PRODUCT REVIEW: GLOW RECIPE STRAWBERRY SMOOTH BHA + AHA SALICYLIC ACID SERUM - WHAT IS SALICYLIC ACID? WHAT DOES SALICYLIC ACID DO TO YOUR SKIN?
GLOW RECIPE | STRAWBERRY SMOOTH BHA + AHA SALICYLIC ACID SERUM
Photo credit: ©2022 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios
I’m always cautious about over-exfoliating my skin. But I’m also hyper-focused on clearing out my pores. In fact, “pore maintenance” is an essential part of my daily skincare routines — both AM and PM.
Clogged pores are the root of all skincare evils: blemishes, blackheads, irritation, and dullness. My solution for keeping my pores fresh and clear? Salicylic Acid!
I recently published a blog article featuring The Ordinary’s iconic Salicylic Acid serum titled, The Best Salicylic Acid Treatments from The Ordinary - What Is Salicylic Acid? What Does Salicylic Acid Do to Your Skin? (You can catch the piece here.)
The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is among the best pore serums and one of the best selling products in skincare worldwide. I really appreciate the simplicity, efficacy and accessibility of the Salicylic Acid 2% Solution and it’s been a part of my skincare routine for years now. I’ve recommended the $5.90 serum as an acne-clearing treatment to dozens of friends, family and followers and have often urged incorporating it into a regular daily routine – not just during an acne blemish crisis.
The water-based Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a relatively simple formula comprised of just 12 ingredients: Aqua (Water), Saccharide Isomerate, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Salicylic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.
But the star active, essential to any serious pore maintenance routine, is Salicylic Acid. Yet while The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% Solution is a personal fave, my go-to BHA powered treatment has long been the Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant. I use it 2x daily right after cleansing and toning.
PRODUCT REVIEW: THE ORDINARY SALICYLIC ACID 2% SOLUTION
What Is Salicylic Acid and Is Salicylic Acid Good for Acne?
Salicylic Acid, a beta-hydroxy acid, or BHA, is perpetually the active of choice for controlling acne- and oily-prone skin. And while it’s one of the most effective anti-acne ingredients, it’s so effective at optimizing skin health that it should be a staple in every pro-skin health routine, not just an acne routine.
What does Salicylic Acid do for the rest of us – those who don’t struggle with acne every day? Well, the best BHA happens to be superb at unclogging pores. We all have pores. And all our pores get clogged. For me, Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide form a one-two punch in my daily skincare regimen that keeps my pores clear and my skin fresh. It’s one of the few acids that can effectively dissolve hardened sebum inside pores to release oil, dirt, and bacteria — all of which can result in a blemish. But more than that, by clearing and refreshing pores, skin functions better and is able to respond to both internal and external aggressors more effectively. That translates into healthier skin. Skincare marketers aren’t often interested in that part of the equation.
According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, Salicylic Acid is among the best ingredients for promoting skin health and specifically the treatment of acne blemishes:
Salicylic acid (also called beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a desmolytic ingredient, which means it is able to exfoliate by dissolving the bonds that hold the dead cells to skin’s surface. Because salicylic acid is oil soluble, it also has the ability to penetrate into the pore lining and exfoliate inside the pore. This makes it especially effective for reducing breakouts, including blackheads and whiteheads.
Salicylic acid is recognized as an over-the-counter topical acne product by the U.S. FDA, when used in concentrations of 0.5-2%. Even though salicylic acid is best known for its ability to address acne-prone skin concerns, it offers many additional properties that any skin type can benefit from. Case in point, by exfoliating the buildup of dead skin on the surface, it also helps reverse the appearance of dull, uneven skin tone, as well as other visible signs of aging skin.
Unlike physical exfoliants (such as a rough facial scrub), salicylic acid offers hydrating properties that enhance the result of smooth, soft skin. Another unique advantage is salicylic acid’s ability to gently soothe aggravated skin thanks to its inherent calming properties.
Salicylic acid works most effectively as a leave-on treatment, ideally within a pH range between 3 and 4. Rinse-off salicylic acid cleansers typically have a higher pH, which likely won’t offer much of an exfoliation benefit, not to mention the contact time with skin is very brief - but the salicylic acid may at least offer skin-calming benefits in this form and can be included in amounts as low as 0.5% to achieve this benefit.
Research shows using salicylic acid starting at a 1-2% concentration is recommended for regular exfoliation within a skin care routine. For more stubborn concerns, higher concentrations can make a dramatic difference. In dermatologic practices, salicylic acid has been safely used in as high as 50% concentrations for removal of warts, corns, pigmented lesions, and other advanced concerns.
Salicylic acid has been found to be safe on all skin tones and ethnicities.
PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA LIQUID EXFOLIANT – BEST TREATMENT FOR OILY SKIN
But as much as I rely on that velvety “perfecting liquid” to keep my pores clear, I recently discovered a mildly exfoliating, pore-clearing treatment that’s such a pleasure to use it’s almost ridiculous: the new Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA + AHA Salicylic Acid Serum.
