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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: SKIN PROUD SERIOUS SHADE SUNSCREEN SPF 50 - Does SPF 50 last longer than SPF 30? Does SPF over 50 make a difference? Why does my sunscreen pill under makeup?

PRODUCT REVIEW: SKIN PROUD SERIOUS SHADE SUNSCREEN SPF 50 - Does SPF 50 last longer than SPF 30? Does SPF over 50 make a difference? Why does my sunscreen pill under makeup?

SKIN PROUD SERIOUS SHADE SUNSCREEN SPF 50

Nothing makes me happier than a light, soothing sunscreen fluid in summer. I’m really big on seasonal skincare and always switch things up between seasons.

During the cold, low-humidity months of winter, I love velvety facial oils and creams that have an occlusive effect that prevents trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL.

But when things heat up here in Brooklyn, I need lighter products on my skin. Ask any New Yorker and they’ll tell you there’s nothing worse than the subway platform on a hot August day. It seems the only thing running as expected is the sweat down your face! (The trains never run on time!)

The last thing I want is anything heavy on my skin in that heat – sunscreen included.

At the outset of summer, I love exploring new, lightweight facial sunscreens. And it’s not because I take sunscreen more seriously in the summer. I wear sunscreen religiously every day of the year – even on cloudy, seemingly sunless days in January.

Honestly, it has everything to do with texture.

And one of my favorite new facial sunscreen discoveries is the Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50. (I review it in detail just below.) Its super lightweight, milky fluid texture is reminiscent of popular J-beauty sunscreens like two classics: the Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF 50+ and Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk – which I’ve reviewed on the blog here.

THE BEST SUNSCREENS FOR FACE

That Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk set the bar high for facial sunscreens for oily skin – and all skins on a hot, humid summer day. And it’s inspired many other personal SPF faves for summer over the years.

One recent find, and another current daily go-to, is the new CeraVe Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen SPF 30 for Face and Body. It’s so good that I’d go so far as to say it’s one of the best sunscreens for sensitive skin, oily skin and, well, hot skin. CeraVe is known for their facial skincare for sensitive skin and this one really nails it.

I ride 10-15 miles across Brooklyn on a bike every morning and I find myself reaching for the CeraVe Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen more than any other. Its light, milky texture is not only perfect for a hot day, but feels great on your skin when you’re working out and need a facial sunscreen while doing it.

It’s a hybrid sunscreen, meaning it relies on both chemical and mineral filters. As I said in my review of it on the blog here, the new CeraVe sunscreen milk is both well-formulated and a ridiculous pleasure to use. Free of alcohol and fragrance, it feels weightless on my skin.

PRODUCT REVIEW: CERAVE HYDRATING SHEER SUNSCREEN SPF 30 FOR FACE AND BODY

Another recent find that’s ideal for summer skin is The INKEY List’s Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30. At just $14.99, it’s one of the most affordable facial sunscreens that doesn’t feel cheap and ineffective.

Honestly, I would never pay $15 for a sunscreen and have the confidence that it’s going to sufficiently protect my skin from photoaging. Until The INKEY List came out with this gem!

TBH, the new Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 is really well-formulated and as much of a pleasure to use as the CeraVe Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen SPF 30 – which costs about $20. Infused with hydrating Polyglutamic Acid and nourishing Saccharomyces Ferment, it’s a brightener, hydrator and facial sunscreen in one.

As I said in my review of it here, I love its ridiculously dewy finish that lasts all day. It’s weird how much your skin glows and stays glowing. And, unlike so many other facial sunscreens, it’s free of fragrance, drying alcohol, and is super comfortable on your skin. Catch my The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30 review here.

In addition to questions like is the sun more damaging in the summer?, one of the things that comes up often when discussing facial sunscreens is the debate over whether an SPF 30 is enough and what’s the difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50?

PRODUCT REVIEW: THE INKEY LIST POLYGLUTAMIC ACID DEWY SUNSCREEN SPF 30

The answer to the first question about the sun’s intensity in the summer is that the sun’s UV rays do cause more damage in the summer. But that doesn’t mean unprotected sun exposure when the sun is weaker doesn’t cause damage. In fact, UV radiation at all times of the year can lead to DNA changes in skin cells, cause premature skin aging, and an increased risk of skin cancer. And, of course, much of the photodamge is visible on the surface in the form of lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation like dark spots, sun spots and age spots.

Once you’ve got visible sun damage, it’s challenging to clear things like dark spots topically. That’s another reason why prevention with a daily sunscreen for face is essential!

As for an SPF 30 vs. SPF 50, the reality is, while the two numbers seem far apart, the difference in the percentage of UV rays that are blocked by each is negligible. There’s a really insightful article on the Skin Cancer Foundation website titled, Ask the Expert: Does a High SPF Protect My Skin Better?

