEMISH PRONE SKIN, SENSITIVE SKIN and ALL SKIN TYPES.
Additionally, at the end of each review, you’ll find a new section that breaks down what I like and don’t about the product as well as a deeper explanation of who I think it’s best for based on the formula make-up, texture and my own experience with it.
Among my selections in part one below is a face cream that I featured on the blog several times throughout 2020, the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream. It’s a really smart, well-formulated product and simply among the best face creams for dry skin. In the last year, Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream, or TLPC for short, has catapulted to the top of Sephora’s nearly endless collection of moisturizers. As I write this, it’s the number one face cream in the moisturizer category on the Sephora website.
Peace Out’s Repairing Moisturizer is formulated specifically for oily and blemish prone skin year-round, but I found it worked great on my own skin throughout much of the year and I’ve been eager to share it.
My favorite skincare brand for sensitive skin, First Aid Beauty introduced its rich, luxurious, thick-whipped Ultra Repair Firming Collagen Cream several months ago. If you have dry, sensitive skin, this one is for you.
One of my favorite brand experiences of 2021, Replenix offers clinical skincare formulated with what the brand describes as “medical grade ingredients”. And the brand’s Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream is exceptional. With a 20% Glycolic Acid complex, I was terrified to use it at first; I’m now a convert.
I’m also including one of my favorite eye creams, the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Boost 360° Eye Cream. It’s one which I think every skin type can and will benefit from.
Let’s have a look at one of the FW21 face cream picks which I consider ideal for cold weather in part one of the series…
BEST FOR ALL SKIN TYPES:
Replenix | Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream
About five years ago, I discovered a skincare hack that I continue to use every single day. If you’ve been following my skincare journey for a while you know that I use a Glycolic Acid treatment of some kind — either an acid-based treatment toner or an acid-infused pad — as my daily deodorant. If you’re curious about how and why it works, check out my original blog article here.
What you may not know is that one of the very first Glycolic Acid treatments I ever began using as a deodorant is the Replenix Gly/Sal 5-2 Pads! One of the drawbacks to using Glycolic Acid in place of a deodorant is that these products are hacks — they’re not developed for use as a deodorant, let along for use in your armpits. For a lot of people, the idea of pouring a liquid toner into their palms then massaging their underarm area is just too weird. And of course, they’re certainly not priced like a daily deodorant.
SKINCARE HACKS: GLYCOLIC ACID IS THE NATURAL DEODORANT THAT WORKS!
I was on the hunt for something more convenient than a toner and the Replenix Gly/Sal 5-2 Pads were the perfect option. In fact, as I recall, they were the only legit Glycolic Acid pads on the market at the time. They’re convenient, affordable, and they really get the job done!
So I’ve been a real fan of Replenix for quite a while now. The brand was created in 1981 exclusively for use by professional dermatologists in their offices. But over the last five years or so Replenix has really taken off. Based on serious dermatological science, the brand has introduced many powerful, pro-skin health products.
Among these is the Replenix Vitamin C Pro Collagen Serum. It’s a high-potency, Vitamin C-infused dry oil and a win for dry skin. With a 20% concentration of three forms of Vitamin C, it rivals the brightening and antioxidant potency of some of the most iconic Vitamin C serums available, including the SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, the Sunday Riley C. E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum and even the Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster.
Psst…you can check out my collection of the best Vitamin C serums here.
So, while my first experience of Replenix dates back several years, I’ve only just begun to really explore the numerous product innovations that the brand has to offer. Given my infatuation with the Replenix Vitamin C Pro Collagen Serum, I was eager to try the brand’s Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream — though it was with the utmost trepidation.
First, let me say that the Replenix Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream is not a moisturizer; that is, it doesn’t moisturize the skin. Since it has no plant oils or lipids that can replenish lost moisture and oils in the skin, it will not moisturize. It does, however, contain humectants that will prevent water loss to keep skin hydrated. This is why it’s so important to understand the difference between moisture (oil-based) and hydration (water-based).
As I said previously, the Replenix Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream is truly exceptional; it’s an extraordinary exfoliating and hydrating treatment. My skin doesn’t always respond well to Glycolic Acid but I was so intrigued by this unusual exfoliating face cream I had to give a try. I don’t believe there’s anything like it in the world of skincare. At least I haven’t come across anything like it.
What Is Glycolic Acid and What Does Glycolic Acid Do to Your Face?
Glycolic Acid is, of course, the most effective and potent of the range of alpha hydroxy acids — with the greatest ability to resurface the complexion. The range of AHA’s includes many superstar actives used in the best exfoliating serums, creams, toners and moisturizers, including Lactic Acid and Citric Acid. Glycolic Acid is the most potent and least tolerated by the skin. Mandelic Acid, at the opposite end of the AHA spectrum, is the gentlest and most well-tolerated.
There is an insightful article from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, Glycolic Acid: What It Is and Why You Should Use It. In it, the experts expound on the many superb benefits of Glycolic Acid for the skin.
Glycolic Acid Benefits
Using an exfoliant with glycolic acid for your face results in a brighter, more even toned complexion. Like all AHAs, glycolic acid works by helping turn over spent cells on skin’s surface.
This type of exfoliation addresses numerous skin concerns, including sun damage, uneven tone, rough, flaky patches of skin, fine lines, and wrinkles. In higher concentrations, glycolic acid can even improve the look of deeper wrinkles.
Studies also show that glycolic acid significantly increases skin’s hydration. It does this by helping skin make substances like mucopolysaccharides, which help skin stay hydrated by increasing its natural content of hyaluronic acid, which in turn enhances skin’s resilience.
One exciting new note about glycolic acid: emerging research shows it might even protect skin against UV damage (in addition to reducing its damaging after-effects), though more studies need to be done and of course it doesn’t replace the need for sunscreen. Still, it’s a promising development!
Glycolic acid occurs naturally in sugar cane, but is most effective when synthesized in a lab, where its potency and concentration are optimized for use in skin care. Using plant sugars, like sugar maple, for their glycolic acid content is an option, but the bulk of the research on glycolic acid’s benefits for skin is about the synthetic form, because this type can be optimized for effectiveness, purity, stability, and pH, all critical to getting effective glycolic acid products.
Originally a wild-harvested Mediterranean plant, blue tansy — which is actually yellow in color — is now cultivated mainly in Morocco. When the flower’s popularity in beauty products surged, it was harvested almost out of existence in the wild. Today, supplies are steadily increasing, but it’s still one of the more expensive essential oils. A 2-ounce bottle may cost more than $100.
The blooms of Tanacetum annuum are yellow. Its slender leaves are covered with a fine white “fur.” The oil has a sweet, herbal fragrance due to its high camphor content.
WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF
SKINCARE HACKS: GLYCOLIC ACID IS THE NATURAL DEODORANT THAT WORKS!
ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE
With its 20% Glycolic Acid complex, I was terrified to use it at first; I’m now a convert. I’ve used it multiple times per week, even on consecutive nights and the Replenix Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream seems to do the job without overly irritating my skin. I do wake up with a bit more color to my complexion, but no discernible sensitivity or irritation.
Replenix says that the Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream is formulated with something they refer to as “Crystalline Glycolic Acid 20%”. While they don’t define what that means exactly, they do say that it’s formulated “with a carefully adjusted pH for maximum efficacy on even the most sensitive skin types.” I assume they mean that the formula’s pH is in the 3.0-4.0 pH range, and likely on the higher side of that where the potency is decreased to increase tolerability.
The Replenix Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream is more than a powerful exfoliating cream, though. It’s loaded with hydrating humectants and antioxidant vitamins and botanicals. Most notably, Chlorella Protothecoides (Algae) Extract will help to keep skin well-hydrated.
For antioxidant defense, there are plant stem cells from Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Callus Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract and Coenzyme Q10, also known as Ubiquinone or CoQ10.
I love when a face cream contains CoQ10, one of the most powerful antioxidants for the skin. According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, CoQ10 is one of the best ingredients used in skincare with multiple benefits for the skin.
“Also known as ubiquinone, it is a vitamin-like, fat-soluble substance naturally present in the body. A handful of studies have shown that coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) may help improve the appearance of signs of aging. There is also research showing that environmental factors deplete the presence of CoQ10 in the skin. The latest research suggests that topical application of CoQ10 has antioxidant and skin-soothing effects. As such, it is one of many helpful antioxidants for skin, but it is not the only one or the ‘best.’”
In addition, the Replenix Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream formula contains a “medical-grade combination for triple-antioxidant protection” in the form of Vitamins A, C and E; though these are not at significant enough levels to reap the full benefits the vitamins can offer at higher concentrations.
What I like about it: The Replenix Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream is an exceptional exfoliating face cream for all skin types. And, with a 20% concentration of Glycolic Acid, the most powerful alpha hydroxy acid, it does so quite effectively. Surprisingly, it’s no where near as sensitizing as I expected it to be — even without a significant amount of soothing actives.
What I don’t about it: I wish the formula included a non-fragrant plant oils to help replenish moisture in the skin, through I assume it doesn’t in order not to inhibit the penetration of the Glycolic Acid. Still, I miss that.
Who it’s for: All skin types, though because it doesn’t contain any replenishing plant oils or other moisturizing ingredients, it won’t be enough for dry or very dry skin. If that’s you, simply layer a heavier cream or facial oil over it.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Replenix Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream for $42 here.
PRODUCT REVIEW: REPLENIX VITAMIN C PRO COLLAGEN SERUM - BEST VITAMIN C SERUM FOR DRY SKIN
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The Ingredient List of the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream:
sii|h 0 0, Olus Oil (Vegetable Oil) emo, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract, Cetyl Lactate emo, Propanediol solv|h, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate emo, C12-16 Alcohols emo|vc, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate emo|emu, Palmitic Acid sii|emo|emu 0 2, Hydrogenated Lecithin 
emo|emu, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Tocopherol aox 0-3 0-3, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract aox|so|amic, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract so|emo, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Phytosterols, Squalene sii|aox|emo, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice so|h, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract aox|sb|so|emo, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil emo 0 3, Chondrus Crispus Extract h|vc, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer emo|vc, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Phenoxyethanol pres, Potassium Sorbate pres, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Citric Acid buff, Gluconolactone exf|chel, Sodium Benzoate pres, Xanthan Gum vcThe Ingredient List of the Peace Out Repairing Moisturizer:
sii|h 0 0, Propanediol solv|h, Coconut Alkanes emo|solv, Triheptanoin emo, Brassica Glycerides emo, Cetearyl Olivate emu, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate emo, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate emo, Sorbitan Olivate emu, Bakuchiol cci|aox|amic, Niacinamide cci|sb|aacne|h, Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Ceramide EOP sii, Ceramide NP sii, Ceramide AP sii, Ubiquinone aox, Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil emo, Passiflora Edulis (Passionfruit) Seed Oil emo, Moringa Oleifera (Moringa) Seed Oil emo, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Oil emo, Pavlova Lutheri Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract so, Cholesterol sii|emo 0 0, Lauroyl Lysine vc, Phytosphingosine sii|cci|aacne|amic, Saccharomyces Ferment , Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate emu, Caprylhydroxamic Acid chel, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate emo|amic, Citric Acid buff, Tocopheryl Acetate aox 0 0, Carbomer vc 0 1, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer vc, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Polysorbate 60 emu|surf, Sorbitan Isostearate emu 0 1-2, Phenoxyethanol presThe Ingredient List of the First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Firming Collagen Cream:
sii|h 0 0, Niacinamide cci|sb|aacne|h, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate emo|amic, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Glyceryl Stearate SE emu 2 3, Glyceryl Stearate emo|emu 0 1-2, Dimethicone emo 0 1, Cetearyl Alcohol emo|vc|emu|surf 1 2, Panthenol so|h 0 0, Colloidal Oatmeal so|aox|emo|abrasive/scrub, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Phenoxyethanol pres, Soluble Collagen h, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Propanediol solv|h, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Xanthan Gum vc, Disodium EDTA chel, Allantoin so 0 0, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract so|sb, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract aox|so, Ceramide NP sii, Sodium Benzoate pres, Diamond Powder abrasive/scrub, Tetrasodium EDTA chel, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter emo|vc, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate emoThe Ingredient List of the Replenix Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream:
Purified Water, Glycolic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ammonium Hydroxide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Dimethicone, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Green Tea Polyphenols, Chlorella Protothecoides (Algae) Extract, Curcuma Longa (Plant Stem Cells) Callus Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q-10), Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Phospholipids, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Glucoside, PEG-100 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Laureth-7, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA.
The Ingredient List of the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Boost 360° Eye Cream:
sii|h 0 0, C10-18 Triglycerides emo|solv, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate emo, Propanediol solv|h, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Cetearyl Olivate emu, Stearyl Alcohol emo|vc|emu|surf 2 2, Octyldodecanol emo|perf, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Sorbitan Olivate emu, Behenyl Alcohol emo|vc, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract h, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract aox|so|amic, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract so|emo, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Extract, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice so|h, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Gluconolactone exf|chel, Phytosterols, Chondrus Crispus Extract h|vc, Squalene sii|aox|emo, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil emo 0 3, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer emo|vc, Myristyl Myristate emo 2 0-5, Xanthan Gum vc, Citric Acid buff, Sodium Benzoate pres, Phenoxyethanol pres, Potassium Sorbate pres
