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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: GHOST DEMOCRACY COCOON REPLENISHING CERAMIDE RICH CREAM – BEST FACE CREAM FOR DRY SKIN, BEST MOISTURIZER WITH CERAMIDES

GHOST DEMOCRACY | COCOON REPLENISHING CERAMIDE RICH CREAM

As I do each fall, I’ve published my two-part series of what I consider to be among the best moisturizers for colder weather. That is, face creams ideal for dry, dehydrated skin no matter the skin type.

Be sure to catch my two-part series on richer moisturizers for dry skin and all skin types in the cold titled, Seasonal Skincare Transitioning: Moisturizers I Love that Make Me Excited for Cold Weather - Part One – Best Hydrating Moisturizers, Best Face Creams for Dry Skin.

You can catch part one of the series here and part two here.

During fall and winter, my skin always feels like it’s under an invisible, insidious attack from the forces of cold air. If I don’t take extra care by switching up my routine, like many people this time of year the consequences of dry, dehydrated skin can be pretty extreme.

Contrary to what skincare marketers will tell you, dehydration or lack of water in the skin, is one of the key causes of skin aging along with sun damage. Skincare brands just don’t talk about that enough. Even oily skin needs extra moisture during periods of low-humidity.


To promote optimal skin health, I think it’s super important to educate on the differences between dry skin and dehydrated skin at every chance I get…

What’s the Difference between Dry Skin and Dehydrated Skin?

Many people confuse the two. They’re not the same thing. Dry skin is a skin type. Dehydrated skin is a skin condition, just as being thirsty is a sign that your body is dehydrated. Dehydrated skin lacks water and any skin type, no matter its level of dryness or oiliness can be dehydrated.

In particular, dehydration is something that’s common to all of us in the cold as the low-humidity air around us draws water through the skin barrier and out of our skin. This process is referred to as trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL. (More on TEWL in my review of the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Boost 360° Eye Cream below.)

As the cold weather kicks in, I think it’s helpful to understand the difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin in order to protect your skin health in the weeks ahead. For insights, I turned to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team. There’s a superb piece on the Paula’s Choice site titled, What is Dehydrated Skin & How to Choose the Best Products.

Here is an excerpt:

Dehydrated skin often looks and feels like dry skin all over your face, but there's a major difference between the two: dehydrated skin is usually a temporary concern (with various surprising causes) and dry skin typically doesn't change over time. If you have dehydrated skin, your skin may also produce a normal or even excessive amount of oil on its surface.

"Dehydrated skin" is something we’re asked about frequently. It seems there’s a lot of confusion about what this skin concern is about. A major part of the confusion is that the term "dehydrated skin" is often used interchangeably with "dry skin" or "combination skin" but they are not the same! Dehydrated skin can occur in all skin types and is not exclusive to those with dry skin or combination skin.

The Difference Between Dry Skin and Dehydrated Skin

Having classically dry skin is easy to recognize. Dry skin frequently feels tight and dry, with no oil anywhere to be seen. This situation rarely fluctuates; skin feels dry all year long. The dryness might get worse depending on the climate, season, or activity, but regardless of those things, without great skin care products, the uncomfortable dry, tight feeling will persist.

As mentioned above, dehydrated skin can look and feel similar, but there’s a major difference: Dehydrated skin tends to come and go, it does not persist.


MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST AND MORE - BEST HYALURONIC ACID SERUMS

The Skincarma “Lock and Block” Prevents Dehydration

To start, preventing dehydration in the first place requires drinking enough water. That differs for each of us based on our weight, the foods we eat, and the climate we live in. It’s even more important during colder periods.

A good rule is to drink one ounce of water each day for every pound of body weight. So, if you weigh 150 lbs., you’ll need to drink 150 ounces of water each and every day to keep your body and your skin optimally hydrated.

Then, employing skincare to treat and prevent dehydration requires what I refer to as a “lock and block” strategy.

It begins with a dedicated humectant serum applied to the skin in both your AM and PM routines that helps to lock water in. Follow with a moisturizer composed of a healthy balance of both humectants and oils to block and prevent the trans-epidermal water loss that can lead to dehydration.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

MY FAVORITE HUMECTANT SERUMS FROM PAULA'S CHOICE, THE INKEY LIST, GHOST DEMOCRACY AND MORE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


The moisturizers I selected for my two blog articles on cold weather face creams all deliver a lock and block effect by locking hydration into the skin with humectants and blocking TEWL with effective levels of non-fragrant plant oils and/or lipids — essentially fats in the skin.

Among my selections of FW21 cold weather moisturizers is a face cream that I featured on the blog several times throughout 2020, the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream. It’s a really smart, well-formulated product and simply among the best face creams for dry skin.

