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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

THREE HOT FACIAL SERUMS FROM THE ORDINARY THAT I'M CRUSHING ON, TOO!
You know that bottle landed on the floor as he chuckled inside!

You know that bottle landed on the floor as he chuckled inside!

Until the launch of Deciem’s The Ordinary, we were all at the mercy of big beauty brands with their big marketing budgets.

It didn’t matter if the skincare formula was any good — or even good for your skin. What mattered is that the product sold. And big beauty marketers know that more advertising dollars (aka spin) means more sales.

Until very recently, if you didn’t want to overspend for skin care, you had very few options. First, you could go to your local drug store and splurge on mass market brands — with their twenty-five dollar serums and moisturizers.

But what’s a mass market brand, really? When I was working at Kiehl’s, it was an open secret that Lancôme marketed skincare products for the luxury consumer market that, with a few formula tweaks, were then cheapened and sold by sister brand L’Oreal in drug stores. So a $95 anti-aging moisturizer with a fancy French name could then be found in a similar, albeit watered-down formula, at Walgreen’s for $28.50. That’s how the game is played. It’s all marketing.

That’s not to say that all mass market skincare products are cheap versions of more expensive ones. There’s good skin care everywhere; you just have to know your stuff and see through the spin.

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If you didn’t want to overspend on skin care, you also had the option of making it yourself — with a good DIY skincare recipe. In fact, if you’ve got the time, that’s quite an effective means of taking really good care of your skin at very little cost. If you can bake a cake, you can make yourself a perfectly legitimate, relatively effective mask.

My good friend Nikita Upadhyay, herself a skinfluencer, recently published an entire book of magnificent DIY skin care and hair care recipes called, Roots to Radiance: Wholesome Beauty Solutions for the Millennial Life.

In Nikita’s book, you can find recipes for tightening masks, brightening masks, sun damage masks — even a mask for treating enlarged pores. For that one, all you need is an ice cube, some lemon juice, half a banana and a tablespoon of honey!

(You can grab a copy of Nikita’s book on Amazon, here!)

What The Ordinary did was to turn the world of skin care on its head. Suddenly, relatively well-formulated skin care was made available at surprisingly reasonable prices — what I term “democratic skin care”. The only catch is: you have to know something about how skincare and ingredients work — and how they interact with the skin.

The bargain that The Ordinary makes is we’ll give you access to a simple product at a really low price, but you have to know what to do with it.

Take Lactic Acid, for example. Until The Ordinary introduced its Lactic Acid 5% + HA serum, there were few, if any, brands offering a product like it. Particularly at $6.50!

But what is Lactic Acid, what do you use it for, and why do you need it?

A little research on Lactic Acid and you find out it’s a relatively potent form of Alpha Hydroxy Acid, one of the six AHAs — Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Tartaric Acid, Malic Acid and Mandelic Acid. I like to think of Lactic Acid as the kid brother of Glycolic Acid — they’re two of the most potent and effective substances for use in the chemical exfoliation of the skin.

The Ordinary simply describes its Lactic Acid 5% + HA as “an alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin.” Those are laymen’s terms that anyone can understand. If you want to know more, you can Google it:

“Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) extracted from milk, although most forms used in cosmetics are synthetic because that form is easier to formulate with and stabilize.

In a pH-correct formula (generally a product would have a pH between 3 and 4) and in concentrations between 5 and 12%, lactic acid exfoliates on the surface of skin by breaking down the material that holds dead skin together, allowing it to shed naturally as it once did. Lactic acid may cause sensitivity, although this isn’t common and can be minimized, if not eliminated, if the formulation contains soothing ingredients.

Lactic acid also has hydrating properties and, like glycolic acid (another AHA), helps brighten an uneven skin tone.”

- Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary

So what Deciem achieved with The Ordinary was to put all of us, the skincare consumer, in the driver’s seat. No longer are we at the mercy of big beauty brand marketers. We now have access to pro-skin health skin care — and can ignore all that spin.

I have long wanted to write a blog article about The Ordinary, but somehow I kept putting it off until I could get it just right. And it’s come at just the right time! The Ordinary recently introduced several of my favorite products at Sephora and I’m so honored that Deciem agreed to collaborate with me on a fantastic giveaway for the members of the Skincarma community!



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SKINCARMA….

GIVEAWAY!

Enter to win your choice of products from The Ordinary’s new introductions at Sephora! Winner may select up to (1) of each: Marine Hyaluronics, Pycnogenol 5%, Ethylated L Ascorbic Acid 15%, Vitamin C Powder, Lactic Acid 5% or Hemi-Squalane.

