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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM MULTI-PEPTIDE ADVANCED SERUM - What do peptides do for skin? What can't you mix peptides with? What do copper peptides do?

PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM MULTI-PEPTIDE ADVANCED SERUM - What do peptides do for skin? What can't you mix peptides with? What do copper peptides do?

NATURIUM MULTI-PEPTIDE ADVANCED SERUM

I’ve really stepped my anti-aging game this year. Until recently, the main anti-aging component of my skincare routine has been focused on age prevention with a combination of antioxidants and sunscreen.

For correction of visible signs of aging, my PM routine has featured a Retinol face serum or anti-aging moisturizer with Retinol. Psst…one of my faves is the Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05%. (Catch my review of it here.)

But this year, I added peptides to the mix. It seems to be the Year of the Peptide!

How did I come to that conclusion? Well, multiple brands introduced peptide-powered skincare in 2023 – including Paula's Choice, Glow Recipe, The Ordinary and yes, Naturium. Something’s going on!

Early in the year, Naturium introduced their new Multi-Peptide Moisturizer. As I said in my Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer product review here, it is one of the best anti-aging moisturizers under $20. Priced at just $19 for a 1.7 oz. tube, I remain super impressed with its infusion of three anti-aging peptides, antioxidant Niacinamide, and one of the most potent forms of Vitamin C.

And a few weeks ago, Naturium followed up with a complementary anti-aging peptide serum – the Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum. It’s the perfect companion to their peptide face cream for those serious about fighting the signs of aging – around the clock. More on this new velvety serum Naturium below…

BEST NATURIUM PRODUCTS

Naturium’s $19 anti-aging moisturizer is far superior to so many over-priced, over-hyped anti-aging creams. Just look at the INCI of Dr. Barbara Sturm’s $360 Super Anti-Aging Face Cream. Beyond a few antioxidants, there’s nothing super or anti-aging about it. It’s just a jar of nonsense.

As impressive as Naturium’s Multi-Peptide Moisturizer is, I’ve been even more obsessed with the new Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer – which I recently reviewed on the blog here.

With a moderately rich texture that soothes and replenishes dry skin, the newly upgraded Resist Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer is one of the best anti-aging face creams for dry skin – and just about all skins in cold, dry air.

What these two superb face creams from Paula's Choice and Naturium have most in common is their reliance on anti-aging peptides to both support skin barrier health and address skin aging.

And while I was only joking that 2023 is the year of the peptide, it’s certainly been the year that peptides caught their stride. (For the record, it’s actually the Year of the Rabbit!) Skincare marketers were all over them. There were so many anti-aging products with peptides introduced this year it was hard to keep up.

PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM MULTI-PEPTIDE MOISTURIZER

The Ordinary seemed to kick off the craze in January when they repositioned, renamed and relabeled their classic “Buffet” peptide serum. I thought it was nuts at first and just a marketing ploy by their new leaders at Estee Lauder.

But, in the 11 months since it was reintroduced to the world, The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide + HA Serum has become one of the hottest face serums on the market. In fact, it’s a top-ten bestseller among Sephora’s offering of 57 anti-aging face serums.

And just this fall, Glow Recipe launched their new Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum. As with everything Glow Recipe makes, their latest fruit-inspired treatment is pure skincare joy.

There are so many excellent options for stepping up your anti-aging game with a peptide serum or face cream with peptides – as I have done myself this year. Along with antioxidants, sunscreen and Retinol, peptides have become a staple in my daily skincare routines. If you haven’t yet introduced peptides to your own routine, there’s no better time than now.


What are peptides and what do peptides do?

“Peptides are portions of short or long-chain amino acids, and amino acids are the building blocks of protein…Some peptides have demonstrated a remarkable skin-soothing effect, while others can improve the appearance of wrinkles, loss of firmness, and even help to soften the look of expression lines.”

- The Paula’s Choice Research Team


PRODUCT REVIEW: GLOW RECIPE POMEGRANATE PEPTIDE FIRMING SERUM


Before I get into my detailed Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum product review just below, I wanted to explore some of the most frequently asked questions about peptides as well as the copper peptide technology specific to Naturium’s new formula...


