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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: KAT BURKI RETIN-C TREATMENT COMPLEX - BEST VITAMIN C SERUM, BEST ANTI-AGING SERUM WITH RETINOL

KAT BURKI | RETIN-C TREATMENT COMPLEX

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

This review was originally part of my blog article titled, Collab with Antonio Jefferson Studio: New Vitamin C Serums I’m Crushing On from Wander Beauty, Glossier, Kat Burki and More - Best Vitamin C Serums, Best Brightening Serums. You can catch the full piece here.

Over the last few months I’ve been collaborating with one of my most creative, motivated and inspiring friends — New York-based photographer Antonio Jefferson.

Antonio recently set up his own photo studio in the Bronx called Antonio Jefferson Studio where he shoots for beauty and fashion brands — and even his own collection of dope streetwear.

Meet Antonio…

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios


“Growing up in a military family, Antonio Jefferson began traveling at an early age. From Dallas to Las Vegas to Japan, his childhood introduced him to the diverse beauty of the world around us — a beauty he felt inspired to share.

From behind the camera, Antonio realized that he could paint stories of his journeys through snapshots of the places, people, and things he encountered. It was here, in this quest for others to share the adventure, that Antonio’s passion for photography was born.

Today, Antonio uses his passion to tell the stories of friends, pioneers, curators, and brands. He thrives on finding the perfect still representation of the beauty in everything.

If you’re ready for your story to be told, reach out today.”

- Antonio Jefferson


Every image in my blog New Vitamin C Serums I’m Crushing On was shot by Antonio, bringing Skincarma product imagery to a whole new level. Something I couldn’t have achieved on my own. I hope you enjoy them as much as I do! Check them out here.

And be sure to check out Antonio’s portfolio of fashion and product images on his site here — and follow his journey on his IG page, too!

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

There are two ingredients that I wish everyone on Earth who’s serious about their skin health would incorporate into their own skincare routines — Vitamin C and Vitamin B3, or Niacinamide. Both are indispensable antioxidants — and much, much more. In the case of a good Vitamin C treatment, it can be one of the best anti-aging serums in your arsenal.

Yes, like sunscreen antioxidants are anti-aging.

Right at the start of the year, I published an article about my favorite Vitamin C serums of 2020 in a piece titled, The Year’s Best Vitamin C Serums with Paula's Choice, Sunday Riley, The Inkey List and More! which you can catch here. It was a collection of the latest and greatest Vitamin C serums, brightening face oils, anti-aging lotions and dark spot treatments.

Among my top picks were some of my favorite brightening Vitamin C serums to this day, including the Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster and BeautyStat’s Universal C Skin Refiner. I’ve used up and replaced each of those products multiple times over the past year or so. During the darkest days of the pandemic, at least my skin was bright!

THE YEAR’S BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS WITH PAULA'S CHOICE, SUNDAY RILEY, THE INKEY LIST AND MORE!

Also in the mix were the cult Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum and The Inkey List’s 15% Vitamin C and EGF Brightening Serum — a super silky, lightweight oil.

And rounding out my most recent collection is one of the best dark spot treatments — the Paula’s Choice C25 Super Booster, powered by an extraordinary 25% concentration of Ascorbic Acid, the pure form of Vitamin C.

WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

MY 2021 VITAMIN C PICKS + THE BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS TO BRIGHTEN UP THE COMPLEXION!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


Just two years ago, Vitamin C was perhaps the most under-appreciated of all skincare ingredients. Mainly because it seemed to be old news. And marketers don’t push what’s old; they spend their marketing dollars on what’s new, fresh, sexy and innovative — whether it works or not. Their job is to make you believe what they’re pushing does.

Until recently, it’s also been nearly impossible to keep high levels of Vitamin C stable in a skincare formula. The truly effective levels weren’t possible. Until you get to ten percent or more, you don’t really get the power brightening, collagen-building benefits that Vitamin C has to offer.

PRODUCT REVIEW: PAULA’S CHOICE C15 SUPER BOOSTER - BEST VITAMIN C SERUM, BEST BRIGHTENING SERUM


What Does Vitamin C Do for Skin?

There’s an excellent article on the remarkable benefits of Vitamin C for the skin from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, What is Vitamin C and How Does it Benefit Skin?

Vitamin C is one of the most exciting, research-proven ingredients you can apply to skin. This water-soluble antioxidant is a natural component of healthy skin. When we’re young, vitamin C levels in skin’s outermost two layers (epidermis and dermis) are abundant, but as we age, these levels naturally deplete. Unprotected sun exposure (UV damage) and pollution can accelerate this decline, leading to skin looking and feeling dull, uneven, and less firm than it once was.

Luckily, there are topical skin care solutions that can help mitigate this damage, so skin looks and feels healthier and younger longer.

Vitamin C Benefits for Skin

Vitamin C’s benefits for skin are vast, including its ability to even out skin tone and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. While this powerhouse ingredient is well-known for its skin-brightening benefits, research also shows it can shield skin from the visible impacts of environmental stressors, including free radical damage. This synergy of mitigating problems both before and after they occur makes vitamin C a force to be reckoned with.



WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

2020’s BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS WITH THE ORDINARY, CLINIQUE, BEAUTY STAT & MORE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


With the understanding that Vitamin C can be a real game changer for your skin health (and your complexion!), let’s take a look at five of the best Vitamin C serums, lotions and even a dope mask that I’ve been crushing on over the last several weeks.

Meet one of my favorite Vitamin C skincare products for SS21, shot by Antonio…

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

Kat Burki | Retin-C Treatment Complex

Call me a Kat Burki superfan. One of favorite new brand discoveries of 2021, Kat Burki has yet to let me down. I’m literally infatuated with several of the brand’s products. Experiencing Kat Burki is pure skincare joy for me, every time. There’s just so much nourishing, pro-skin health goodness in the formulas. And she nails it with the textures, too.

While I’ve enjoyed it all, I gotta say there’s nothing like Kat Burki’s Goji Essence — one of my favorite product discoveries of 2021. I’ve read it’s Kat’s personal fave and I can understand why. There’s just something about it that makes my skin come alive.

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PRODUCT REVIEW: KAT BURKI GOJI ESSENCE - BEST LACTIC ACID TREATMENT, BEST FERMENTED ESSENCE


I’ve also been smitten by the Kat Burki Vital Hydration Blast, featured in my #selfcaresunday video on my YouTube channel a couple of weeks ago. If you missed it, you can still catch it here for your own #selfcaresunday session this coming weekend!

I’m not even close to exaggerating when I say that Kat’s Vital Hydration Blast is one of the most luxurious, skin-pampering moisture masks I’ve ever tried. I can’t get enough of it and have often left it on for hours on end. The longer, the better.

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What Are Antioxidants and What Do Antioxidants Do for Skin?

Antioxidants possess numerous benefits for the skin, including preventing skin damage and multiple signs of aging. There’s an excellent article from the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, How Antioxidants Fight the Signs of Aging that you can catch here. This is what I found most insightful:

Antioxidants for Skin Benefits

Antioxidants play a unique role when it comes to diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Years of environmental damage (including unprotected sun exposure—one more reason to apply that broad-spectrum sunscreen!) slowly chip away at skin’s natural ability to look and feel healthy. As this damage builds up, skin gradually loses its ability to recover and bounce back as it once did. It’s not an exaggeration to say that after years of damage, skin becomes overwhelmed, and its “look young systems” begin to slow down.

Antioxidants in skin care step in to help shield skin’s surface from further deterioration by calming stressed skin and defending against the visible effects of pollution —something all of us encounter on a daily basis.

What happens as a result of applying antioxidants to your face is truly impressive: Skin’s appearance begins to turn around! It regains a firmer feel and more even skin tone—and those wrinkles you’re probably not fond of will visibly soften.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

CHILLIN ON SELFCARE SUNDAY WITH KAT BURKI AND THIS BOMB HYDRATING MASK!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

With a few faves under my belt, I was pumped to get to try the Kat Burki Retin-C Treatment Complex. It’s a unique combination of both Vitamin C and Vitamin A, or Retinol — in the form of Rovisome Retinol. I hadn’t come across Rovisome Retinol yet, so this is a first for me. There’s not a lot of information on it and even the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team haven’t gotten around to fully evaluating Rovisome Retinol yet.

According to the manufacturer, “Rovisome Retinol Moist is a stabilized vitamin A and can effectively reduce the appearance of wrinkles without inducing skin irritation. The Rovisome delivery system can provide formulators with the ability to deliver cosmetic actives to deeper skin layers, increasing ingredient bioavailability to the skin.”

Paired with the uncommon retinoid is Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate — a stable, water-soluble form of Vitamin C. According to the Paula’s Choice Research Team, while it functions as an effective antioxidant and skin brightener, “There is also research showing amounts of 1% and 5% concentrations of sodium ascorbyl phosphate can influence factors linked to breakouts. Thus, this form of vitamin C may be an effective adjunct to anti-acne products that contain benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid.”

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

At the heart of the Retin-C Treatment Complex, as with all of the brand’s formulas, is Kat’s signature antioxidant botanical blend — KB5 Complex. It comprises five natural extracts of arnica montana, centella asiatica, lavender, calendula and chamomile.

Added to the mix of the KB5 Complex, retinoid and Vitamin C, the formula is an antioxidant powerhouse with numerous botanical extracts — including Borage Seed Oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), and Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract.

