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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM UV REFLECT ANTIOXIDANT SPF 50 SUNSCREEN - Is SPF 30 or 50 better for daily use? Is SPF 50 really necessary? Does SPF 50 mean reapply every 50 minutes?

PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM UV REFLECT ANTIOXIDANT SPF 50 SUNSCREEN - Is SPF 30 or 50 better for daily use? Is SPF 50 really necessary? Does SPF 50 mean reapply every 50 minutes?

NATURIUM UV REFLECT ANTIOXIDANT SPF 50 SUNSCREEN

Over the last several weeks I’ve tried maybe two dozen new facial sunscreens. And it has nothing to do with the fact that it’s summer here in Brooklyn, NY.

I hate to make it seem like it’s more important for me to wear sunscreen in the summer, when the sun is at its peak. I know that’s a common practice. But I’m a sunscreen fanatic. I wear sunscreen even on cloudy, seemingly sunless days!

As I write this, I’m sitting outside at my favorite café and it’s pouring like mad out. The storm clouds have literally blocked the sunlight so much that it feels like dusk. And even though thunderstorms were in the forecast for today – the Fourth of July – I applied an SPF 50 sunscreen as the last step in my skincare routine this morning.

The reason I’ve had the opportunity to test out so many new facial sunscreens is because brands launch more of them in the late spring and early summer. What that does is condition consumers into believing that wearing sunscreen is more important in the summer months. Big beauty marketers do a lot to abuse the skincare psyche of their customers! Seriously, when was the last time a brand marketed a sunscreen as “anti-aging”? A facial sunscreen is the most effective, most important and best anti-aging cream available. *sigh*

Several of the new sunscreens introduced in the last few weeks are really more about lighter textures than ramped up sunscreen use in summer. Lighter J-beauty sunscreen milks like the Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF 50+ and Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk set the bar high. These products essentially invented the category for ultra fluid sunscreens that feel weightless on your skin.

And with its light, silky serum texture, the new Naturium UV Reflect Antioxidant SPF 50 is one of those.

THE BEST SUNSCREENS FOR FACE

Among my latest sunscreen discoveries is the new CeraVe Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen – one of the best sunscreens for sensitive skin. Of course, CeraVe is the OG when it comes to products for sensitive skin, so it makes sense that their sunscreens would be ideal for people who experience sensitivity to a lot of skincare. A lot of facial sunscreens can be irritating, but the solution isn’t to avoid them – it’s to find one that works for you.

As I said in my review of it several weeks ago, I love its light, milky texture. It’s a hybrid sunscreen, meaning it relies on both chemical and mineral filters (and a ridiculous pleasure to use!). In fact, CeraVe’s Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen is my favorite facial sunscreen for my morning bike rides across Brooklyn. Not only is it perfect for sensitive skin and humid summer days, it’s also ideal for working out and outdoor activities.

And, of course, the CeraVe Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen is free of alcohol and fragrance. Honestly, if you have sensitive skin, you need this $20 facial sunscreen.

Catch my CeraVe Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen SPF 30 for Face and Body review on the blog here.

PRODUCT REVIEW: CERAVE HYDRATING SHEER SUNSCREEN SPF 30 FOR FACE AND BODY

Another recent find that’s ideal for summer is the new Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 – which I reviewed on the blog just last week. This one is truly a distant cousin of J-beauty sunscreen milks like the Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk.

In fact, if I were presented each without seeing the packaging, I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference! I wouldn’t be surprised to find out that the marketers at Skin Proud used the iconic Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk as a benchmark with their labs. “Here, make us this.”

At $14, the Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 is even priced the same as the Skin Aqua fluid sunscreen.

As I said in my Skin Proud Serious Shade Sunscreen SPF 50 review of it here, it’s one of the best sunscreens for oily skin. I’m obsessed with its ultra lightweight milky texture that feels like there’s nothing on your face. One of the most common factors people give for not wearing sunscreen is how they feel on their skin. Skin Proud’s Serious Shade feels like it’s not even there moments after you apply it.


SERIOUSLY, ONE OF MY FAVE NEW SUNSCREENS!


Before I get into my detailed review of the Naturium UV Reflect Antioxidant SPF 50 just below, I wanted to answer some of the most frequently asked questions about facial sunscreens...


1. Is SPF 30 or 50 better for daily use?

As a rule, a facial sunscreen SPF 30 is the minimum requirement for adequate protection against photoaging. However, a higher SPF of 50 or more may be beneficial for prolonged outdoor activities or when you are in direct sunlight for an extended period of time.