I’ve been using Strawberry Smooth off and on for the last several weeks and as I’m about to use it up, I’m feeling some serious #fomo. The light, silky serum is powered by two pore-flushing actives: Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide. Combined, they’re the perfect pore maintenance pair.
Strawberry Smooth also contains a blend of gentle acids, including Mandelic Acid, the mildest and most tolerable of the range of alpha hydroxy acids, or AHA’s. I like to think of Mandelic Acid as the opposite of Glycolic Acid, which is the strongest and least tolerable.
And Mandelic Acid seems to be getting a lot of attention lately. Perhaps it’s because brands are coming to understand that the wave of harsh Glycolic Acid treatments are sensitizing people’s skin and there’s now a market for gentler exfoliating treatments. Bravo to Glow Recipe for creative a milder exfoliating treatment that’s easier on the skin.
One of my favorite new exfoliating treatments with Mandelic Acid is the Cocokind Turmeric Illuminating Solution. It’s a superb daily exfoliating treatment with a cocktail of Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid and Gluconolactone, the most common polyhydroxy acid (PHA).
PRODUCT REVIEW: COCOKIND TURMERIC ILLUMINATING SOLUTION – BEST EXFOLIATING TONER
What Is Mandelic Acid and What Does Mandelic Acid Do for the Skin?
There’s a very succinct, well-sourced explanation of Mandelic Acid and its exceptional benefits for the skin, and particularly sensitive skin, from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team. Here’s what they have to say…
Mandelic Acid at a Glance
Also known as amygdalic acid
An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that can exfoliate skin
Generally more tolerable for those with sensitive skin
Must be in opaque packaging to maintain its effectiveness
Mandelic Acid Description
Mandelic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). There’s some research showing mandelic acid is an effective exfoliant, although it’s not as effective as glycolic acid due to its larger size (it’s twice as big as glycolic acid) and slower penetration into skin; however, these traits can also make mandelic acid more tolerable for those with sensitive skin. Unlike glycolic acid, mandelic acid is light-sensitive and must be packaged in an opaque container to remain effective. It may be synthetic or derived from almonds. Like other AHAs, mandelic acid is most effective in leave-on products that are within a 3-4 pH range.
A couple studies have shown that mandelic acid and salicylic acid worked well together in a higher-strength peel for use on darker skin tones struggling with discolorations, including post-acne marks. However, what we don’t know is how well mandelic acid would’ve worked on its own—it’s possible the results were more from salicylic acid than the combination of the two acids. Other research has shown mandelic acid can increase sebum (oil) production, which isn’t great for oily skin but would be a benefit for dry skin.
In addition to Mandelic Acid, the Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA + AHA Salicylic Acid Serum contains three other mild exfoliating actives, Succinic Acid, Azelaic Acid and even Strawberry Fruit Extract — which gives it a wonderfully subtle strawberry scent.
If you’re like me, concerned about irritation, Strawberry Smooth also contains an effective skin-soothing cocktail in the form of Allantoin and Bisabolol. Any time I see Bisabolol in an INCI, I get tickled.
What is Bisabolol and what does Bisabolol do for the skin? According to the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team, “Bisabolol is a well-known skin soothing agent. It comes in two different structural forms: alpha-bisabolol, derived from chamomile and other plants (although it can also be lab-created) vs. beta-bisabolol which is found in cotton and corn. The alpha form is the one used in skin care products. It often plays a bio-active skin-calming role thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties and shows up in many products designed for sensitive skin.”
There’s also a touch of Sodium Hyaluronate, the salt form of humectant Hyaluronic Acid, to help keep skin hydrated. A few drops of Strawberry Smooth morning and night and skin is smooth, bright, clear and more than a bit healthier. I can’t get enough of this stuff! I can honestly say it’s good to the last drop. Jeez, the #fomo is real!
What I like about it: The Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA + AHA Salicylic Acid Serum is one of the most gentle exfoliating and pore-clearing treatments that I’ve come across. I love its blend of mild acids and pore-clearing actives. It’s the ideal daily pore maintenance treatment.
What I don’t like about it: I love everything about it.
Who it’s for: All skin types, even sensitive, oily, and/or acne prone skins.
SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase the Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA + AHA Salicylic Acid Serum for $40 here.
The Ingredient List of the Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA + AHA Salicylic Acid Serum:
exf|aacne|so|pres, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Mandelic Acid 
exf|amic, Succinic Acid buff, Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Leaf Extract, Azelaic Acid aacne|so|buff, Allantoin so 0 0, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Bisabolol so, Opuntia Ficus-Indica (Prickly Pear) Flower Extract, Niacinamide cci|sb|aacne|h, Glucosamine, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract aox|so, Saccharomyces Ferment , Dextrin vc|h, Polydextrose h, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate emo, Hydroxyacetophenone aox, Amylopectin vc, Butylene Glycol h|solv 0 1, Succinoglycan, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate amic|pres, Lauroyl Lysine vc, Sodium Phytate chel, Lecithin emo|emu, Aminomethyl Propanol buff, Xanthan Gum vc, Citric Acid buff, Fragrance/Parfum 
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