According to the piece, “an SPF 30 allows about 3 percent of UVB rays to hit your skin. An SPF of 50 allows about 2 percent of those rays through.” What that means is SPF 30 blocks 97% of damaging UV rays while SPF 50 blocks 98% of them. The article continues, “Under ideal conditions (like in a laboratory), a sunscreen with higher SPF protection and broad-spectrum coverage offers more protection against sunburn, UVA damage and DNA damage than comparable products with lower SPF values.”


CALL ME SPF OBSESSED. I DON’T CARE!


Before I get into my full review of the Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 just below, I wanted to answer some of the most frequently asked questions about facial sunscreens, SPF numbers and their level of protection against photoaging, DNA damage and skin cancer.


1. Does SPF 50 last longer than SPF 30?

The answer to that isn’t clear-cut. According to an article from The Skin Cancer Foundation, SPF 50 may not last significantly longer than SPF 30, but it offers slightly more protection against UVB radiation. The difference in protection is around 1%. The total protection time also depends on the amount applied and the user’s skin type and activity level – that is, are they sweating, swimming, or otherwise compromising the sunscreen.

However, it is important to note that regardless of the SPF level, sunscreen needs to be reapplied every two hours or after sweating, swimming, or toweling off to maintain its effectiveness and optimal level of protection.

Explore my top picks of the best facial sunscreens on the blog here.

Sources: FDA - “Sunscreen: How to Help Protect Your Skin from the Sun”; The Skin Cancer Foundation - “All About Sunscreen” ; Healthline - “How Long Does Sunscreen Last? How SPF Works”

2. Does SPF over 50 make a difference?

There are differing opinions on whether SPF over 50 makes a significant difference or not. However, most sources agree that SPF 50 is considered a high enough level of protection against photoaging, skin cancer and other damage. Higher SPF values offer only minimal additional protection.

Sunscreens with higher SPF values do block slightly more UVB rays, but they do not offer 100% protection against harmful UVA rays that can lead to skin damage, premature skin aging, and an increased risk of skin cancer.

According to both The Skin Cancer Foundation and MD Anderson Cancer Center, SPF 50 blocks about 98% of UVB rays, and an SPF of 100 stops 99% of UVB rays from reaching your skin. However, after that, the difference in protection becomes small and may not be significant.

The American Academy of Dermatology also states that SPF 30 blocks nearly 97% of UVB rays, and SPF 50 blocks up to 98%, which is a considerable difference but one that may not be significant.

Therefore, using a sunscreen with an SPF of 50 or higher is recommended to ensure adequate sun protection, but beyond that, there is little evidence to support that higher SPF values offer significant additional benefits. It is essential to reapply sunscreen every two hours or more frequently if sweating or swimming, regardless of the SPF value of the sunscreen being used.

Sources: [1] FDA - “Sunscreen: How to Help Protect Your Skin from the Sun”; The Skin Cancer Foundation - “Ask the Expert: Does a High SPF Protect My Skin Better?”; American Academy of Dermatology - “Sunscreen FAQs”

3. What's the difference between SPF 30 and 50?

According to The Skin Cancer Foundation and the American Academy of Dermatology, the difference between SPF 30 and 50 is minimal. SPF 30 blocks nearly 97% of UVB rays, while SPF 50 blocks up to 98%, which seems like a considerable difference but is not significant in terms of better protection.

It is important to remember that no sunscreen offers 100% protection from UV radiation, and higher SPF values do not necessarily provide significantly better protection. The most important factor is to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 and to reapply it every two hours or more frequently if sweating or swimming.

Sources: The Skin Cancer Foundation - “Ask the Expert: Does a High SPF Protect My Skin Better?”; FDA - Sunscreen: How to Help Protect Your Skin from the Sun; American Academy of Dermatology - “Sunscreen FAQs”

4. Why does my sunscreen pill under makeup?

According to an article by Well+Good titled, “Feel Like Your SPF Only Pills Sometimes? That’s Because It’s Interacting With *These* Ingredients in Your Other Products”, the reason why sunscreen might pill under makeup is due to how it interacts with other ingredients in your products.

The article states that certain ingredients, such as oils or silicones commonly found in moisturizers and makeup products, can cause the sunscreen to ball up and form pill-like residue. This is because these ingredients create a barrier that the sunscreen cannot properly adhere to.

How do you prevent your sunscreen from pilling? The article suggests using a water-based or oil-free moisturizer and waiting a few minutes after applying it before applying sunscreen. This may help avoid pilling and ensure that the sunscreen penetrates your skin more effectively.

Source: Well+Good - “Feel Like Your SPF Only Pills Sometimes? That’s Because It’s Interacting With *These* Ingredients in Your Other Products”


5. Product Review

Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 Review

I’ve enjoyed Skin Proud’s range of affordable, reasonably well-formulated skincare products for over a year now. For the most part, the brand’s products are solid, though somewhat basic. The formulas aren’t aggressive. It’s more of a range of simple, inexpensive daily skincare for everyone.