The American Academy of Dermatology recommends using a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30, which blocks 97% of UVB rays, for daily use. Sunscreens with higher SPFs do not offer significantly more protection than those with an SPF of 30 for daily use. An SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays while and SPF 100 blocks 99%.

Another study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology concluded that SPF 50 sunscreens offer better protection against sunburn than SPF 30 sunscreens, but the difference is modest, and both offer substantial sunburn protection.

Explore my top picks of the best facial sunscreens on the blog here.

Sources: American Academy of Dermatology - Sunscreen FAQs; Gilchrest BA. Sunscreens for daily use: clinical implications of the spectrum of photoprotection - Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 2005;52(2 Suppl 1):S49-S55.

2. Is SPF 50 really necessary?

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, using a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 is recommended for daily use and provides adequate sunburn protection. While sunscreens with higher SPFs (such as SPF 50) may offer slightly more protection, the difference is modest and not significant.

Rather, it’s important to choose a daily sunscreen for face with broad-spectrum protection (protects against both UVA and UVB rays) and to reapply it every two hours or after swimming or sweating.

An article by the The Skin Cancer Foundation titled, Ask the Expert: Does a High SPF Protect My Skin Better? states that SPF 30 allows 3% of UVB rays to penetrate your skin while an SPF 50 allows about 2% of rays to pass the skin barrier. “That may seem like a small difference until you realize that the SPF 30 is allowing 50 percent more UV radiation onto your skin.”

Sources: American Academy of Dermatology; The Skin Cancer Foundation - Ask the Expert: Does a High SPF Protect My Skin Better?

3. Does SPF 50 mean reapply every 50 minutes?

No, SPF 50 does not mean that you need to reapply it every 50 minutes. The SPF (sun protection factor) number indicates the amount of protection that a sunscreen provides against UVB radiation, which is responsible for sunburn.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher should be applied 15 minutes before going outdoors and should be reapplied every two hours or immediately after swimming or sweating.

The exact reapplication time may vary depending on factors such as the amount of sunscreen applied and the activities you are doing, but it is generally recommended to reapply every two hours to maintain adequate protection from photoaging that results from unprotected sun exposure.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology - Sunscreen FAQs

4. Is the sun more damaging in the summer?

UV rays from the sun can cause damage to skin cells all year round, not just during the summer months. UV rays can penetrate through clouds and haze, and even when the temperature is cool. In fact, winter sports and activities such as skiing or snowboarding may increase the risk of UV exposure because snow reflects up to 80% of UV radiation.

Additionally, the American Academy of Dermatology states that UV rays can penetrate through windows, so it’s important to protect your skin even when inside a car, an airplane or office building.

Sun damage is the cause of up to 90% of photoaging, including wrinkles and sun spots, as well as an increased risk of skin cancer.

Thus, it is highly recommended that a facial sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher be applied even on cloudy, seemingly sunless days.

Sources: The Skin Cancer Foundation - Holiday Sun Protection; American Academy of Dermatology - Sunscreen FAQs


5. Product Review

Naturium UV Reflect Antioxidant SPF 50 Sunscreen Review

I want to start my review of the new Naturium UV Reflect Antioxidant SPF 50 Sunscreen with the one thing that sets it apart from the slew of facial sunscreens I’ve experienced over the past the several weeks.

The texture is simply divine.

I don’t think the product name does a good job of capturing that. Naming is not an easy thing to do. In addition to the issue over trademarking and availability, there are a lot of cooks in the kitchen – every marketer wants to, well, make their mark. The naming process can be daunting.

Look, I’m a skincare copywriter. Product names matter. And I’ve named hundreds of them: the best face creams, Vitamin C serums, hair shampoos, masks for pores, dark spot treatments and facial sunscreens – many that you’re likely familiar with (and some that you need to get to know!).

Among my favorites are the Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Correcting Serum and Kiehl’s Facial Fuel Energizing Moisture Treatment for Men. There’s also the Dr. Jart+ Cicapair ™ Tiger Grass Camo Drops and two new sunscreens: the Pavīse Dynamic Age Defense SPF 30 Sunscreen and toty Solaria Mineral SPF 50+ Antioxidant Sunscreen Serum – from Sofía Vergara’s new suncare brand.

When I first came across Naturium’s new UV Reflect Antioxidant Sunscreen I thought it was going to be a milky sunscreen fluid like the iconic Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk or the La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra Light Fluid Sunscreen SPF 60.

When you shake it, you hear that “shaka shaka” ball characteristic of J-beauty sun milks. I also thought it would be an antioxidant powerhouse – like that toty Solaria Mineral SPF 50+ Antioxidant Sunscreen Serum that I worked on with Sofía Vergara.