1. What do peptides do for skin?

Short-chain amino acid sequences, peptides are often referred to as the building blocks of proteins – essential components of human skin. Peptides play a crucial role in the communication between cells, stimulating various biological processes and optimizing skin functions.

When used in skincare like an anti-aging serum, peptides have the ability to offer a range of benefits that can improve your skin health over time and restore the youthful appearance of your complexion.

In fact, one of the primary benefits of certain anti-aging peptides is their ability to support collagen production. Collagen is a key structural protein that provides strength and elasticity to the skin. As we age, collagen production slows down, leading to a loss of firmness and the subsequent formation of surface fine lines and deeper wrinkles.

Some peptides, including the Matrixyl complex, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and copper peptides, can help stimulate the fibroblast cells responsible for producing collagen to help improve firmness, smooth the look of lines and wrinkles, and promote an overall more youthful appearance.

On the other hand, oligopeptides can enhance skin repair, reduce inflammation, and regulate melanin production, helping to unify and brighten your complexion. When paired with antioxidants like Vitamin C and Niacinamide, oligopeptides can be a highly effective solution for the treatment of dark spots and other forms of hyperpigmentation.

Explore my picks of the best Naturium products on the blog here.

Sources: Healthline: Peptides and Your Skin Care Routine; Dermstore: Peptides: Why They’re Good for Your Skin and How to Get More of Them

2. What can't you mix peptides with?

Unlike several potent actives, peptides have few conflicts with other ingredients. For instance, it is a good idea to avoid using harsh exfoliating actives like Glycolic Acid with Retinol as both often irritate the skin.

Because peptides often require a more neutral pH environment to remain stable and effective, they are often formulated in skincare products that do not require a low pH for specific actives to be most effective. As an example, a low pH helps to stabilize Ascorbic Acid, the pure form of Vitamin C, and enhance its absorption into the skin.

There is some evidence that copper peptides, specifically, are more sensitive in the presence of potent skincare actives – particularly Vitamin C and tretinoin. Thus, it is recommended to avoid using an anti-aging serum with copper peptides and a Vitamin C serum and/or a moisturizer with Vitamin C in the same routine. These combinations could potentially result in oxidation and the formation of free radicals – the opposite effect you’re seeking from your anti-aging skincare. If you’re using a potent retinoid like Retin-A or Tretinoin, consider using a serum with copper peptides on alternating nights.

As a rule, I use a Vitamin C serum in my morning routine and a peptide serum like the Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum or Glow Recipe’s Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum in my PM routine.

Explore my picks of the best Naturium products on the blog here.

Sources: Well+Good: 5 Combinations of Active Skin-Care Ingredients Not To Mix, According to Dermatologists; Procoal London: Can Peptides Be used with Tretinoin?

3. Are peptides better than retinol?

Both peptides and retinoids like Retinol are among the best anti-aging ingredients for wrinkles, loss of firmness, hyperpigmentation, and other signs of skin aging. They each deliver different benefits for the skin and can often be used in the same skincare routine as a complete anti-aging solution.

Peptides like Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and copper peptides help promote collagen synthesis to improve skin elasticity and target the look of wrinkles and loss of firmness.

On the other hand, retinoids like Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) and Tretinoin, effectively stimulate cell turnover, fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Ultimately, the choice between the two anti-aging actives depends on your personal skin concerns and desired results. Both peptides and retinoids are essential for a pro-skin health routine.

Explore my picks of the best Naturium products on the blog here.

Sources: 100% Pure: Peptides vs. Retinoids Which is Best for Your Skin; One Skin: Peptides vs Retinol: Is One Better For Increasing Skin Longevity?

4. What do copper peptides do?

Copper peptides are among the most beneficial of the broad range of anti-aging peptide molecules. They are known for their role in the body's natural healing process. Essentially a fusion of the mineral copper with a peptide molecule, copper peptides are highly effective for skin rejuvenation and repair.