I reviewed the Skin Proud Recharge Overnight 0.5% Retinol Serum on the blog late last summer. As I said in my article here, the brand’s $15 Overnight 0.5% Retinol Serum is not a perfect Retinol serum. Formulated with Retinyl Palmitate, the least effective of the range of retinoids, it’s not a Retinol serum for wrinkles or for those looking to get the most out of Retinol. However, if you’re looking for a super gentle Retinol face serum for oily skin or have a sensitivity to Retinol, it may be right for you.

And as unimpressed as I was with the Skin Proud Recharge Overnight 0.5% Retinol Serum, I’ve had the opposite experience with the brand’s new Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50. I’m obsessed with the milky texture, superb blendability – and at just about $14, its ridiculously low price.

IMO it’s really the whole package and a step up for the brand. In fact, Skin Proud’s Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 has become one of my favorite facial sunscreens of 2023!

As I indicated at the outset of the article, it’s one of those crazy lightweight milky sunscreen fluids inspired by J-beauty classics like the Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF 50+ and Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk. If you’re a fan of those – or other milky sunscreens like the La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra Light Fluid Face Sunscreen SPF 60 – then you’re likely to love the Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 as much as I do.

Unlike those three classic facial sunscreen fluids, Serious Shade contains a better infusion of antioxidants – though it’s by no means an antioxidant powerhouse. One of the secrets to the youthful quality of my skin is my reliance on both daily sunscreen and multiple antioxidant serums.

Two favorites include the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster and the Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum. (Catch my top picks of the best Niacinamide serums here and the best Vitamin C serums here.)

So while I wish the levels of antioxidants were higher, it’s nice to see antioxidants like Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) and Spirulina Platensis Powder (derived from algae) in an affordable sunscreen like Skin Proud’s Serious Shade.

THE FIRST 100% MINERAL SPF TRANSPARENT ON ALL SKINS!



I know you’re likely wondering, is Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 mineral or chemical? At an SPF 50, it’s formulated with 100% chemical UV filters: 3% Avobenzone, 15% Homosalate, 5% Octisalate and 10% Octocrylene. So if you’re not a fan of chemical sunscreens or have very sensitive skin, this one isn’t for you.

And of course, as a chemical sunscreen, Serious Shade leaves no white cast. It always cracks me up when a brand calls out the fact that their chemical sunscreen leaves no white cast –something that Skin Proud is also guilty of. Why would it leave a white cast if it isn’t formulated with a mineral sunscreen filter like Zinc Oxide – the only reason for a white cast? WTF!

The formula does contain about 2-3% Glycerin, a superb humectant. And though the brand claims it’s “an intensely hydrating formula,” I wouldn’t go that far. For summer, it’s fine. However, in colder, low-humidity months when the air around you pulls the water out of your face, it couldn’t possibly be hydrating enough. And any hydration would hardly be intense!

The same can be said for the fact that the Serious Shade Sunscreen contains nary a plant oil – despite the fact that the brand doesn’t claim it to be “oil free.” However, it does contain a tiny amount of ceramide. And while ceramides are considered to be lipid (fat) molecules, they are not themselves classified as oils.

As I shared in a recent blog article, the question about whether a skincare product can be described as “oil-free” is tied to a lawsuit against Clinique a few years ago for describing a product as oil-free when the formula contained an ingredient derived from oil.

Because of that, brands are afraid to be taken literally. Which leaves it up to the consumer to determine if a product is oil-free (or oil-free enough!) for their skin. Well, I’m here to tell you that Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 is one of the best sunscreens for oily skin.

That said, I wouldn’t recommend it for sensitive skin as it does contain some fragrance.

One of the more interesting claims that Skin Proud makes about the Serious Shade sunscreen is that it won’t pill on skin, making it “the perfect first step to prep your skin for flawless makeup application or wear on its own.”

According to an article in Well+Good, the reason why a sunscreen might pill under makeup is due to how it interacts with other ingredients in the products in your routine. The best way to avoid this is to use a water-based or oil-free moisturizer and wait for it to fully absorb before applying sunscreen.

Or you could try Skin Proud’s Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 for yourself! At $14, you don’t have much to lose…


6. Pros & Cons

What I like about it: The Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 is honestly one of the best facial sunscreens for oily skin. I’m obsessed with its ultra lightweight milky texture that feels weightless on skin. It literally feels like there’s nothing on your face – which is not something you can say about most sunscreens. At just $14, it’s one of the most affordable, well-formulated daily sunscreens.

What I don’t like about it: I wish it had higher amounts of both hydrating humectants and protective antioxidants. And I could do without the fragrance, even if it’s a small amount.

Who it’s for: All skin types, especially oily skin. May not be great for very sensitive skins.

SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 for $13.74 here.


The Ingredient List of the Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50:



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