As it turns out, neither of these things is quite true. It doesn’t mean that it’s not a superb daily sunscreen for face. It means it’s incorrectly named (and why I’ll always have work!).

With three chemical sun filters (3.0% Avobenzone, 10.0% Homosalate and 5.0% Octisalate), the texture of Naturium’s new facial sunscreen is a silky, opaque serum, similar to the Supergoop! Daily Dose Vitamin C + SPF 40 Sunscreen Serum – one of my favorite sunscreens of all time. Upon application, it leaves a bit of reflectivity on your skin – a healthy iridescent glow. But the effect is not as enduring as the finish of the Supergoop! Daily Dose (also a chemical sunscreen). In fact, it disappears within a few minutes as the sunscreen is fully absorbed.

THE FIRST 100% MINERAL SPF TRANSPARENT ON ALL SKINS!



Is Naturium’s UV Reflect Antioxidant SPF 50 Sunscreen oil-free? No, it is not. It contains low levels of Soybean Oil and Squalane at ingredients #21-22 for maybe a combined 1% concentration. But all skin needs some oil and the feel isn’t oily IMO. Again, the UV Reflect Antioxidant Sunscreen texture is really nice.

The other thing I found appealing about it was the word “antioxidant” in the name. I was expecting something really solid. As I’ve often shared, I credit the youthful quality of my skin to the fact that I apply a facial sunscreen and numerous antioxidant face serums religiously every morning (and antioxidant serums again at night).

It is not uncommon for me to layer a Niacinamide serum and a face serum with Vitamin C into my routine in the morning. Two of my daily go-to’s are the Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster and Naturium’s Vitamin C Complex Serum. In fact, I always have back-stock of each. The #fomo is real!

I don’t think skincare marketers do a good job of communicating the importance of antioxidants. There’s not a whole lot of educating being done. They just ride the trend waves.

That’s what I think Naturium did with their UV Reflect Antioxidant Sunscreen. The first two antioxidants in the formula appear at ingredient numbers 18 and 19 in the INCI: Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract. The brand characterizes the duo as “2% InfraGuard to help protect against infrared, blue light and pollution-induced free radicals.”

What is InfraGuard? Well, according to the manufacturer, the proprietary antioxidant complex is a combination of organic sunflower shoots and antioxidants from the Tara tree. The two work together to neutralize free radicals and protect skin from oxidative stress caused by exposure to IR and blue light. The company claims it possesses antioxidant activity on par with Vitamin C.

I did find a PDF here that outlines a clinical trial done on 32 volunteers who used an SPF 30 sunscreen cream with 2% InfraGuard on the inside of one forearm. The 26 women and six men (35-61 years old) applied it twice daily on one arm and a placebo without InfraGuard on the other. “Before and after the holidays, skin firmness, elasticity, TEWL (skin barrier) and density (DermaScan® C) were measured. After the holiday, the skin barrier and density deteriorated on the skin area where only the sun cream was applied. Use of 2% InfraGuard not only protected the skin, but even improved it in all the mentioned parameters.”

It’s all interesting, but honestly, none of that would get me to part with my antioxidant serums. As far as a daily sunscreen for face, the Naturium UV Reflect Antioxidant SPF 50 Sunscreen is a solid bet.


6. Pros & Cons

What I like about it: The Naturium UV Reflect Antioxidant SPF 50 Sunscreen is a pleasure to use. Its light, silky texture melts immediately into skin and feels like nothing – great any time of the year but even better in the summer. I can appreciate the attempt at antioxidant innovation, but I think it’s more marketing spin than superior antioxidant protection. While it’s not “oil-free,” it is low on oils and is both alcohol-free and fragrance-free.

What I don’t like about it: I would like to see more tried-and-true antioxidants like Niacinamide, Licorice Root Extract, Green Tea Extract and the antioxidant OG – Vitamin C.

Who it’s for: All skin types, even oily and sensitive skins.

SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Naturium UV Reflect Antioxidant SPF 50 Sunscreen for $26 here.


The Ingredient List of the Naturium UV Reflect Antioxidant SPF 50 Sunscreen:

Active Ingredients:
Avobenzone 3.0%
Homosalate 10.0%
Octisalate 5.0%

Inactive Ingredients: Aqua/Water/Eau, Isododecane, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Acrylates Copolymer, Saccharomyces Ferment, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, C24-28 Alkyldimethylsiloxy Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Sodium Chloride, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Squalane, Raspberry Ketone, Lauroyl Lysine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Triethyl Citrate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Octyldodecanol, Tocopherol, Sodium Phytate, Polysorbate 60, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol



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