But what do copper peptides do for skin? Notable for their wound-healing properties, copper peptides help to stimulate collagen and elastin production to promote skin firmness and elasticity. These unique peptides also possess potent antioxidant properties that help defend and protect skin from damaging free radicals and environmental skin aging.

And, by accelerating cell turnover, copper peptides aid in skin’s renewal process, helping to minimize the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and scars. Copper peptides can also help improve skin’s texture and tone for a more revitalized, radiant appearance.

Explore my picks of the best Naturium products on the blog here.

Sources: Byrdie: Copper Peptides Are Like Nature's Botox— Here's How to Use Them; Healthline: How Copper Peptides Assist the Health of Your Skin and Hair


5. Product Review

Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum Review

To start, Naturium’s lightweight, velvety Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum is just $25. It’s not only easily layered into a skincare routine, but it’s easy to do so without spending a lot.

Powered by encapsulated copper peptides and Argireline – the patented name for the Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 peptide molecule – the Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum is actually more than a wrinkle correction serum.

There are multiple antioxidants in the formula, including the copper peptides, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract and Ferulic Acid, to help prevent skin aging in the first place.

Of course, there’s no better age prevention than a facial sunscreen, but the combination of sun filters and antioxidants is the best solution. And, in my opinion, you can’t get enough antioxidants into your routine. I want to see antioxidants in everything – from my serums to my daily sunscreen and face cream.

You may be asking what encapsulated copper peptides do and why they’re encapsulated to begin with. I honestly have no idea what the benefit of that is here – beyond marketing spin.

The Ordinary’s best-selling $30 Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% Serum (previously the “Buffet” + Copper Peptides 1%) does not claim to use encapsulated peptides. The key benefit of encapsulation is to mitigate against irritation, as is common with a Retinol face serum. Irriation isn’t an common issue with peptides.

Encapsulated or not, copper peptides are among the best peptide molecules for addressing the most common signs of aging. So, what do copper peptides do for your skin? Well, they are powerhouse anti-aging actives known to rejuvenate and repair the skin. More specifically, copper peptides help stimulate collagen production to promote skin firmness and elasticity.

Copper peptides also have antioxidant properties and are known to help minimize the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and even scars.

According to the formula analysis website What’s In My Jar, the Naturium serum is formulated with an approximate 0.5% concentration of copper peptides as well as 0.5% Ferulic Acid.



In addition to the copper peptides, the Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum contains between
0.45% - 0.7% of Argireline – popularized by The Ordinary’s Argireline Solution 10%. The trademark name for Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Argireline is a synthetic peptide made from a protein found in the anti-wrinkle treatment Botox.

Similar to the popular dermatology treatment, Argireline works by limiting the ability of neurotransmitters to activate movement in facial muscles, reducing the visible appearance of surface lines and wrinkles.

The formula also contains a notable amount of both Squalane and Shea Butter, making it an effective lightweight moisturizer – and ideal as an anti-aging face cream for oily skin year-round and all skin types in the summer heat.

One note of caution: there is some evidence pointing to potential conflict between copper peptides and pure Vitamin C. While Naturium makes no mention of it, The Ordinary recommends avoiding the use of both “direct Vitamin C” (usually a reference to Ascorbic Acid) and even retinoids when using copper peptides. Personally, I simply use my Vitamin C serum in the morning and a peptide serum in my PM routine.

If you’re looking for a solid, affordable anti-aging peptide serum, Naturium’s Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum is a great option.


6. Pros & Cons

What I like about it: The Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum is one of the most well-rounded and best peptide serums available for the price. At just $25, you really can’t go wrong. It’s a solid formula that’s easily layered and can even be used as a lightweight anti-aging moisturizer.

What I don’t like about it: The conflict between copper peptides and pure Vitamin C restricts its use. However, it’s easily solved by incorporating each into separate routines.

Who it’s for: All skin types.

SHOP THE BLOG: Want to try it for yourself? Purchase the Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum for $25 here.


The Ingredient List of the Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum:


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