Share why you want to win in the comments below. Then, return to the Skincarma IG page and comment “Done”. Giveaway ends Sunday 03/01/2020.

Three winners will get the opportunity to select the products of their choice from The Ordinary’s six new offerings at Sephora. Each winner gets to select what works best for their skin! That’s how democratic skin care works, after all!

The Ordinary’s six new product introductions at Sephora:

100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder - An extremely fine, pure vitamin C powder that may be mixed with other suitable treatments in order to target the appearance of uneven skin tone, dullness, and signs of aging. 

Lactic Acid 5% + HA - A mild exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid to refine skin texture. This formula is supported by Tasmanian Peperberry that helps to reduce signs of inflammation and helps the skin acclimate better to acids. 

Ethlyated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution - An exceptionally stable form of Vitamin C that works to provide a radiant, healthy-looking skin tone.

Pycnogenol 5% Serum - A highly potent antioxidant that is derived from the pine bark of French Maritime Pine Trees. This serum can not only provide protection against a variety of environmental aggressors but additionally rejuvenate the skin by enhancing hydration and elasticity. 

Marine Hyaluronics - A water-light hydrating serum with marine-derived hydrators, algae extracts, and essential amino acids. 

100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane - An ultra-lightweight hydrator that is great for not only the skin, but also works to protect and condition the hair. This “oil” feels more like a serum because it has half the molecular weight of traditional squalane!

Let’s take a look at three of the products from The Ordinary that I’m most intrigued by…

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100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane

One of my favorite non-fragrant plant oils is Squalane. I love its rich, emollient texture, making it ideal for treating dry or very dry skin — and just about all skin types in winter.

What makes Squalane such a remarkably effective oil is the fact that it’s bio-compatible; the skin recognizes it as a friendly substance, allowing it to work to its full potential.

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IMO, it’s one of the better plant oils — along with Argan Oil, Almond Oil and Jojoba Oil — with excellent moisturizing and replenishing benefits for the skin.

Classified as one of the “best” ingredients for the skin by Paula Begoun and her team, Squalane is “the saturated portion of emollient ingredient squalene, which is a natural component of human skin sebum (oil). It is a wonderfully moisturizing ingredient as well as being a source of replenishing fatty acids and antioxidants.”

The one drawback to Squalane is that it can feel too rich on the skin — and isn’t an ideal oil for oilier skin types, or on warmer days. Which is why I love The Ordinary’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane.

Hemi-Squalane is similar to Squalane but with a lower molecular weight so the oil is not as heavy or greasy on the skin. In fact, it’s much lighter than standard Squalane with a consistency that’s barely thicker that water.

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The 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane is what’s termed a “dry oil,” meaning it doesn’t leave a greasy feel and is absorbed almost immediately by the skin.

In terms of texture, think of a dry oil as somewhere between an oily serum and a conventional facial oil. There’s an excellent piece on dry oils entitled, What Is A Dry Oil And Are You Using It Properly? here.

In classic Ordinary fashion, the brand’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane literally contains just a single ingredient — C13-16 Isoparaffin, or Hemi-Squalane. It’s defined by Deciem as a “non-polar hydrocarbon that is produced from the fermentation of sugar-based feedstock” — such as sugar cane and sugar beets. And, you know I love a good fermented active!

Hemi-Squalane is superbly spreadable on the skin, leaves no oily film, and is even an excellent treatment for frizzy hair.

As one of The Ordinary’s six new product introductions at Sephora, you can get 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane on the Sephora website here for just $3.95!

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane for $3.95 here.

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**WATCH VIDEO REVIEW OF THREE HOT FACIAL SERUMS FROM THE ORDINARY THAT I'M CRUSHING ON, TOO, ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**



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Pycnogenol 5% Serum

So you know I’m always on the lookout for new, potent and intriguing antioxidant serums. You can’t have enough antioxidants in your skin care — and in your skin.

When I first began my copywriting career in skin care, antioxidants were considered something only targeted at younger customers — generally women in their 20s. At Kiehl’s, we created an antioxidant-rich serum infused with Yerba Mate extract as part of a collection for a younger female customer. (It flopped!)

Antioxidants are all about prevention. Marketers believe older adults need correction, not prevention. How insane is that? As if preventing aging skin damage is something you should stop doing when you hit 30. Just give up, the damage is done. In your 40s? It’s time to focus on reversing the damage. That’s all marketing spin. Everyone’s skin needs antioxidants, every day, every year — no matter their age!

