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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD COPPER AMINO ISOLATE LIPID 1 % (CAIL) - BEST PEPTIDE SERUM, BEST SLEEPING MASK

NIOD COPPER AMINO ISOLATE LIPID 1 % (CAIL)

This product review was originally part of my blog article titled, Seasonal Skincare Transitioning: The Best Products from The Ordinary and NIOD that Get Me Excited for Cold Weather! You can catch the full piece here.

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Happy Slowvember!

I’m a long-time fan of both Deciem’s The Ordinary and NIOD brands.

Notably, democratically-priced The Ordinary made great skincare accessible to everyone, literally revolutionizing skin care.

The Ordinary was one of the first brands that offered a broad range of single-note products — that is, products focused on one primary active ingredient. In doing so, they met the curiosity of consumers to learn about ingredients and how they benefit their skin.

The Ordinary empowers us to weed through the chaos and confusion created by big beauty marketers and truly focus on skin’s unique needs. And to me, The Ordinary is about making optimal skin health possible for everyone.

I first began my not-so-ordinary journey with the brand about five years ago, just as The Ordinary was bursting onto the skincare scene. A few early favorites were the Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% serum, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder. In fact, that entirely basic pure Vitamin C powder was the first-ever Skincarma Product of the Year, in 2018!

THE SKINCARMA PRODUCT OF THE YEAR : THE ORDINARY 100% L-ASCORBIC ACID POWDER

And, over the years I’ve become somewhat of a superfan of Deciem’s high-science NIOD brand. With unique, potent skincare and wildy nerdy names, several of the brand’s products are regular staples in my pro-skin health regimen.

Among these is the brand’s intriguing Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist. Referred to more simply as SDSM2, it isn’t just some run-of-the-mill skincare product; and it’s much more than a hydrating toner. A the name indicates, SDSM2 is enriched with a substance called Superoxide Dismutase — a naturally occurring antioxidant found in the skin that’s the body’s most essential antioxidant to fend off cell damage.

According to the NIOD scientists, “Superoxide is the main reactive oxygen species in each cell and SOD is the body's natural way of out-competing the ongoing and very damaging effect of superoxide in cells. Arguably, SOD is the most important force against oxidation in the human body.”

PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASE SACCHARIDE MIST (SDSM2)

During the month of November, which Deciem brilliantly refers to as Slowvember, the company is once again breaking the mold by discounting all of its skincare products by 23%.

The annual Slowvember sales event began two years as a way to combat the blatant consumerism of Black Friday. And I’m so excited to see the company now making a tradition of it! Three years makes it a tradition, right?


Deciem’s Slowvember is here again!

Welcome to Slowvember. A journey into a new, gentle world, after an isolated year. For the month of November, we will focus on bringing soothing experiences, creating moments of calm, and allowing space for the appreciation of small things. We hope this comfortable environment will encourage deliberate, considered purchases, allowing you to truly benefit from our 23% saving.

BYE-BYE BLACK FRIDAY. 

On the day formerly known as Black Friday, the DECIEM website and stores will pause. We will use the time to focus on connections over transactions, sharing experiences and events such as live music and workshops that encourage a comfortable pace, and celebrating the beauty in slowing down.

DOING THE RIGHT THING.

We believe that beauty is between us and the world around us. That’s why we’re continuously working to have a positive impact on people, animals, and the planet. You can read more about how we respect small and big things here.


FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER

GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!

CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT


Last year, I celebrated Slowvember with a feature on oily skin and The Ordinary’s curated assortment of solutions for oily skin types — The Balance Set. The brand had just introduced this first complete collection of skin-health basics. The Balance Set contains four daily skincare essentials for promoting and maintaining optimal skin health — and all for $29. Psst…during Slowvember, The Balance Set is just $23.33!

THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – SOME OF THE BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY

What’s in The Ordinary’s “The Balance Set”?

Well, The Balance Set includes two of my all-time faves from The Ordinary — the pore-clearing Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the ooey-gooey skin-licious Squalane Cleanser, one of the best cleansers for dry skin. Come to think of it, with the texture of a cleansing balm, it’s a perfectly legitimate cleanser for all skin types — including oily skin, combination skin and especially sensitive skin.

Rounding out the collection are the super-messy-but-worth-it Salicylic Acid 2% Masque and The Ordinary’s only conventional cream moisturizer, Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA.

