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Welcome to Skincarma.

These are the musings of Carmine Montalto, NYC-based writer, skincare junkie and brand guru. The former copywriter at Kiehl’s, Carmine has more than 25 years of experience in beauty. Through the Skincarma Blog, he puts all of his product wisdom to work demystifying the ever-evolving world of skin care. 

You can change your skin’s destiny.™

PRODUCT REVIEW: THE ORDINARY 100% PLANT-DERIVED HEMI-SQUALANE - BEST FACIAL OIL FOR DRY SKIN, BEST DRY OIL

THE ORDINARY 100% PLANT-DERIVED HEMI-SQUALANE

This product review was originally part of my blog article titled, Seasonal Skincare Transitioning: The Best Products from The Ordinary and NIOD that Get Me Excited for Cold Weather! You can catch the full piece here.

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I’m a long-time fan of both Deciem’s The Ordinary and NIOD brands.

Notably, democratically-priced The Ordinary made great skincare accessible to everyone, literally revolutionizing skin care.

The Ordinary was one of the first brands that offered a broad range of single-note products — that is, products focused on one primary active ingredient. In doing so, they met the curiosity of consumers to learn about ingredients and how they benefit their skin.

The Ordinary empowers us to weed through the chaos and confusion created by big beauty marketers and truly focus on skin’s unique needs. And to me, The Ordinary is about making optimal skin health possible for everyone.

I first began my not-so-ordinary journey with the brand about five years ago, just as The Ordinary was bursting onto the skincare scene. A few early favorites were the Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% serum, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder. In fact, that entirely basic pure Vitamin C powder was the first-ever Skincarma Product of the Year, in 2018!

THE SKINCARMA PRODUCT OF THE YEAR : THE ORDINARY 100% L-ASCORBIC ACID POWDER

And, over the years I’ve become somewhat of a superfan of Deciem’s high-science NIOD brand. With unique, potent skincare and wildy nerdy names, several of the brand’s products are regular staples in my pro-skin health regimen.

Among these is the brand’s intriguing Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist. Referred to more simply as SDSM2, it isn’t just some run-of-the-mill skincare product; and it’s much more than a hydrating toner. A the name indicates, SDSM2 is enriched with a substance called Superoxide Dismutase — a naturally occurring antioxidant found in the skin that’s the body’s most essential antioxidant to fend off cell damage.

According to the NIOD scientists, “Superoxide is the main reactive oxygen species in each cell and SOD is the body's natural way of out-competing the ongoing and very damaging effect of superoxide in cells. Arguably, SOD is the most important force against oxidation in the human body.”

PRODUCT REVIEW: NIOD SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASE SACCHARIDE MIST (SDSM2)

During the month of November, which Deciem brilliantly refers to as Slowvember, the company is once again breaking the mold by discounting all of its skincare products by 23%.

The annual Slowvember sales event began two years as a way to combat the blatant consumerism of Black Friday. And I’m so excited to see the company now making a tradition of it! Three years makes it a tradition, right?


Deciem’s Slowvember is here again!

Welcome to Slowvember. A journey into a new, gentle world, after an isolated year. For the month of November, we will focus on bringing soothing experiences, creating moments of calm, and allowing space for the appreciation of small things. We hope this comfortable environment will encourage deliberate, considered purchases, allowing you to truly benefit from our 23% saving.

BYE-BYE BLACK FRIDAY. 

On the day formerly known as Black Friday, the DECIEM website and stores will pause. We will use the time to focus on connections over transactions, sharing experiences and events such as live music and workshops that encourage a comfortable pace, and celebrating the beauty in slowing down.

DOING THE RIGHT THING.

We believe that beauty is between us and the world around us. That’s why we’re continuously working to have a positive impact on people, animals, and the planet. You can read more about how we respect small and big things here.


Last year, I celebrated Slowvember with a feature on oily skin and The Ordinary’s curated assortment of solutions for oily skin types — The Balance Set. The brand had just introduced this first complete collection of skin-health basics. The Balance Set contains four daily skincare essentials for promoting and maintaining optimal skin health — and all for $29. Psst…during Slowvember, The Balance Set is just $23.33!

THE ORDINARY'S THE BALANCE SET – SOME OF THE BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY


What’s in The Ordinary’s “The Balance Set”?

Well, The Balance Set includes two of my all-time faves from The Ordinary — the pore-clearing Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and the ooey-gooey skin-licious Squalane Cleanser, one of the best cleansers for dry skin. Come to think of it, with the texture of a cleansing balm, it’s a perfectly legitimate cleanser for all skin types — including oily skin, combination skin and especially sensitive skin.

Rounding out the collection are the super-messy-but-worth-it Salicylic Acid 2% Masque and The Ordinary’s only conventional cream moisturizer, Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA.

The Balance Set is the perfect starter kit for those wanting to discover what The Ordinary is all about. And, it’s perfect, too, for travel or for trying something new at an even more affordable price. $23.33 for a complete skincare regimen is a steal!

This year, the brand offers three additional sets, among them is The Daily Set — a trio of bestsellers that includes Squalane Cleanser, the super popular Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 and Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA.

You can check out all four sets here.

For Slowvember 2021, I thought it would be cool to feature a few of my favorites from both The Ordinary and NIOD — as part of my “seasonal skincare transitioning” articles, which I kicked off a few weeks ago with a two-part series titled, Moisturizers I Love That Make Me Excited For Cold Weather.

SEASONAL SKINCARE: MOISTURIZERS I LOVE THAT MAKE ME EXCITED FOR COLD WEATHER

This year’s Slowvember picks include two products from The Ordinary — the Squalane Cleanser and the 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane, a personal fave dry facial oil.

From NIOD, I featured three of my favorites. The brand’s Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC2) is one of the best Hyaluronic Acid serums I’ve ever come across. I’ve probably been through two dozen bottles of it over the years!

Also in the mix is one of the most unusual products in the NIOD catalogue, the brand’s Hydration Vaccine (HV). It’s weird, but once you understand it, you appreciate it. And rounding out this year’s Slowvember picks is NIOD’s wildly intriguing, peptide-powered mask-serum hybrid, Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1 % (CAIL).

Let’s take a look at one of my Slowvember picks that hydrates, moisturizers and plumps my skin — and actually gets me excited for colder weather…


The Ordinary | 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane

Nobody does Squalane like The Ordinary. The chemists at Deciem use it in multiple products including, of course the Squalane Cleanser — one of the best facial cleansers for dry skin and all skin types in the cold.

In fact, Squalane is one of my favorite non-fragrant plant oils, too. I love its rich, emollient texture, making it ideal for treating dry or very dry skin. What makes Squalane such a remarkably effective, replenishing oil is the fact that it’s bio-compatible; the skin recognizes it as a friendly substance, allowing it to work to its full potential. Remember, the skin barrier’s role is to keep out foreign substances. Squalane is an ally.

IMO, Squalane Oil is one of the better plant oils — along with Argan Oil, Almond Oil and Jojoba Oil — with excellent moisturizing and replenishing benefits for the skin.

Classified as one of the “best” ingredients for the skin by Paula Begoun and her team of researchers, Squalane is “the saturated portion of emollient ingredient squalene, which is a natural component of human skin sebum (oil). It is a wonderfully moisturizing ingredient as well as being a source of replenishing fatty acids and antioxidants.”


WATCH MY VIDEO REVIEW OF

THE ORDINARY BALANCE SET – BEST PRODUCTS FROM THE ORDINARY

ON MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL HERE


What Is Squalane and What Does Squalane Do for the Skin?

There’s an excellent article crafted by the experts on the Paula’s Choice Research Team titled, What is Squalane Oil and How Does it Benefit Skin? The piece delves into what makes Squalane unique — and why it’s so uniquely beneficial to the skin.

What is Squalane Oil?

Squalane oil is an emollient, a type of ingredient that works very much like skin’s own oil (sebum) to prevent moisture loss. Chemically, it’s a hydrocarbon, a group of ingredients made of only hydrogen and carbon. Common skin-friendly hydrocarbons for skin include petrolatum and mineral oil; squalane is the primary one from the plant world, so it’s a good alternative if you want to avoid petrochemicals.

A unique aspect of squalane is that it’s a modified form of squalene, one of the key components in our sebum (1, 2). This fact makes squalane an ingredient skin instantly recognizes and knows how to use, but there’s more to the story than simply being an emollient.

Some people wonder if squalane is a vegan ingredient; traditionally, the squalene from which it’s created was derived from shark liver oil. Today, the majority of skin care brands using squalane are choosing a plant-derived, sustainable source. It occurs naturally in olive, wheat bran, rice bran, and amaranth oils (1, 3). Paula’s Choice uses olive-derived vegan squalane. It can also be produced via biotechnology from the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisae, where it’s often referred to as sugar derived.

If you’re curious, you can read the entire piece here.


The one drawback to Squalane is that it can feel too rich, too heavy on the skin — and isn’t an ideal oil for oilier skin types, or on warmer days. I wouldn’t be caught dead applying just about any Squalane-rich facial oil in July. Which is why I love The Ordinary’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane!

“Hemi-Squalane” is similar to Squalane but with a lower molecular weight so the oil is not as heavy or greasy on the skin. In fact, it’s much lighter than standard Squalane with a consistency that’s barely thicker that water.

The brand’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane is what’s termed a “dry oil,” meaning it doesn’t leave a greasy feel and is absorbed almost immediately by the skin.


What Is a Dry Oil and What Is the Difference between Oil and Dry Oil? 

In terms of texture, think of a dry oil as somewhere between an oily serum and a conventional facial oil. There’s an excellent piece on the Healthline website about dry oils titled, What Is a Dry Oil?

Here is an excerpt…

When you first hear the term “dry oil,” you might picture an oil that’s been boiled down to a powder. But it actually doesn’t refer to the oil’s texture. Instead, it describes the way the oil acts when it comes into contact with your skin.

Any oil that your skin absorbs quickly can be referred to as a dry oil. Oils that leave a residue on your skin, on the other hand, are often called wet oils. 

Most dry oils are made from vegetables, herbs, or seeds that contain polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic acid. 

They’re typically used as lightweight moisturizers for your hair, skin, or nails. Some common types of dry oils include:

In this article, we’ll dive into the potential benefits of these oils and look at situations when using them might be a better choice than using a wet oil. 

What are the benefits of using a dry oil?

Dry oils offer the same moisturizing benefits as wet oils, without leaving a sticky residue on your skin or hair. Many people prefer dry oils because they absorb into your skin within seconds of application. 

Some potential benefits of a dry oil include:

  • Moisturizes skin. Most dry oils, such as sunflower and safflower, contain linoleic acid. This fatty acid may keep your skin moisturized by helping it maintain its water permeability barrier.

  • Increases collagen production. A 2013 study performed on rats found that applying avocado oil to skin may increase the production of collagen (collagen synthesis) and decrease inflammation.

  • Improves dry or cracked skin. A 2011 studyTrusted Source shows that applying avocado oil is an excellent way to moisturize dry, damaged, or chapped skin.

  • Helps fight signs of aging. Research on rats suggests that sesame oil’s high number of antioxidants might help reduce oxidative stress of the skin. In theory, this could help protect your skin from premature aging.

  • Reduces sun damage. Rosehip oil contains large amounts of antioxidants that may protect your skin from damage caused by the sun’s ultraviolet rays.

  • Promote skin barrier repair. Research has found that the linoleic acid in sunflower oil may help repair the skin barrier and maintain the skin’s integrity.

  • Helps manage eczema. The moisturizing properties of dry oils might help manage dry and itchy skin caused by eczema.


PRODUCT REVIEW: THE ORDINARY CAFFEINE SOLUTION 5% + EGCG – THE BEST EYE CREAM FOR PUFFINESS

In classic Ordinary fashion, the brand’s 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane literally contains just a single ingredient — C13-16 Isoparaffin, or Hemi-Squalane.

It’s defined by Deciem as a “non-polar hydrocarbon that is produced from the fermentation of sugar-based feedstock” — such as sugar cane and sugar beets. And, you know I love a good fermented active!

The Hemi-Squalane facial oil is one of the best face oils for dry skin. It’s superbly spreadable on the skin, leaves no oily film, and is even an excellent treatment for frizzy hair.

SHOP THE BLOG: For the month of November only, purchase The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane for $3.04 (reg. $3.95) here.




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The Ingredient List of The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Hemi-Squalane:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser:

Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC2):

Aqua (Water) solv, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract h, Glycerin sii|h 0 0, Hyaluronic Acid sii|h, Sodium Hyaluronate sii|h 0 0, Sodium Butyroyl Hyaluronate h, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer sii|aox|h, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate h, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate h, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate cci, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides h, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum h|vc, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract aox|h, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum emo|vc, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 cci, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract so|aox|amic, Salvia Sclarea Extract so, Arginine sii, Aspartic Acid sii, Glycine sii, Alanine sii, Serine sii, Valine sii, Isoleucine sii, Proline sii, Threonine sii, Histidine sii|h, Phenylalanine sii, Pca sii|h, Sodium Pca sii|h 0 0, Betaine h, Sodium Lactate buff|h, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside aox|so, Gallyl Glucoside aox|so, Algae Extract emo|h, Sodium Salicylate pres, Lecithin emo|emu, Polyglucuronic Acid h, Xanthan Gum vc, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate chel, Sclerotium Gum vc, Pullulan, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose vc, Propanediol solv|h, Pentylene Glycol solv|h, Dimethyl Isosorbide solv|vc, Citric Acid buff, Magnesium Chloride vc, Silica vc, Polysorbate 20 emu|surf 0 0, Ethoxydiglycol solv|h|perf 0 0, Propyl Gallate aox|perf, Dehydroacetic Acid pres, Benzyl Alcohol pres|perf|solv|vc, Potassium Sorbate pres, Sodium Benzoate pres, Ethylhexylglycerin pres, 1,2-Hexanediol solv, Caprylyl Glycol h|emo, Phenoxyethanol pres
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Hydration Vaccine (HV):


The Ingredient List of the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1 % (CAIL):

* Palmitoyl-GHK-Cu is a version of GHK-Cu with a Palmitoyl group attached to its structure to enhance its lipophilic properties for improved skin affinity.
Hover the mouse over an ingredient for short explanation. Read more on INCIDecoder.

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