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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD HYDRATION VACCINE (HV) - BEST HYDRATING CREAM, BEST CREAM TO FIX DEHYDRATION

NIOD HYDRATION VACCINE (HV)

This product review was originally part of my blog article titled, Seasonal Skincare Transitioning: The Best Products from The Ordinary and NIOD that Get Me Excited for Cold Weather! You can catch the full piece here.

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Happy Slowvember!

I’m a long-time fan of both Deciem’s The Ordinary and NIOD brands.

Notably, democratically-priced The Ordinary made great skincare accessible to everyone, literally revolutionizing skin care.

The Ordinary was one of the first brands that offered a broad range of single-note products — that is, products focused on one primary active ingredient. In doing so, they met the curiosity of consumers to learn about ingredients and how they benefit their skin.

The Ordinary empowers us to weed through the chaos and confusion created by big beauty marketers and truly focus on skin’s unique needs. And to me, The Ordinary is about making optimal skin health possible for everyone.

I first began my not-so-ordinary journey with the brand about five years ago, just as The Ordinary was bursting onto the skincare scene. A few early favorites were the Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% serum, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder. In fact, that entirely basic pure Vitamin C powder was the first-ever Skincarma Product of the Year, in 2018!

THE SKINCARMA PRODUCT OF THE YEAR : THE ORDINARY 100% L-ASCORBIC ACID POWDER

And, over the years I’ve become somewhat of a superfan of Deciem’s high-science NIOD brand. With unique, potent skincare and wildy nerdy names, several of the brand’s products are regular staples in my pro-skin health regimen.

Among these is the brand’s intriguing Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist. Referred to more simply as SDSM2, it isn’t just some run-of-the-mill skincare product; and it’s much more than a hydrating toner. A the name indicates, SDSM2 is enriched with a substance called Superoxide Dismutase — a naturally occurring antioxidant found in the skin that’s the body’s most essential antioxidant to fend off cell damage.

According to the NIOD scientists, “Superoxide is the main reactive oxygen species in each cell and SOD is the body's natural way of out-competing the ongoing and very damaging effect of superoxide in cells. Arguably, SOD is the most important force against oxidation in the human body.”

PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASE SACCHARIDE MIST (SDSM2)

During the month of November, which Deciem brilliantly refers to as Slowvember, the company is once again breaking the mold by discounting all of its skincare products by 23%.

The annual Slowvember sales event began two years as a way to combat the blatant consumerism of Black Friday. And I’m so excited to see the company now making a tradition of it! Three years makes it a tradition, right?


Deciem’s Slowvember is here again!

Welcome to Slowvember. A journey into a new, gentle world, after an isolated year. For the month of November, we will focus on bringing soothing experiences, creating moments of calm, and allowing space for the appreciation of small things. We hope this comfortable environment will encourage deliberate, considered purchases, allowing you to truly benefit from our 23% saving.

BYE-BYE BLACK FRIDAY. 

On the day formerly known as Black Friday, the DECIEM website and stores will pause. We will use the time to focus on connections over transactions, sharing experiences and events such as live music and workshops that encourage a comfortable pace, and celebrating the beauty in slowing down.

DOING THE RIGHT THING.

We believe that beauty is between us and the world around us. That’s why we’re continuously working to have a positive impact on people, animals, and the planet. You can read more about how we respect small and big things here.


FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER

GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!

CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT


Last year, I celebrated Slowvember with a feature on oily skin and The Ordinary’s curated assortment of solutions for oily skin types — The Balance Set. The brand had just introduced this first complete collection of skin-health basics. The Balance Set contains four daily skincare essentials for promoting and maintaining optimal skin health — and all for $29. Psst…during Slowvember, The Balance Set is just $23.33!

THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – SOME OF THE BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY

What’s in The Ordinary’s “The Balance Set”?

Well, The Balance Set includes two of my all-time faves from The Ordinary — the pore-clearing Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the ooey-gooey skin-licious Squalane Cleanser, one of the best cleansers for dry skin. Come to think of it, with the texture of a cleansing balm, it’s a perfectly legitimate cleanser for all skin types — including oily skin, combination skin and especially sensitive skin.

Rounding out the collection are the super-messy-but-worth-it Salicylic Acid 2% Masque and The Ordinary’s only conventional cream moisturizer, Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA.

The Balance Set is the perfect starter kit for those wanting to discover what The Ordinary is all about. And, it’s perfect, too, for travel or for trying something new at an even more affordable price. $23.33 for a complete skincare regimen is a steal!

This year, the brand offers three additional sets, among them is The Daily Set — a trio of bestsellers that includes Squalane Cleanser, the super popular Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 and Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA.

You can check out all four sets here.

For Slowvember 2021, I thought it would be cool to feature a few of my favorites from both The Ordinary and NIOD — as part of my “seasonal skincare transitioning” articles, which I kicked off a few weeks ago with a two-part series titled, Moisturizers I Love That Make Me Excited For Cold Weather.

SEASONAL SKINCARE: MOISTURIZERS I LOVE THAT MAKE ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER

This year’s Slowvember picks include two products from The Ordinary — the Squalane Cleanser and the 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane, a personal fave dry facial oil.

From NIOD, I featured three of my favorites. The brand’s Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC2) is one of the best Hyaluronic Acid serums I’ve ever come across. I’ve probably been through two dozen bottles of it over the years!

Also in the mix is one of the most unusual products in the NIOD catalogue, the brand’s Hydration Vaccine (HV). It’s weird, but once you understand it, you appreciate it. And rounding out this year’s Slowvember picks is NIOD’s wildly intriguing, peptide-powered mask-serum hybrid, Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1 % (CAIL).

Let’s take a look at one of my Slowvember picks that hydrates, moisturizers and plumps my skin — and actually gets me excited for colder weather…


FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER

GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!

CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT


NIOD | Hydration Vaccine

Not so long ago, Hydration Vaccine from Deciem’s NIOD brand upturned how I think about moisturizing and hydrating my skin. For years in skincare marketing at Kiehl’s I thought of moisture and hydration as essentially the same thing. They are not. And understanding their differences goes a long way toward advancing the health of your skin.

NIOD’s Hydration Vaccine relies on the concept of preventing loss of water and moisture in skin, referred to as trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL.


What Is Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and How Do I Stop Transepidermal Water Loss?

There’s an excellent article on the health website Skin Better titled, What Is Transepidermal Water Loss and Why Is it Important? available here. In the piece, the author describes TEWL as follows:

“The skin is comprised of three primary layers: the epidermis, the outermost layer; the dermis or middle layer; and the hypodermis, the undermost layer. When water passes from the dermis through the epidermis and evaporates from the skin’s surface, this is known as transepidermal water loss (International Journal of Pharmaceutics).

While TEWL is a process that your skin naturally regulates, certain factors that can damage the skin’s barrier function can also affect TEWL levels. Circumstances such as injury, low-humidity weather conditions and topically applied products that dry out the skin can impact TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients.

Transepidermal water loss can contribute to a variety of dry skin conditions, and although it is a natural process, there are ways that you can help your skin stay moisturized and hydrated. Hydration refers to the water content of the skin, whereas moisturization is the skin’s ability to retain those water molecules. Therefore, your skin needs both elements to maintain desirable levels of TEWL.

To achieve this, combine humectant and occlusive skincare ingredients. Humectants help to draw moisture to the epidermis, either from the air if it is humid enough, or from the underlying dermis in low-humidity conditions. Because water content that is drawn from the dermis can be lost through TEWL, it’s important to combine the use of humectants with occlusives. Together, these ingredients create a reservoir of moisture in the epidermis and act as a barrier on the skin to help prevent TEWL by sealing in that moisture. The occlusive agents simultaneously keep pollutants, toxins and harmful bacteria out (Skin Therapy Letter).”


BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE - BEST HYALURONIC ACID SERUM, BEST PEPTIDE SERUM


FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER

GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!

CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT


I think of Hydration Vaccine as a skin sealant. By sealing and holding water in the skin, you keep your skin hydrated longer; and as a consequence, you prevent dehydration and maintain the health of your skin at a higher level.

A good hydrating toner will, of course, hydrate your skin, but even the best hydrating toners cannot prevent dehydration — particularly during the low-humidity months of the year. One of my favorite toners is NIOD’s Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist (SDSM2). You can catch my product review of SDSM2 here.

PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASE SACCHARIDE MIST (SDSM2) - BEST HYDRATING TONER

You know what NIOD’s Hydration Vaccine reminds me of? A sleeping mask! While it's directed by Deciem for use as part of both an AM and PM skincare regimen, Hydration Vaccine functions exactly like an overnight sleeping mask is intended to work. That is, it relies on occlusive technology to seal your skin and prevent loss of water and moisture.

A few years back, you may have noticed this whole new category of skincare products coming into play that were being marketed as “sleeping masks” or “overnight masks”. For a while, it looked like just another trendy marketing gimmick. As they began to proliferate, retailers like Sephora made a big push into the category and suddenly I had sleeping masks in my nightly routine in fall and winter.

I didn’t quite understand their purpose at first, then it hit me. Occlusion! Last winter, a skincare trend called slugging really took off. Again, as with sleeping masks, slugging requires occlusive products that lock moisture in the skin. (If you’re curious, check out my article on slugging here.)

MY #SLUGGING ESSENTIALS: SKINFIX 911 OINTMENT AND SKINNIES WATERLESS SUNGEL SPF 30 - BEST SLUGGING CREAM


What Does Occlusive Mean and Are Occlusives Bad for Skin?

Occlusive? What the heck does that even mean? Well, “to occlude” means to close, plug, block — as in the passage or flow of something. It comes from the Latin “occlūdere : to shut up, close up, equivalent to oc- oc- + -clūdere, combining form of claudere to close.”

So, skincare that is occlusive blocks, or occludes, the escape of water or hydration through the skin barrier, thus preventing trans-epidermal water loss, or TEWL.

I found an insightful piece on the Good Housekeeping website titled, What You Need to Know About Occlusives in Skincare.

From body lotions and face moisturizers to lip balms and everything in between, a quick scan of skincare products that pass through the Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty Lab shows it's hard to find a skin hydrator that's formulated without the category of ingredient known as "occlusives." 

You won't find these workhorse ingredients leading any trends (they've been around a long time), but they remain an invaluable part of any healthy skincare routine and dermatologist practices. Occlusives have proven to be a godsend for dry, dehydrated skin, and help with skin agingsun damage, and wound healing. 

So what exactly is an occlusive in skincare?

The medical definition: "Occlusives are moisturizing agents that work by forming a protective layer on the surface of your skin and create a barrier to prevent moisture loss," explains Olay Scientific Communications Senior Director Frauke Neuser Ph.D.

By mimicking the skin's natural lipid barrier, they also have protective properties. "Occlusive ingredients help protect the skin from external irritants, including friction, cold wind, and pollen," she explains. Some occlusives, such as petrolatum and shea butter (yes, shea butter is a good occlusive!), are multitaskers that can smooth and soften skin, acting as emollients, another type of moisturizing agent.


Hydration Vaccine has a unique silicone-rich texture. It takes a bit of getting used to as it’s like nothing you’ve ever applied to your skin before. In order to appreciate it, you need to get past the fear that heavy silicones are going to clog your pores and lead to irritation and breakouts.

In fact, in the years since I first experienced it, I’ve noticed zero sign of that when using Hydration Vaccine. I've actually grown to love its weird texture. Likely as a consequence of the fact that I really get it and appreciate what it’s doing for my skin — especially in the cold. When I use Hydration Vaccine, my skin simply feels healthier, more hydrated, plumper and, of course, less dry. In the cold winter months in NYC, this stuff is a godsend.

NIOD’s directions for Hydration Vaccine read: “Apply a small amount all over face in the AM and PM after the application of serums (ideally NIOD CAIS and MMHC) but before the application of any other creams and/or sunscreen formulations.”

I've actually adjusted that slightly on days when the air is colder and dryer by applying a lighter moisturizer before I apply HV. Again, at first, I was concerned it may be going too far and lead to breakouts. It does not.

Hey, I get that Hydration Vaccine isn't for everyone. Quite a few people are averse to silicones for one reason or another. I don't happen to be one of them. But NIOD isn’t the brand for everyone; it’s the brand for skincare nerds.

As with nearly all of NIOD’s formulas, Hydration Vaccine is about real science. It’s not for skincare beginners or casual skincare users. If you’re serious about your skin care and fully understand the link between skin health and hydration, I recommend giving NIOD’s Hydration Vaccine a try! 

SHOP THE BLOG: For the month of November only, purchase the NIOD Hydration Vaccine (HV) for $42.35 (reg. $55) here.



FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH OF NOVEMBER

GET 23% OFF ALL SKINCARE FROM DECIEM’S BRANDS INCLUDING THE ORDINARY, NIOD AND MORE!

CLICK HERE TO SHOP DECIEM’S SLOWVEMBER EVENT


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW

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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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THE ORDINARY BALANCE SET – BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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BRANDS I LOVE: NIOD HIGH-SCIENCE SKINCARE

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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SUMMER 2020 MOISTURIZERS PART I

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


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The Ingredient List of The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC2):

Aqua (Water) solv, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract h, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Hyaluronic Acid sii|h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Sodium Butyroyl Hyaluronate h, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate h, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate h, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate cci, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides h, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum h|vc, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract aox|h, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum emo|vc, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 cci, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract so|aox|amic, Salvia Sclarea Extract so, Arginine sii, Aspartic Acid sii, Glycine sii, Alanine sii, Serine sii, Valine sii, Isoleucine sii, Proline sii, Threonine sii, Histidine sii|h, Phenylalanine sii, Pca sii|h, Sodium Pca sii|h 0 0, Betaine h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside aox|so, Gallyl Glucoside aox|so, Algae Extract emo|h, Sodium Salicylate pres, Lecithin emo|emu, Polyglucuronic Acid h, Xanthan Gum vc, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Sclerotium Gum vc, Pullulan, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose vc, Propanediol solv|h, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Citric Acid buff, Magnesium Chloride vc, Silica vc, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Propyl Gallate aox|perf, Dehydroacetic Acid pres, Benzyl Alcohol pres|perf|solv|vc, Potassium Sorbate pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Phenoxyethanol pres
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Hydration Vaccine (HV):


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1 % (CAIL):

* Palmitoyl-GHK-Cu is a version of GHK-Cu with a Palmitoyl group attached to its structure to enhance its lipophilic properties for improved skin affinity.
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM VITAMIN C FACE OIL – BEST FACIAL OIL WITH VITAMIN C, BEST BRIGHTENING FACIAL OIL FOR DRY SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: NATURIUM VITAMIN C FACE OIL – BEST FACIAL OIL WITH VITAMIN C, BEST BRIGHTENING FACIAL OIL FOR DRY SKIN

PRODUCT REVIEW: BIOGRAPHY GOLDEN RAY GLOW DROPS – BEST FACIAL OIL FOR DRY SKIN, BEST ANTIOXIDANT FACE OIL

PRODUCT REVIEW: BIOGRAPHY GOLDEN RAY GLOW DROPS – BEST FACIAL OIL FOR DRY SKIN, BEST ANTIOXIDANT FACE OIL