In the last year, Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream, or TLPC for short, has catapulted to the top of Sephora’s nearly endless collection of moisturizers. As I write this, it’s the number one face cream in the moisturizer category on the Sephora website.

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE - BEST FACE CREAM FOR DRY SKIN

Peace Out’s Repairing Moisturizer is formulated specifically for oily and blemish prone skin year-round, but I found it worked great on my own skin throughout much of the year and I’ve been eager to share it.

My favorite skincare brand for sensitive skin, First Aid Beauty introduced its rich, luxurious, thick-whipped Ultra Repair Firming Collagen Cream several months ago. If you have dry, sensitive skin, this one is for you.

One of my favorite brand experiences of 2021, Replenix offers clinical skincare formulated with what the brand describes as “medical grade ingredients”. And the brand’s Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream is exceptional. With a 20% Glycolic Acid complex, I was terrified to use it at first; I’m now a convert.

PRODUCT REVIEW: REPLENIX GLYCOLIC ACID 20% RESURFACING CREAM – BEST EXFOLIATING FACE CREAM

In part one, I also included one of my favorite eye creams, the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Boost 360° Eye Cream. It’s one which I think every skin type can and will benefit from.

Again, you can catch part one of the series here and part two here.

Let’s have a closer look at another of the FW21 face creams that I consider ideal for cold weather — the Ghost Democracy Cocoon Replenishing Ceramide Rich Cream


BEST FOR DRY SKIN:

Ghost Democracy | Cocoon Replenishing Ceramide Rich Cream

When it comes to democratically priced skincare brands, you’ve probably got products from The Ordinary, The Inkey List and even Good Molecules somewhere in your daily skincare routine. But you may not have tried Ghost Democracy yet!

I’ve been having a ton of fun with Ghost Democracy over the past two years. I first reviewed the brand in a blog article about facial oils, Dry Skin and Three of The Best Facial Oils I Think You’d Love, Too!

BRANDS I LOVE: GHOST DEMOCRACY INTRIGUINGLY CLEAN SKINCARE WITH A TWIST

As the name implies, Ghost Democracy is a democratic skincare brand. Unlike most accessible skincare products, though, Ghost Democracy’s formulas are all clean — and the mid-range pricing is a reflection of that.

Ghost Democracy formulas are held to “a higher standard of clean” — that is, less chemicals, more actives, and accessibility for all. I think of Ghost Democracy as democratically priced, clean skin care.

Among my favorites from the brand are the Invisible Lightweight Daily Sunscreen and Lightbulb Vitamin C Serum — one of the best Vitamin C serums I’ve come across. It’s just $34 and what I consider a benchmark for Vitamin C products. Psst…I’ve reviewed both on the blog and invite you to check them out.

PRODUCT REVIEW: GHOST DEMOCRACY LIGHTBULB VITAMIN C SERUM – BEST BRIGHTENING SERUM FOR FACE

With its luxuriously rich texture characteristic of a prestige face cream, Ghost Democracy’s Cocoon Replenishing Ceramide Rich Cream is the perfect moisturizer for most skin types in colder weather. It’s a clean, pro-skin health formula — and it’s just $32.

But what I appreciate most about the Cocoon cream is that it’s formulated to do one important  thing to advance skin health: replenish the skin barrier. A healthy skin barrier is the key to healthy skin. And cold, dry air is the nemesis of a healthy barrier by depleting skin of essential lipids.


FOR A LIMITED TIME

ENJOY 15% OFF GHOST DEMOCRACY SKINCARE

CLICK HERE AND ENTER CODE CARMINE15 AT CHECKOUT



What Are Skin Lipids and Are Lipids Good for Skin?

There’s an insightful article on the Dermstore website titled, The Role of Lipids—Cholesterol, Ceramides and Fatty Acids—in the Aging Process which you can read here.

Lipids in Your Skin

In a nutshell, lipids are skin’s natural fats. They are essential components of skin and play a crucial role in maintaining the strength of the skin’s protective barrier, which holds moisture, protects the skin from damage and keeps dirt and impurities out. They also aid the skin’s natural repair process. While there are many types of lipids, these three are the most prevalent—and important—for the skin.

  • Cholesterol: This lipid helps accelerate the skin barrier’s recovery and improve the appearance of skin elasticity. Visible skin aging is often caused by cholesterol deficiency on the skin. It’s important to note that cholesterol on your skin is different from the cholesterol found in the blood, and having more of it on your skin won’t cause your blood pressure to spike.

  • Ceramides: This type of lipid is proven to increase the skin’s hydration and barrier function. Ceramide deficiency is the main cause of dry skin.

  • Fatty acids: Abundant in young, healthy skin, fatty acids help maintain the skin’s lipid balance.


The Role of Topical Lipids

Healthy, youthful skin has an abundance of these naturally occurring lipids. As we age, lipid production declines, and this can result in rough surface texture, uncomfortable tightness, dullness and loss of facial fullness. A compromised skin barrier is also more prone to irritation and water loss. This is why it’s important to counter the effects of lipid loss with a topical treatment—but not just any topical treatment.


The Cocoon Replenishing Ceramide Rich Cream is infused with two key complexes: 2.2% Ceramide Blend and 17.0% Lipid Blend. Both of these help to replenish lost lipids, or fats, in the skin barrier. By replenishing lost lipids, the skin barrier can do one of the things it does best — keep moisture and hydration in the skin. 

And that’s the key to maintain healthy, well-balanced skin in harsh, cold air!

I’ve really enjoyed using Ghost Democracy’s Cocoon Replenishing Ceramide Rich Cream as the nights have cooled down the last several weeks. I’m looking forward to cocooning my skin with this rich, velvety cream in the weeks ahead…


What I like about it: The Ghost Democracy Cocoon Replenishing Ceramide Rich Cream is hands-down one of the best face creams for replenishing lipids in the skin barrier and thus for promoting skin health in cold, dry weather. At just $32, it’s a steal for skin.

What I don’t like about it: I hate products in jars. Just be sure to use it up and please use a spatula; never put your fingers into a product.

Who it’s for: Dry skin types year round and all skin types in the cold except for oily and blemish prone skins.

SHOP THE BLOG: For a limited time, enjoy 15% off all Ghost Democracy skincare. Purchase the Ghost Democracy Cocoon Replenishing Ceramide Rich Cream for $27.20 (reg. $32) here.


FOR A LIMITED TIME

ENJOY 15% OFF GHOST DEMOCRACY SKINCARE

CLICK HERE AND ENTER CODE CARMINE15 AT CHECKOUT



WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

OF GHOST DEMOCRACY INTRIGUINGLY CLEAN SKINCARE WITH A TWIST

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

SUMMER 2020 MOISTURIZERS PART I

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


SKINCARMA X HERBAL FACE FOOD EXCLUSIVE!

FOR A LIMITED TIME, SAVE 20% OFF HERBAL FACE FOOD!

Enter code SKINCARMA20 at checkout.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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The Ingredient List of the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream:


The Ingredient List of the Peace Out Repairing Moisturizer:


The Ingredient List of the First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Firming Collagen Cream:

Aqua/Water/Eau solv, Stearic Acid emo|vc 0 2-3, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Niacinamide cci|sb|aacne|h, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate emo|amic, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emo, Glyceryl Stearate SE emu 2 3, Glyceryl Stearate emo|emu 0 1-2, Dimethicone emo 0 1, Cetearyl Alcohol emo|vc|emu|surf 1 2, Panthenol so|h 0 0, Colloidal Oatmeal so|aox|emo|abrasive/scrub, Squalane sii|emo 0 1, Phenoxyethanol pres, Soluble Collagen h, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Propanediol solv|h, Sodium Hydroxide buff, Xanthan Gum vc, Disodium EDTA chel, Allantoin so 0 0, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract so|sb, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract aox|so, Ceramide NP sii, Sodium Benzoate pres, Diamond Powder abrasive/scrub, Tetrasodium EDTA chel, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter emo|vc, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate emo
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of the Replenix Glycolic Acid 20% Resurfacing Cream:

Purified Water, Glycolic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ammonium Hydroxide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Dimethicone, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Green Tea Polyphenols, Chlorella Protothecoides (Algae) Extract, Curcuma Longa (Plant Stem Cells) Callus Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q-10), Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Phospholipids, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Glucoside, PEG-100 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Laureth-7, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA.


The Ingredient List of the Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Boost 360° Eye Cream:



SEASONAL SKINCARE TRANSITIONING: THE BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY AND NIOD THAT GET ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER!

SEASONAL SKINCARE TRANSITIONING: THE BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY AND NIOD THAT GET ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER!

PRODUCT REVIEW: REPLENIX GLYCOLIC ACID 20% RESURFACING CREAM – BEST EXFOLIATING FACE CREAM, BEST MOISTURIZER WITH GLYCOLIC ACID

PRODUCT REVIEW: REPLENIX GLYCOLIC ACID 20% RESURFACING CREAM – BEST EXFOLIATING FACE CREAM, BEST MOISTURIZER WITH GLYCOLIC ACID