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

Photo credit: ©2021 Antonio Jefferson, Antonio Jefferson Studios

Not much heavier than a toner, the Kat Burki Retin-C Treatment Complex has the lightest texture of the five Vitamin C products reviewed on the blog. The texture surprises me given the formula’s levels of nourishing non-fragrant plant oils, including Tamanu Oil, Flax Seed Oil, Grapeseed Oil and Evening Primrose Oil — one of the best anti-aging plant oils used in skincare.

It’s such an easy product to layer into a skincare routine. Notably, I’ve experienced no irritation after several consecutive nights of use.

SHOP THE BLOG: Purchase Kat Burki Retin-C Treatment Complex for $165 here.


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

MY 2021 VITAMIN C PICKS + THE BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS TO BRIGHTEN UP THE COMPLEXION!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE



Orpheus always takes his morning vitamins!

The Ingredient List of the Wander Beauty Sight C-er Vitamin C Concentrate:

Water, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Propanediol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Triethylhexanoin, Arachidyl Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vinyl Dimethicone, Titanium Dioxide, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Peg-100 Stearate, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Arachidyl Glucoside, Polyisobutene, Sorbitan Isostearate,citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 60, Disodium Edta, Tin Oxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer.

The Ingredient List of the Glossier Super Glow Vitamin C + Magnesium Serum:

The Ingredient List of the Beautycounter Counter+ All Bright C Serum:

Aqua/Water/Eau, Propanediol, Bis-Glyceryl Ascorbate*, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate*, Pentylene Glycol, Coconut Alkanes, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract†, Curcumin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Phytic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Decanal, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Ionone, Ethyl Lactate, Vanillin, Isoamyl Acetate, Ethyl 2-Methylbutyrate, Methoxyphenylbutanone, Dec-9-en-2-one, Dimethylhydroxy Furanone, Ethyl Propionate, Ethyl Cinnamate, Hexenyl Acetate, Triethyl Citrate, Benzyl Acetate, Ethyl Acetate. Citral+, Limonene+, Linalool+

*Vitamin C | †Camu Camu Extract | + Naturally occurring in essential oils & natural materials as defined by International Organization for Standardization

The Ingredient List of the Kat Burki Retin-C Treatment Complex:

KB5 Complex (Arnica Montana (Arnica), Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola), Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender), Calendula Officinalis (Calendula), Matricaria Recutita (Chamomile)), Hamamelis Virginiana Water (Witch Hazel), Cassia Angustifolia Seed Extract (Botanical Hyaluronic Acid), Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Borago Officinalis Seed Oil (Borage), Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil (Tamanu Oil), Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil (Flax Seed Oil), Oenothera Biennis Oil (Evening Primrose Oil), Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (Jojoba Oil), Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (Grapeseed Oil), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (Aloe), Rovisome Retinol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green Tea), Propolis Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract (Horsetail), Geranium Maculatum Extract (Geranium), Taraxacum Officinale Extract (Dandelion), Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol (Preservative, less than 1%), Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative, less than 1%), Natural Fragrance, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene

The Ingredient List of the Algenist Blue Algae Vitamin C Dark Spot Correcting Peel:

Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil aox|emo 0 0-2, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil emo 0 0, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil emo, Glycolic Acid exf|buff, Gluconolactone exf|chel, Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate emu, Aminomethyl Propanol buff, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) aox|sb|buff, Mandelic Acid exf|amic, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate emo|emu, Oleth-5 emu 2 3, Alpha-Bisabolol so, Menthoxypropanediol, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Algae Exopolysaccharides h, Citric Acid buff, Azelaic Acid aacne|so|buff, Tranexamic Acid sb, Malic Acid exf|buff, Salicylic Acid exf|aacne|so|pres, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate so|h, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) aox 0 0, Tanacetum Annuum (Blue Tansy) Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil amic|perf, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract emo, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract aox|so|sb|perf, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil emo 0 0-2, Tocopherol (Vitamin E) aox 0-3 0-3, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Glyceryl Stearate SE emu 2 3, Sodium Citrate chel|buff, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax perf|vc, Candelilla Cera emo 0 1, Behenyl Alcohol emo|vc, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate emu, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, Water solv, Phenoxyethanol pres
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


PRODUCT REVIEW: ALGENIST BLUE ALGAE VITAMIN C DARK SPOT CORRECTING PEEL - BEST AHA MASK, BEST BRIGHTENING MASK WITH VITAMIN C

PRODUCT REVIEW: ALGENIST BLUE ALGAE VITAMIN C DARK SPOT CORRECTING PEEL - BEST AHA MASK, BEST BRIGHTENING MASK WITH VITAMIN C

PRODUCT REVIEW: GLOSSIER SUPER GLOW VITAMIN C + MAGNESIUM SERUM - BEST VITAMIN C SERUM, BEST BRIGHTENING SERUM FOR OILY SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: GLOSSIER SUPER GLOW VITAMIN C + MAGNESIUM SERUM - BEST VITAMIN C SERUM, BEST BRIGHTENING SERUM FOR OILY SKIN