So, I was more than intrigued by The Ordinary’s latest antioxidant serum — the Pycnogenol 5% Serum.

First, how the heck do you pronounce it?

Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way, what is Pycnogenol?

Well, Pycnogenol is a natural plant extract derived from the pine bark of French maritime pine trees. As whack as that may sound, it’s actually not all that crazy. A staple of traditional “Hanbang” Korean medicine, fermented pine needles deliver a potent antioxidant and anti-aging benefit to the skin.

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The Ordinary’s Pycnogenol 5% contains bioflavonoids and organic acids that the brand says help to enhance hydration and elasticity in the skin.

This innovative ingredient also has the ability to protect against collagen and elastin degradation — something that’s particularly important for people in their 40s and up. (You see, everyone needs antioxidants!)

But perhaps the most important benefit of Pycnogenol is that it is able to restore the activity of oxidized Vitamin C in the skin. That sounds like serious stuff! Like taking an anti-venom after a snake bite. The last thing you want is oxidized Vitamin C wreaking havoc in your skin cells.

Of the Pycnogenol 5% formula, The Ordinary says,

“With the ability to selectively bind to collagen and elastin, Pycnogenol® protects these proteins from degradation, helping to nourish the skin from the inside out. Being a unique and powerful antioxidant, Pycnogenol® scavenges for free radicals before they cause damage by oxidative stress. It can also recycle oxidized Vitamin C to restore its activity.

You see why I’m intrigued by this impossible-to-say antioxidant serum? A word of caution, from Deciem, though: “After application, please wash hands and avoid product contact with light coloured fabric as it may stain.”

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Pycnogenol 5% Serum for $9.40 here.

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**WATCH VIDEO REVIEW OF THREE HOT FACIAL SERUMS FROM THE ORDINARY THAT I'M CRUSHING ON, TOO, ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**


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The Ordinary Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution

I’ve been excited by The Ordinary’s Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution for a while now, so it’s cool to see one of the best Vitamin C serums available getting the love it deserves!

Sometimes, less is more. And in the case of The Ordinary’s Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution, there’s a whole lot of punch packed into the tight formula, comprised of just two ingredients: Propanediol and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.

It’s funny, until I started exploring clean skin care for my Clean, Green Skincare Routine, I had never even considered this particular Vitamin C serum. It’s not that I didn’t want to try it; rather, it was because I really loved The Ordinary’s Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F. That was my daily go-to for my morning routine for the longest time.

The form of Vitamin C in the Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% formula, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, acts similarly to Ascorbic Acid and is similar in molecular weight to that pure form of Vitamin C. As such, it delivers quick, visible brightening of the complexion.

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And, it’s supremely stable in the absence of water and is suspended instead in Propanediol — a commonly used, well-tolerated glycol that enhances the absorption of actives like Vitamin C. Propanediol also possesses hydrating properties and leaves skin feeling soft and velvety.

Deciem distinguishes its Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution this way:

“Unlike other Vitamin C derivatives, this ethylated form acts directly like Vitamin C, is closer in molecular weight to actual Vitamin C which allows for faster visible results, and offers a much better stability profile than any known direct-acting form of Vitamin C.”

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The texture of the Ethylated Ascorbic Acid treatment is interesting. It feels only slightly oily for about five-ten seconds; then it’s gone. It absorbs right into the skin, making it ideal for layering when time is tight — as in the morning.

But it isn’t the Vitamin C that makes that happen. It’s the Propanediol which, again, enhances the absorption of the vitamin into the skin’s upper layers where it’s most beneficial.

Perhaps more than any of my top Vitamin C picks, I love the texture of The Ordinary’s Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution. Of course, I love that it’s stabilized and packaged in an opaque glass bottle with a dropper. There’s literally zero chance that it’s going to oxidize — so you get all the goodness and none of the worry.

Hey if you’re worried about your Vitamin C oxidizing, you know what to do! Reach for the anti-venom Pycnogenol 5% from The Ordinary to reactivate your Vitamin C!

Seriously, you can’t go wrong with The Ordinary’s Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase The Ordinary Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution for $18 here.


That’s it guys! I hope you’ve enjoyed this breakdown of three of my fave Ordinary products — now available at Sephora. Be sure to enter the giveaway — and if you have a moment, please subscribe to my YouTube channel here.

🖤 SKINCARMA


**WATCH VIDEO REVIEWS OF MY FAVORITE PRODUCTS AND BRANDS ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE.**


Orpheus loves his #solaraglow too!

Orpheus loves his #solaraglow too!


The Ingredient List of the The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of the The Ordinary Pycnogenol 5%:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


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