The Balance Set is the perfect starter kit for those wanting to discover what The Ordinary is all about. And, it’s perfect, too, for travel or for trying something new at an even more affordable price. $23.33 for a complete skincare regimen is a steal!

This year, the brand offers three additional sets, among them is The Daily Set — a trio of bestsellers that includes Squalane Cleanser, the super popular Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 and Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA.

You can check out all four sets here.

For Slowvember 2021, I thought it would be cool to feature a few of my favorites from both The Ordinary and NIOD — as part of my “seasonal skincare transitioning” articles, which I kicked off a few weeks ago with a two-part series titled, Moisturizers I Love That Make Me Excited For Cold Weather.

SEASONAL SKINCARE: MOISTURIZERS I LOVE THAT MAKE ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER

This year’s Slowvember picks include two products from The Ordinary — the Squalane Cleanser and the 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane, a personal fave dry facial oil.

From NIOD, I featured three of my favorites. The brand’s Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC2) is one of the best Hyaluronic Acid serums I’ve ever come across. I’ve probably been through two dozen bottles of it over the years!


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


Also in the mix is one of the most unusual products in the NIOD catalogue, the brand’s Hydration Vaccine (HV). It’s weird, but once you understand it, you appreciate it. And rounding out this year’s Slowvember picks is NIOD’s wildly intriguing, peptide-powered mask-serum hybrid, Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1 % (CAIL).

Let’s take a look at one of my Slowvember picks that hydrates, moisturizers and plumps my skin — and actually gets me excited for colder weather…


NIOD | Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1%

If you’re a fan of NIOD, you know the brand doesn’t introduce products often. As I’ve said, I look to NIOD for more intriguing, hard-science products like the brand’s copper peptide-powered Copper Amino Isolate Serum 2:1, or CAIS2.

The cool, electric blue two-step CAIS2 serum you mix yourself makes me feel like I’m back in my high school chemistry class paired up with my prom date, Carla Pia Mills (I have to find those pictures!).

Psst…the brand recently introduced a pre-mixed version which, while not as fun to use, is equally effective. Check out the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (CAIS3) here.

So when NIOD came out with their new copper peptide moisture treatment, Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% (CAIL), I was intrigued from day one.

CAIL was NIOD’s only new product introduction of the last year. And the stuff, as expected, is just so weird.

The Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% is tough to characterize — classic NIOD. It’s formulated for evening use and has a thick gooey, glue-like texture that feels like it should be used alone. It’s pretty impossible to layer.

Deciem says the CAIL formula is a “pro-collagen, pro-lipid, pro-fat formula [that] branches from the concept of NIOD’s multi-award-winning Copper Amino Isolate Serum, with the additional benefits of building and enhancing skin barrier function, elasticity and integrity via lipophilic pathways.”

You know I was like, okay where am I, on the Starship Enterprise getting a facial on the holo-deck? Lipophilic pathways don’t seem like they should be blocked by anything.


What Are Copper Peptides and What Are Peptides in Skincare?

Peptides are quite fascinating things. And I think most people, even die-hard skincare users, would have a hard time explaining what peptides are and what role they play in the skin. I found an insightful piece on peptides, and specifically copper peptides, on the Byrdie website titled, Copper Peptides Are Like Nature's Botox, Here's How to Use Them.

Over the past few years, we've noticed a major trend gaining ground within the beauty industry and among skincare enthusiasts like ourselves: From 24 karat gold–infused facial oils to diamond dust–encrusted setting powders to colloidal silver eye masks, metallics are taking over.

And most recently, copper—specifically copper peptides—has repeatedly caught our eye as we peruse the ingredient lists of our favorite serums. And apparently, we aren't alone. We spoke to experts Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, MD, founder of Mudgil Dermatology in NYC; Joanna Vargas, celebrity facialist and founder of Joanna Vargas Salons and Skin Care; Marie Hayag, MD, Board Certified Dermatologist and Founder of 5th Avenue Aesthetics; and Nancy Pellegrino, NP and co-founder of THE ROUTE.

“Copper peptides are well known in the skincare world with decades of data as a skin restoring ingredient causing skin improvement including skin firmness, smoothness, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, by promoting collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycan (think HAs) and improved antioxidant activity,” says Pellegrino. They're increasingly popular—for instance, in just one month, ‘copper peptides serums’ was searched more than 1000 times on Google. And considering the acclaimed benefits of this particular kind of peptide (like the collagen-increasing and wrinkle-reducing), we're not all that surprised by the apparent fascination.


The Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% is a weirdly cool treatment that really is best used alone as the last and only step of your skincare routine. I’ve certainly had my share of nights where I don’t feel like doing anything, but don’t want to wake up looking like I did nothing! CAIL is the perfect skincare cheat. Wash your face, apply a hydrating toner, slop on some CAIL — and go to bed!

In addition to the skin-plumping and fortifying copper peptides, there’s a significant level of plant-derived Squalane in the CAIL formula at ingredient number one. It has this remarkable occlusive benefit to it that really does keep skin moisturized throughout the night. (More on occlusion below.)

I have to say I was, and remain, befuddled by Deciem’s advice that CAIL should be applied before Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex or, I would assume, your humectant serum. So, I DM’d Deciem directly. Apparently it has to do with the molecular sizes of the formula’s ingredients. I was totally trippin’ on this for weeks then realized some things are better left alone.

So, I use CAIL alone and get my zzz’s…

SHOP THE BLOG: For the month of November only, purchase the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% for $69.30 (reg. $90) here.


FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER

GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!

CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT



WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

HAPPY SELFCARE SUNDAY! DETOXING WITH NIOD’S FLAVANONE MUD – ONE OF THE BEST CLAY MASKS EVERRRRR!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

A COMPLETE $100 SKINCARE ROUTINE WITH THE INKEY LIST, THE ORDINARY, BENTON & MORE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

#SELFCARESUNDAY IS THE BEST DAY FOR CLARITY…AND A DOSE OF PORE MAINTENANCE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

SUMMER 2020 MOISTURIZERS PART I

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

MY WINTER SKIN SAVIOR: SKINFIX BARRIER+ LIPID REPLENISHING SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

THE BEST BHA / AHA TONERS FOR FACE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

THE YEAR’S BEST VITAMIN C SERUMS WITH THE ORDINARY, CLINIQUE, BEAUTY STAT & MORE!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

MY #SELFCARESUNDAY ESSENTIALS WITH SKINFIX, HERBIVORE AND SELFLESS!

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


The Ingredient List of The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC2):

Aqua (Water) solv, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract h, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Hyaluronic Acid sii|h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Sodium Butyroyl Hyaluronate h, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate h, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate h, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate cci, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides h, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum h|vc, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract aox|h, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum emo|vc, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 cci, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract so|aox|amic, Salvia Sclarea Extract so, Arginine sii, Aspartic Acid sii, Glycine sii, Alanine sii, Serine sii, Valine sii, Isoleucine sii, Proline sii, Threonine sii, Histidine sii|h, Phenylalanine sii, Pca sii|h, Sodium Pca sii|h 0 0, Betaine h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside aox|so, Gallyl Glucoside aox|so, Algae Extract emo|h, Sodium Salicylate pres, Lecithin emo|emu, Polyglucuronic Acid h, Xanthan Gum vc, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Sclerotium Gum vc, Pullulan, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose vc, Propanediol solv|h, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Citric Acid buff, Magnesium Chloride vc, Silica vc, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Propyl Gallate aox|perf, Dehydroacetic Acid pres, Benzyl Alcohol pres|perf|solv|vc, Potassium Sorbate pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Phenoxyethanol pres
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Hydration Vaccine (HV):


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1 % (CAIL):

* Palmitoyl-GHK-Cu is a version of GHK-Cu with a Palmitoyl group attached to its structure to enhance its lipophilic properties for improved skin affinity.
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

SEASONAL SKINCARE TRANSITIONING: FACIAL OILS I LOVE THAT MAKE ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER - PART ONE – BEST FACIAL OILS, BEST FACE OILS FOR DRY SKIN

SEASONAL SKINCARE TRANSITIONING: FACIAL OILS I LOVE THAT MAKE ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER - PART ONE – BEST FACIAL OILS, BEST FACE OILS FOR DRY SKIN

SEASONAL SKINCARE TRANSITIONING: THE BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY AND NIOD THAT GET ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER!

SEASONAL SKINCARE TRANSITIONING: THE BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY AND NIOD THAT GET ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER!